2020 Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc, Les Cloux, Domaine Rollin Père & Fils, Burgundy
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (January 2022)
About this WINE
This is a fourth-generation domaine, Raymond Rollin having been joined by his son Maurice in 1955, followed by Rémi from 1976 and Simon from 2003. The vineyard holdings stretch as far as neighbouring Aloxe, Savigny and Chorey, but the core of the domaine is in Pernand-Vergelesses including white premier cru Sous Frétille and reds Vergelesses, Fichots and Ile de Vergelesses. There is also 0.42 hectare of Corton-Charlemagne. This is a sound source of long-lived wines in both colours.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
Pernand-Vergelesses is a beautiful, small village tucked away behind the hill of Corton. Coming from Beaune, you have the Vergelesses and excellent Ile des Vergelesses vineyards on your left, facing due east, and the Corton-Charlemagne vineyards on the right, facing south-west. The red wines of Pernand (60 percent of production), excepting the two Vergelesses vineyards, can be on the austere side while the whites are racy and mineral.
Pernand-Vergelesses is an excellent source for fine Burgundy at a relatively affordable price. Jadot have registered their own name, Le Clos de la Croix de Pierre (The Stone Cross), in a vineyard which is shown on the maps as En Caradeux, facing the mighty hill of Corton. The lower part of the slope is an excellent site for Pinot Noir, while whites are grown on lighter soils higher up.
- 138 hectares of village Pernand-Vergelesses and 57 hectares of Premier Cru
- Recommended producers: Chandon de Briailles, Sylvain Loichet, Louis Jadot
Chardonnay is the "Big Daddy" of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world. It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
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Warmer but well sited, this 1.5-hectare vineyard sits north of the Hill of Corton, facing south-east but protected against the wind from the combe on a steep slope. This has seen 15% new oak, with one-third in larger barrels and the rest in standard 228-litre. It has a creamy texture around the hazelnut and lime flavours. Drink 2023-2030.
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