2020 Wild Soul, Domaine Julien Sunier, Beaujolais
Critics reviews
The 2020 Beaujolais-Lantignié Wild Soul wafts from the glass with aromas of red berries, spices, peonies and sweet soil tones. Medium-bodied, lively and supple, with melting tannins and a natural profile that lives up to its name, it concludes with a sapid finish. It's a blend of purchased grapes and declassified Régnié and was matured in foudre.
Drink 2021 - 2023
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (Aug 2021)
Light and juicy with plenty of wild-strawberry character, but also quite funky, this Beaujolais should appeal to natural-wine fans. However, this is no flash in the pan, rather it builds on the palate and the finish is really long and energetic. Drink now.
James Suckling, jamessuckling.com (Mar 2022)
About this WINE
Domaine Julien Sunier
Born in Dijon to a non-winemaking family, Julien Sunier decided in his teens to pursue a career in wine. His interest was fostered by Christophe Roumier, a friend of his parents. After studying oenology and viticulture at university, Julien did work experience with Roumier and with Jasper Morris MW (the leading Burgundy specialist), in Jasper’s days running Morris & Verdin.
Julien settled in Beaujolais to work for the large Boisset group, but always intended to establish his own domaine. In 2007 his purchased two hectares in Fleurie, which he farmed organically from the outset. Today his domaine extends to a little over five hectares – a small but perfectly formed property, with holdings in Fleurie, Régnié and Morgon. As well as wines from the crus, he makes a fabulous Beaujolais-Villages – Wild Soul – from bought-in grapes, grown in Lantignié.
Julien’s approach in the winery is hands-off: he uses only natural yeast, minimal SO2 and rarely filters his wines, which are characterised by scintillating floral aromatics, great freshness, and a sense of place and energy. He is now well-established as one of the region’s star producers, part of a wave of talented, ambitious young winemakers (many of those dedicated to organic viticulture) who are today redefining how Beaujolais is perceived.
Gamay
A French variety planted predominately in Beaujolais where it is the grape behind everything from light and often acidic Beaujolais Nouveau through to the more serious and well-structured wines from the 10 cru villages. It takes its name from a hamlet just outside Chassagne-Montrachet and was at one stage widely planted on the Côte d`Or. However it was gradually phased out due to its poor yield and supposed poor quality of its wines.
The majority of Gamay wines in Beaujolais are labelled as Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages and are deliciously juicy, easy drinking, gulpable wines. Of more interest are the Cru wines from the 10 villages in the north of the region where the soil is predominantly granitic schist and where the vines are planted on gently undulating slopes. These can be well-structured, intensely perfumed wines, redolent of ripe black fruits and, while delicious young, will reward medium term cellaring.
Gamay is also grown in the Touraine region of the Loire where it produces soft, well-balanced, gluggable wines for drinking young.
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Description
The Wild Soul is a fresh, pure and charming wine for everyday drinking. The wine is crafted from a mix of purchased but organically-farmed grapes from the village of Lantignié – widely considered to be the 11th Beaujolais Cru village – and declassified fruit from Julien’s Sunier’s own vines in Régnié. Like all of Julien’s wines, it is hugely expressive and evolves in the glass. Light on its feet, it is packed with bright red berry fruits, peonies, violets, and a dash of pepper. Drink now – 2023.
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Aug 2022)
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