Bründlmayer’s 2021 Riesling Terrassen offers a clear, intense, pure, and elegant bouquet of perfectly ripe and healthy Riesling berries intertwined with finely mineral and saline notes of crushed stones. Fruity, round and mouth-filling on the palate, this is a medium to full-bodied, very elegant and aromatic dry Riesling characterised by the poor rocky soils (gneiss/mica schist and perm sandstone) as well as, on the lower terraces, a layer of loess and clay as well, based on the particular climate.
The terraced vineyards are located at an altitude of between 200 and 300 meters above sea level at the intersection of the Danube Valley and the Kamptal. The good daytime warming produces ripeness and a certain fullness of the grapes, while the suction effect of the Kamptal moves the cool air of the Waldviertel into the vineyards in the evening and at night, preserving freshness and fruit.
This assemblage’s freshest and finest grapes come from the high-altitude vineyards, while the harvest from the lower terraces gives the wine some body. The 2021 is clear, refined and lush, very well balanced and crystalline in its fine and saline acidity that carries this excellent Riesling to a long, remarkably intense and stimulating finish. This is most probably the finest Terrassen Riesling I have had from Bründlmayer in a decade.
Drink 2022 - 2038
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (December 2022)
This blend of grapes from organically farmed terraced sites in the Kamptal is intended for early drinking. The nose is lightly citric with a hint of white peach. The attack is fresh and lively, the texture crisp, and there’s a trace of sweetness on the finish, but the acidity balances it. It shows the surprising weight of the fruit, given the modest amount of alcohol. Quite long.
Drink 2022 - 2025
Stephen Brook, Decanter.com (May 2022)
About this WINE
He has 57 hectares of vineyards, superbly sited high up on slopes around the wine town of Langenlois. His best site is the Heiligenstein vineyard where the rocky granite/slate soils produce Rieslings of astonishing mineral intensity, which age beautifully.
Kamptals vineyards in Lower Austria lie around the river Kamp, running north-east from the Wachau, but the region is dominated by the dramatic hill of Heiligenstein, around which the regions finest vineyards are to be found.
Without the moderation of the Danube, this is a hotter, drier region. Riesling and Grüner Veltliner are still important, although other varieties, including red, make an appearance. The wines are fleshier but more accessible than those of the Wachau, but also manage to accentuate the spicy notes to be found in these varieties.
Willi Bründlmayer was one of the first to make a name internationally, but his friend Michael Moosbrugger at Schloss Gobelsburg makes arguably the most complex wines of the region. Weingut Hiedler offers fine value for money.
Riesling's twin peaks are its intense perfume and its piercing crisp acidity which it manages to retain even at high ripeness levels.
In Germany, Riesling constitutes around 20% of total plantings, yet it is responsible for all its greatest wines. It is planted widely on well-drained, south-facing slate-rich slopes, with the greatest wines coming from the best slopes in the best villages. It produces delicate, racy, nervy and stylish wines that cover a wide spectrum of flavours from steely and bone dry with beautifully scented fruits of apples,apricots, and sometimes peaches, through to the exotically sweet flavours of the great sweet wines.
It is also an important variety in Alsace where it produces slightly earthier, weightier and fuller wines than in Germany. The dry Rieslings can be austere and steely with hints of honey while the Vendages Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles are some of the greatest sweet wines in the world.
It is thanks to the New World that Riesling is enjoying a marked renaissance. In Australia the grape has developed a formidable reputation, delivering lime-sherbet fireworks amid the continental climate of Clare Valley an hour's drive north of Adelaide, while Barossa's Eden Valley is cooler still, producing restrained stony lime examples from the elevated granitic landscape; Tasmania is fast becoming their third Riesling mine, combining cool temperatures with high UV levels to deliver stunning prototypes.
New Zealand shares a similar climate, with Riesling and Pinot Gris neck to neck in their bid to be the next big thing after Sauvignon Blanc; perfectly suited is the South Island's Central Otago, with its granitic soils and continental climate, and the pebbly Brightwater area near Nelson. While Australia's Rieslings tend to be full-bodied & dry, the Kiwis are more inclined to be lighter bodied, more ethereal and sometimes off-dry; Alsace plays Mosel if you like.