2021 Puligny-Montrachet, Champ Gain, 1er Cru, Arnaud Baillot, Burgundy

Arnaud Baillot

Domaine Arnaud Baillot is situated in the heart of the Côte d’Or, specifically in Beaune, a renowned wine-producing region in Burgundy. Arnaud Baillot and his wife Laure, the granddaughter of Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat in Chambolle-Musigny, share a deep passion for the diverse wines the Burgundy region offers.

Their collaboration has led to the creation of a remarkable range of village and premier cru Burgundy wines. Arnaud Baillot plays a hands-on role in every aspect of winemaking, from meticulously selecting the grape sources to overseeing the winemaking process and carefully choosing the type of barrels and ageing durations for each wine.

In 2017, the couple took a significant step by acquiring a small vineyard in the Côte de Beaune, marking the beginning of their venture into producing estate wines under the label Domaine Arnaud Baillot. Their winemaking philosophy revolves around respecting and showcasing the intricate terroirs of the Burgundy wine region, resulting in terroir-driven wines that truly exemplify the Burgundian character.

As they present their next vintage, it’s clear that Domaine Arnaud Baillot is committed to crafting limited-edition small-batch Burgundy crus, continuing to share their passion for and commitment to the complexity and uniqueness of the Burgundy wine region.

Puligny-Montrachet

Puligny was one of two villages (along with Chassagne) which gained permission in 1879 to hyphenate the name of its most famous vineyard, Montrachet, to its own.

The reputation of Puligny-Montrachet is based around its four Grands Crus. Montrachet labels often boast a noble, triumphant 'Le' in front of its name, lest you dare confuse it with any lesser wine. It has much to be proud of, with many considering Montrachet to be the greatest white wine in the world. At its best it has an intensity, complexity and elegance that make you wonder how such a wine could be made from mere grapes.

The luxurious and explosive Chevalier-Montrachet is not quite as deep, although it is probably the next best. Only marginally less impressive, and rather more consistent than Montrachet is the richly textured Bâtard-Montrachet (also shared with Chassagne). Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet is equally good, with the focus on honeyed finesse and exquisite balance rather than richness.

These legendary wines are supported by a host of fabulous Premier Cru vineyards capable of reaching Grand Cru quality. Brimming with flavour and intensity, Le Cailleret and Les Pucelles (which both lie across the road from Le Montrachet) are prime candidates, along with Les Demoiselles, Les Combettes and Folatières.

Sandwiched between the larger Chassagne and Meursault, Puligny produces wines that are more striking than any in the Côte d’Or, portraying a floral elegance alongside a stylish, steely concentration. They are very different to Meursault: more refined and delicate, and less rich.

Village level Puligny-Montrachet from top growers can be very good indeed, but is all too often unexciting and disappointing. Grands Crus normally need at least eight years before they can be broached, and last for 20 or more. Premiers Crus should generally be enjoyed between five and 15 years of age; village wines from three to 10 years.

In theory, you can find red Puligny-Montrachet, but it scarcely exists anymore, and is rarely worth the price tag.

Chardonnay

Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.

Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.

Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.