Beaune

One third whole-bunch vinified, for the old vines, this is dense purple, with deep raspberry fruit. The wine displays a crunchy, fresh, mineral finish, reflecting the limestone content of the soil here, with some tannins neatly framed by the fruit.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

Only six barrels were made from 1.2 hectares, which works out as only 10hl/ha. The little wine that was made went into 10 percent new oak and was bottled early. There is a gentle freshness and some delicate, light, red fruit. W hat it lacks in body it makes up for in a pleasant, frothy personality. Very pleasant and undemanding. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The domaine was created through the marriage of Jacques Rossignol of Volnay with Mado Trapet from a noted family in Gevrey-Chambertin. Their sons Nicolas and David Rossignol have managed the domaine since 1990, moving subsequently to biodynamic farming. The first experiments started in 1997 with their Chapelle- Chambertin, followed by conversion of the whole domaine in 2004. Vinification includes a small proportion of whole bunches, while the trend in recent years has been to look for an increasingly elegant expression of Pinot Noir. It’s a remarkable cellar this year, with brothers Nicolas and David radiating calm and understanding. As elsewhere, this was a very challenging vintage for them, especially in Beaune, the village Gevrey vines and Le Chambertin. Containing the mildew required an incredible amount of work by hand. Their biodynamic strategy seems to have paid off though; after a slow start to the range, the impression was of incremental qualities. Intensity, not density. Nicolas and David referred us to Nono, Love and the Soil by Gaston Roupnel, a novelist born in Gevrey.

This parcel of old vines sits alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches. It’s more powerful than the Grèves, but with a lovely purple floral character and bright cherry notes that add a touch of charm to the slightly muscular structure. The finish is refreshing and energetic. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

For Dominique, this is the best vineyard in Beaune. A wonderful combination of elegance and richness, there is an initial concentration of dense berry fruit, which segues into velvet tannins and a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. A very sensual and seductive expression of Beaune. Drink 2022-2028.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

Les Perrières is the vineyard always offered to be Meursault’s Grand Cru, if the village was to have one. De Montille refers to it as a “Grand” Premier Cru. It is the most mineral of the village’s Premiers Crus and so works very well in 2016. It’s hard to read from barrel, but there is clear grip and finesse on the palate, intense and concentrated, with no undue weight. It came under the De Montille banner in 2012. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée ’s requirements.

Made using 50 percent whole-bunch fermentation and healthy fruit this has a lovely crystal-clear purple colour with a beautiful fragrance. With dense fruit on the cusp of red and black, there’s more short-term tannins from the stems but these will integrate beautifully with the fruit. This will have a great future.

David Croix started picking here on 11th September, two days before he began at Camille Giroud. This was a much easier harvest than 2013, as there was much less hail than the previous vintage. The wines have an elegance and freshness to them that appeals enormously, and yet does not hide their impressive concentration.

Situated alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches, this is mid-purple, with very intense, concentrated fruit and a mineral crunchiness. It’s the most structured of the three Beaunes. Note the quality of the oak integration and its very long finish. Drink 2021-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The whites were picked from 28th August with a good crop for the Bourgogne Blanc, rather less in the other white vineyards. The reds – more wine than in 2014 or 2016 but far from a full crop – are superb, having been vinified with very light extraction, given the health and beauty of the raw material. While all the whites count as domaine wines, there are now two excellent cuvées of Premier Cru Beaune from purchased grapes to go alongside the domaine-owned Beaune Épenottes and the two Volnays.

Sixty-six percent whole-bunch and 25 percent new wood, the resulting wine is very dense purple. The nose is ultra-concentrated with a feeling of nutty density. Really tightly wound, the potential here is huge, with amazing density. It is the best wine that we have tasted from this vineyard. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

Medium, deep, bright purple in colour, this is quite a suave and sensual. It is lifted and perfumed, with some crunchy fruit behind - more red than black – and very good length. The terroir suits the vintage or indeed the other way round.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Winemaker and general manager, David Croix, has been grumbling that he feels he has the temperament of a grower rather than the deal-making knack of a born negoçiant, so he hasn’t found it easy to fill the cellar in 2012. We also find that tasting with him feels like being in a grower’s cellar, though Camille Giroud only owns a couple of vineyards. There are, nevertheless, one or two really exciting new wines here this year, notably the Volnay Santenots, and the whole cellar is on top form.

Explosive red fruit, from 60-year-old vines farmed organically, marries well with an attractive peppery aspect, leading to an exceptionally long finish in this Beaune Aux Cras from Maison Camille Giroud.

This comes from the upper (and better) part of the vineyard and offers a lovely expression of fully ripe raspberry fruit. Fresh, pure and delicious, this is a 2005 that will give pleasure relatively early but will also keep very well. Drink 2008-2015.

Here is a flagship wine for Bouchard, coming from the heart of the best Beaune vineyard. It has a full, deep red colour, with very intense ripe red fruit on the palate. However, the best part is the finish, which is amazingly persistent.

There is a good proportion of Les Rugiens in this cuve and it has a very seductive mouth feel with a fabulous quality of fruit up front and more structure behind. Interestingly, the richness of 2009 has tamed the tannins of Pommard.

Burgundy 2012 En Primeur - Staff Favourite
The Beaune appellation can conjure up old-style, sturdy, unforgiving Burgundy of old. In the hands of David Croix and others, it has become a much more desirable appellation. David's 2012 Grèves is always one to look out for; with its tenser, fresher, and more linear components than those beasts of old - give it 6 years min. to show its best.
Tom Cave, Fine Wine

The skins were so thick and tight that it needed nearly four weeks in the fermenting vat. It needed the extra time but is correspondingly backward now. The bouquet has shut down but suggests density. On the palate it is tense, dense and crunchy.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The average yield across the domaine this year is 25 hl/ha, well below par, but not the catastrophe which was visited on some, and these 2012s are clearly David’s best wines yet. He found them easy to vinify, though they have required some careful management in barrel because they are so concentrated and compact. The grapes were completely healthy and showed the best analytical balance one could ask for, mostly between 12.5% to 13% alcohol and ideal acidity to preserve freshness.

With a rich, fine, dense nose, this wine is relatively backward at this stage. There is a wealth of delicious, deep red fruit on the palate, with good acid balance and length of flavour. This vineyard provides excellent value.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Quantities were down a further 15% on the previous two vintages. However Nicolas Rossignol reports that there were no problems in vinification, and they have added a further refinement this year with a new state-of-theart de-stemmer, which leaves the individual berries whole as it takes them off their stems. Given the natural concentration of the fruit in 2012, there was no need to seek much extraction. Once again this domaine offers superb quality at reasonable prices.
 

A product of the absolute heart of the Grèves vineyard, this is a very complete and remarkable wine in 2010. The core of the fruit is based on rich, dark cherries, but it is the multi-layered aspect that sets it apart this year. Very intense and persistent, it is simply terrific.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Philippe Prost, long-time winemaker at Bouchard Père & Fils, is less flamboyant than his veteran opposite number at Jadot, but he still has firm opinions and he knows the detail of all his vineyard sites inside out. He clearly prefers his 2010 whites to the previous vintage, though we rather liked those too, while the fresh finish of the vintage has brought his excellent 2010 reds to life.

Bright purple, with a fresh and spicy nose and a touch of reduction, but real weight in the background. This wine has real muscle at the back of the palate, yet is also has a very seductive texture – and is very long too. A great Beaune in the making.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Winemaker and general manager, David Croix, has been grumbling that he feels he has the temperament of a grower rather than the deal-making knack of a born negoçiant, so he hasn’t found it easy to fill the cellar in 2012. We also find that tasting with him feels like being in a grower’s cellar, though Camille Giroud only owns a couple of vineyards. There are, nevertheless, one or two really exciting new wines here this year, notably the Volnay Santenots, and the whole cellar is on top form.

This is the outstanding wine from the appellation of Beaune, made from a great site with a good proportion of 55-year-old vines. It has a beautiful, deep mid-red colour, and a very poised nose of concentrated – but not unduly powerful – fruit. Quite weighty in a good way, with plum and blueberry fruit, well-judged tannins and excellent length.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

In response to the very small concentrated berries which characterise the fruit in 2012, Philippe Prost, head winemaker, has opted for more whole bunch fermentation this year, up to 25% per cuvée. The wines are exceptionally intense, so a little leavening by the inclusion of some stems makes sense. The white wines are bursting with energy, clearly amongst the successes of the vintage.

This enclave within Les Vignes Franches is now officially a premier cru in its own right. Medium deep purple, with a fine gracious perfume, this flagship Jadot wine offers plummy fruit, fully ripe, and generous in style.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Jacques Lardire is now in charge of a new project in Oregon, after 40 years at Louis Jadot, and Frdric Barnier is fully installed in Beaune in his place. In principal, however, there are not expected to be any changes to the winemaking. Frdric describes 2012 as a superb vintage for reds with very healthy grapes, despite the difficult growing season. He notes the exceptionally concentrated fruit coupled with good acidity. He just had to take care to avoid over firm tannins. The whites were more difficult but their practice of retaining a proportion of the malic acid has been useful this year. All the whites are now bottled with DIAM corks.

Lovely purple colour and exquisitely perfumed, this elegant Beaune is delicacy personified. Silky tannins are perfectly integrated into the fruit and the aftertaste is sublime.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

 

Less hail here and better flowering from younger vines. Lovely classy pinot to this, fine and elegant, good acid balance, lovely finish to it, stylish in the extreme. Very lovely Beaune, highly recommended.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Exceptionally dense in colour, with black fruits emerging on the nose: blackberry, blackcurrant and dark red fruit too. This is lush, luxurious but stays within its structure, with fresh minerals behind. This wine is enormously complex, hugely concentrated and really pretty extraordinary. Drink 2024-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Picking began on 3rd September, not before, as the whites were not phenologically ripe earlier, and the acidity was stable. For the reds many more whole bunches have been used this vintage, given that the grapes were perfectly ripe. The reds are every bit the standard you would expect, but we were completely bowled over by the brilliance of the white wines here this year.

The Grèves end of Beaune suffered less from frost, so volumes here are not too small. This very elegant style of Grèves comes from three plots – higher, lower and mid-slope. There is wonderful initial concentration of juicy red berry fruit, before silky, supple tannins and a vibrant acidity kick in to add complexity. Lovely. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

You can really feel the microclimate here, with the position high at the top of the hill on limestone soil adding a refreshing minerality and chalky structure to accompany the bright red cherry fruit. Impressive persistence too. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The former Domaine Duchet in Beaune was bought in 2005 by American Roger Forbes and his co-investors, and entrusted to the care of David Croix, the gifted winemaker for Camille Giroud. The estate has been renamed Domaine des Croix, in honour of David and also the numerous stone crosses to be found in the vineyards. The original Beaune and Corton-Charlemagne vineyards have since been supplemented by Aloxe-Corton, Corton La Vigne au Saint and Corton Grèves. The vineyards are farmed organically. The only thing David Croix doesn’t like in 2016 is the lack of volume. He was full of praise for the quality of the vintage, explaining that the grapes were very healthy at harvest despite the difficult season, and said the aromas in the winery during fermentation were glorious. He describes the wines as “harmonious, with nothing that is out of balance”. No Bourgogne was made this year, there are tiny volumes of village wines and several of the Beaune Premiers Crus have been blended to make a single wine. In fact, only Corton-Charlemagne has achieved anything like a normal yield.

The Clos des Ursules is very much a ‘cheval de bataille’ chez Jadot. The 2014 is in short supply after the hail but the wine has fine  colour, plenty of charm to the red fruit nose, and excellent structure behind, albeit quite backward.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Beaune was one of the areas most hit by frost in 2016, although, placed towards the north of the appellation, Les Perrières fared better than some. Historically the limestone content would favour Chardonnay here but, according to Brian Sieve, warmer vintages in recent years have led to a softer, riper style of Beaune. He used one-third whole-cluster this year, scaled back from 2015. Very succulent, there is a lovely cherry and violet, perfumed lift to the finish. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.