Beaune

With a rich, fine, dense nose, this wine is relatively backward at this stage. There is a wealth of delicious, deep red fruit on the palate, with good acid balance and length of flavour. This vineyard provides excellent value.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Quantities were down a further 15% on the previous two vintages. However Nicolas Rossignol reports that there were no problems in vinification, and they have added a further refinement this year with a new state-of-theart de-stemmer, which leaves the individual berries whole as it takes them off their stems. Given the natural concentration of the fruit in 2012, there was no need to seek much extraction. Once again this domaine offers superb quality at reasonable prices.
 

One third whole-bunch vinified, for the old vines, this is dense purple, with deep raspberry fruit. The wine displays a crunchy, fresh, mineral finish, reflecting the limestone content of the soil here, with some tannins neatly framed by the fruit.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

Three barrels of this gorgeous red-purple wine were made. The nose is brilliant – perfumed and heady; the palate is one of beautiful deep red fruit, delicious and with a lovely texture, genial yet also classy. Dominique hopes to continue this vineyard in future: excellent news.

Production of the Dominique Lafon wines has now moved to large cellars at the Château de Bligny, providing much better working conditions than previously. As a result of the hail, there is unlikely to be any village Volnay or Beaune Épenottes for us to offer. However, Dominique has found an excellent source of Beaune Vignes Franches this year to make up part of the shortfall. This cuvée apart, all the vineyards are managed by the Les Héretiers du Comte Lafon viticultural team, using the same methods. Starting this year, the wines will all be bottled using Diam30 corks.

Only six barrels were made from 1.2 hectares, which works out as only 10hl/ha. The little wine that was made went into 10 percent new oak and was bottled early. There is a gentle freshness and some delicate, light, red fruit. W hat it lacks in body it makes up for in a pleasant, frothy personality. Very pleasant and undemanding. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The domaine was created through the marriage of Jacques Rossignol of Volnay with Mado Trapet from a noted family in Gevrey-Chambertin. Their sons Nicolas and David Rossignol have managed the domaine since 1990, moving subsequently to biodynamic farming. The first experiments started in 1997 with their Chapelle- Chambertin, followed by conversion of the whole domaine in 2004. Vinification includes a small proportion of whole bunches, while the trend in recent years has been to look for an increasingly elegant expression of Pinot Noir. It’s a remarkable cellar this year, with brothers Nicolas and David radiating calm and understanding. As elsewhere, this was a very challenging vintage for them, especially in Beaune, the village Gevrey vines and Le Chambertin. Containing the mildew required an incredible amount of work by hand. Their biodynamic strategy seems to have paid off though; after a slow start to the range, the impression was of incremental qualities. Intensity, not density. Nicolas and David referred us to Nono, Love and the Soil by Gaston Roupnel, a novelist born in Gevrey.

The Grèves end of Beaune suffered less from frost, so volumes here are not too small. This very elegant style of Grèves comes from three plots – higher, lower and mid-slope. There is wonderful initial concentration of juicy red berry fruit, before silky, supple tannins and a vibrant acidity kick in to add complexity. Lovely. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

This parcel of old vines sits alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches. It’s more powerful than the Grèves, but with a lovely purple floral character and bright cherry notes that add a touch of charm to the slightly muscular structure. The finish is refreshing and energetic. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

Very dense purple with vibrant, heartwarming fruit, real density of the palate, a little black fruit but more deep red, some acidity, crunchy minerals. Very well put together, a wine which should sing in the medium to long term.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Until 31st August this product is discounted by 30%*
Made using 50 percent whole-bunch fermentation and healthy fruit this has a lovely crystal-clear purple colour with a beautiful fragrance. With dense fruit on the cusp of red and black, there’s more short-term tannins from the stems but these will integrate beautifully with the fruit. This will have a great future.

David Croix started picking here on 11th September, two days before he began at Camille Giroud. This was a much easier harvest than 2013, as there was much less hail than the previous vintage. The wines have an elegance and freshness to them that appeals enormously, and yet does not hide their impressive concentration.
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From 60-year-old vines, this is vinified without stems because the style in this vineyard is already strapping enough. Much more muscled than La Vigne au Saint, there is darker fruit, it’s very mineral, with an excellent aftertaste: just what one hopes for from Corton.

David Croix started picking here on 11th September, two days before he began at Camille Giroud. This was a much easier harvest than 2013, as there was much less hail than the previous vintage. The wines have an elegance and freshness to them that appeals enormously, and yet does not hide their impressive concentration.

Very dense rich purple, this has a particularly backward nose, albeit with a sense of mineral crunch. There is undeniable weight in the mouth, leading to a powerful, gravelly finish. This will need more time in barrel and then a lot longer in bottle. Drink 2025-2040.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

David Croix has used a small percentage of whole bunches this year which is unusual for him, but he likes this approach in years with darker, riper fruit. Yields were the same as in 2012, around 25 hl/ha. He began picking his reds on 7th September, bringing the whole crop in over just four days. The Corton vineyards, both planted with 50- to 60-year-old vines, provide a fascinating contrast in style.

Fine, pure and pale in colour, the lovely fruit is overlaid by a level of barrel toast which actually works very well. There’s a beautiful intensity and it has kept a lean note all the way through, very successful. Even a touch of tannin at the back, this is very long. Drink 2020-2027
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The healthy crop was picked from 2nd September, with acceptable yields for the whites but rather low again for the reds. Vinification was adapted to suit the nature of the vintage, with less forceful punching down this year, especially at the start. The Drouhin style is compellingly elegant every year, while 2015 delivers an extra coating of velvet to the fruit.

Situated alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches, this is mid-purple, with very intense, concentrated fruit and a mineral crunchiness. It’s the most structured of the three Beaunes. Note the quality of the oak integration and its very long finish. Drink 2021-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The whites were picked from 28th August with a good crop for the Bourgogne Blanc, rather less in the other white vineyards. The reds – more wine than in 2014 or 2016 but far from a full crop – are superb, having been vinified with very light extraction, given the health and beauty of the raw material. While all the whites count as domaine wines, there are now two excellent cuvées of Premier Cru Beaune from purchased grapes to go alongside the domaine-owned Beaune Épenottes and the two Volnays.

Sixty-six percent whole-bunch and 25 percent new wood, the resulting wine is very dense purple. The nose is ultra-concentrated with a feeling of nutty density. Really tightly wound, the potential here is huge, with amazing density. It is the best wine that we have tasted from this vineyard. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

Clear, bright, fresh colour, the wine has a lovely zesty energy to the nose. This displays pure white fruit, super concentration, acid balance in exactly the right place and no sense of undue weight. Very classy. Drink 2019-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

From ancient vines, planted in 1904, this Beaune from Domaine de Bellene has rich, blackcurrant fruit, amazing length and a glorious silkiness. It is fresh at the finish, despite the evident richness of fruit. A magical, harmonious wine.

This wine, from the fabulous 2009 vintage, is only just starting out in life. The sunshine character of ’09 is such that the wines are enjoyable from the start, but will age brilliantly.

Domaine de Bellene is the private domaine of Nicolas Potel, established in Beaune since 2007. The title pays homage to the ancient pagan god Belenos, after whom Beaune takes its name.

The domaine is based in some marvellous old cellars, renovated to an ecologically admirable standard (‘Haute Qualité Environnementale’), on the Dijon road out of Beaune. The vineyards are being converted to organic farming, with some biodynamic elements and now cover 22hectares. The wines are made using a high proportion of whole bunches which helps build the structure of the wine to support the generous fruit.

This domaine was created through the marriage of Jacques Rossignol of Volnay with Mado Trapet from a noted Gevrey-Chambertin family. Their sons Nicolas and David Rossignol have managed the domaine since 1990, moving subsequently to biodynamic farming. The Rossignols continue to develop their style towards finesse, especially in the finish of their wines.

A medium to pale red with a classy fragrant bouquet, this shows the restraint of a fine wine rather than vulgar immediacy. The real class appears on the palate, with lifted red fruit notes, some orange zest, a great sense of purity and terrific persistence. Definitely a food wine.
The early growing season in 2011 was beneficial to ripening the stems, so Nicolas and David Rossignol opted to use more this year, as they also did in 2009. The wines below were made with 25% stems in general and up to 50% for the Grand Crus. This will have influenced the structure of the wines, but it does not show in the fruit profile. The Rossignols continue to develop their style towards finesse, especially in the finish of their wines and these show very good result this year.

Less hail here and better flowering from younger vines. Lovely classy pinot to this, fine and elegant, good acid balance, lovely finish to it, stylish in the extreme. Very lovely Beaune, highly recommended.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The Rossignol-Trapet  brothers have done it again - producing a beautifully perfumed Beaune wine with an almost Chambolle-like quality. Wines like this are the hidden gems of the offer.
(Stuart Rae, Cellar Plan Account Manager)

We don’t normally put this bottling in our en primeur prime selection but it is so good this year that we could not resist. The fruit is completely mouth-filling and finishes with classic mineral notes.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)

A deep bright pink-purple colour with a fresh sherbetty nose, lovely red fruit behind, while the discreet trace of acidity maintaining a thread of freshness throughout. The stony character of Les Perrières shows through.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

From ancient vines planted in 1904. The lovely mid purple colour gives way to a really sensual floral nose. Thereafter the fruit fills the mouth beautifully, with lovely structure behind, though the acidity is tamed by the fruit. There remains a touch of youthful bitterness but this is great wine.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

We were very pleased to secure a barrel of Corton at this price as it is an outstanding wine from Les Renardes and les Bressandes. The fruit absolutely fills the mouth, in sumptuous fashion, while the ripe tannins hold it all together. This is a wine built for the long term.

There is lots of energy here, with very good length and a sensual side to it. David has managed to refine the slightly firm tannins that this wine sometimes used to have and the result is impressive this year. I suggest that you buy this wine if you like the sensual touch, or the Grèves if you prefer more structure.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director David Croix has made some very striking wines in 2011. The vineyards have been improving under his care and to begin with, yields dropped as the vines acclimatised to the new regime but now they are where they should be. In the cellar, there is less intervention in the winemaking now, with shorter periods in vat and noticeably gentler extraction. A few more stems are added these days and new wood is used on around 15 to 20% of the wine. David started picking on Monday 30th August.

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A product of the absolute heart of the Grèves vineyard, this is a very complete and remarkable wine in 2010. The core of the fruit is based on rich, dark cherries, but it is the multi-layered aspect that sets it apart this year. Very intense and persistent, it is simply terrific.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Philippe Prost, long-time winemaker at Bouchard Père & Fils, is less flamboyant than his veteran opposite number at Jadot, but he still has firm opinions and he knows the detail of all his vineyard sites inside out. He clearly prefers his 2010 whites to the previous vintage, though we rather liked those too, while the fresh finish of the vintage has brought his excellent 2010 reds to life.

Lovely purple colour and exquisitely perfumed, this elegant Beaune is delicacy personified. Silky tannins are perfectly integrated into the fruit and the aftertaste is sublime.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director