Beaune

One third whole-bunch vinified, for the old vines, this is dense purple, with deep raspberry fruit. The wine displays a crunchy, fresh, mineral finish, reflecting the limestone content of the soil here, with some tannins neatly framed by the fruit.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

Only six barrels were made from 1.2 hectares, which works out as only 10hl/ha. The little wine that was made went into 10 percent new oak and was bottled early. There is a gentle freshness and some delicate, light, red fruit. W hat it lacks in body it makes up for in a pleasant, frothy personality. Very pleasant and undemanding. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The domaine was created through the marriage of Jacques Rossignol of Volnay with Mado Trapet from a noted family in Gevrey-Chambertin. Their sons Nicolas and David Rossignol have managed the domaine since 1990, moving subsequently to biodynamic farming. The first experiments started in 1997 with their Chapelle- Chambertin, followed by conversion of the whole domaine in 2004. Vinification includes a small proportion of whole bunches, while the trend in recent years has been to look for an increasingly elegant expression of Pinot Noir. It’s a remarkable cellar this year, with brothers Nicolas and David radiating calm and understanding. As elsewhere, this was a very challenging vintage for them, especially in Beaune, the village Gevrey vines and Le Chambertin. Containing the mildew required an incredible amount of work by hand. Their biodynamic strategy seems to have paid off though; after a slow start to the range, the impression was of incremental qualities. Intensity, not density. Nicolas and David referred us to Nono, Love and the Soil by Gaston Roupnel, a novelist born in Gevrey.

This parcel of old vines sits alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches. It’s more powerful than the Grèves, but with a lovely purple floral character and bright cherry notes that add a touch of charm to the slightly muscular structure. The finish is refreshing and energetic. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

Very dense purple with vibrant, heartwarming fruit, real density of the palate, a little black fruit but more deep red, some acidity, crunchy minerals. Very well put together, a wine which should sing in the medium to long term.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Les Perrières is the vineyard always offered to be Meursault’s Grand Cru, if the village was to have one. De Montille refers to it as a “Grand” Premier Cru. It is the most mineral of the village’s Premiers Crus and so works very well in 2016. It’s hard to read from barrel, but there is clear grip and finesse on the palate, intense and concentrated, with no undue weight. It came under the De Montille banner in 2012. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée ’s requirements.

The Clos des Ursules is very much a ‘cheval de bataille’ chez Jadot. The 2014 is in short supply after the hail but the wine has fine  colour, plenty of charm to the red fruit nose, and excellent structure behind, albeit quite backward.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Founded in 1859 Maison Louis Jadot has a long history of producing textbook Burgundy. In 2009, to celebrate their 150^th year, they produced a special bottling of 18 different 1er Cru Beaune vineyards. The 2012 is the second incarnation of this unique, brilliantly drinkable wine which, unusually for Burgundy, is offered in a range of bottle sizes of up to 18 litres.

A multi Climat blend from Beaune 1er cru vineyards, all of which are mentioned on the label, this is a generous, raspberry filled Beaune for mid-term drinking. Fruit forward and supple tannins, along with the freshness that is a hallmark of the vintage, the makes a delicious addition to any cellar.
Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager
 
A beautiful expression of Beaune, pure raspberry nose with a touch of that classic Beaune white pepper. 2012 has produced wines with effortless character and this is no exception, supple yet with enough freshness to really make you want to go back for more. An excellent wine and at this price the large formats look like brilliant options for those larger gatherings over the next 8-10 years.
Matt Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager

Rich, imperial purple, with a heady, juicy nose, this is quite impressive all the way through. It has a lovely mid-palate, with succulence and unexpected density for what is usually a lighter source. There’s an excellent aftertaste with fruit, tannin and acidity all in balance. Drink 2021-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Between the hail of 2012, ‘13 and ‘14 and the frost in 2016 the fabulous vintage of 2015 represents an oasis for Jean-Yves, who began to pick on 7th September. He thinks these are the best red wines of his career, and they feature a majority of whole-bunch vinification for the first time, while the whites have been progressing very well in barrel. Yields are still very low all round, but the wines are correspondingly concentrated.

From ancient vines, planted in 1904, this Beaune from Domaine de Bellene has rich, blackcurrant fruit, amazing length and a glorious silkiness. It is fresh at the finish, despite the evident richness of fruit. A magical, harmonious wine.

This wine, from the fabulous 2009 vintage, is only just starting out in life. The sunshine character of ’09 is such that the wines are enjoyable from the start, but will age brilliantly.

Domaine de Bellene is the private domaine of Nicolas Potel, established in Beaune since 2007. The title pays homage to the ancient pagan god Belenos, after whom Beaune takes its name.

The domaine is based in some marvellous old cellars, renovated to an ecologically admirable standard (‘Haute Qualité Environnementale’), on the Dijon road out of Beaune. The vineyards are being converted to organic farming, with some biodynamic elements and now cover 22hectares. The wines are made using a high proportion of whole bunches which helps build the structure of the wine to support the generous fruit.

Less hail here and better flowering from younger vines. Lovely classy pinot to this, fine and elegant, good acid balance, lovely finish to it, stylish in the extreme. Very lovely Beaune, highly recommended.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The Rossignol-Trapet  brothers have done it again - producing a beautifully perfumed Beaune wine with an almost Chambolle-like quality. Wines like this are the hidden gems of the offer.
(Stuart Rae, Cellar Plan Account Manager)

We don’t normally put this bottling in our en primeur prime selection but it is so good this year that we could not resist. The fruit is completely mouth-filling and finishes with classic mineral notes.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)

Here is a flagship wine for Bouchard, coming from the heart of the best Beaune vineyard. It has a full, deep red colour, with very intense ripe red fruit on the palate. However, the best part is the finish, which is amazingly persistent.

There is a good proportion of Les Rugiens in this cuve and it has a very seductive mouth feel with a fabulous quality of fruit up front and more structure behind. Interestingly, the richness of 2009 has tamed the tannins of Pommard.

We were very pleased to secure a barrel of Corton at this price as it is an outstanding wine from Les Renardes and les Bressandes. The fruit absolutely fills the mouth, in sumptuous fashion, while the ripe tannins hold it all together. This is a wine built for the long term.

Burgundy 2012 En Primeur - Staff Favourite
The Beaune appellation can conjure up old-style, sturdy, unforgiving Burgundy of old. In the hands of David Croix and others, it has become a much more desirable appellation. David's 2012 Grèves is always one to look out for; with its tenser, fresher, and more linear components than those beasts of old - give it 6 years min. to show its best.
Tom Cave, Fine Wine

The skins were so thick and tight that it needed nearly four weeks in the fermenting vat. It needed the extra time but is correspondingly backward now. The bouquet has shut down but suggests density. On the palate it is tense, dense and crunchy.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The average yield across the domaine this year is 25 hl/ha, well below par, but not the catastrophe which was visited on some, and these 2012s are clearly David’s best wines yet. He found them easy to vinify, though they have required some careful management in barrel because they are so concentrated and compact. The grapes were completely healthy and showed the best analytical balance one could ask for, mostly between 12.5% to 13% alcohol and ideal acidity to preserve freshness.

Bright purple, with a fresh and spicy nose and a touch of reduction, but real weight in the background. This wine has real muscle at the back of the palate, yet is also has a very seductive texture – and is very long too. A great Beaune in the making.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Winemaker and general manager, David Croix, has been grumbling that he feels he has the temperament of a grower rather than the deal-making knack of a born negoçiant, so he hasn’t found it easy to fill the cellar in 2012. We also find that tasting with him feels like being in a grower’s cellar, though Camille Giroud only owns a couple of vineyards. There are, nevertheless, one or two really exciting new wines here this year, notably the Volnay Santenots, and the whole cellar is on top form.

There is lots of energy here, with very good length and a sensual side to it. David has managed to refine the slightly firm tannins that this wine sometimes used to have and the result is impressive this year. I suggest that you buy this wine if you like the sensual touch, or the Grèves if you prefer more structure.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

David Croix has made some very striking wines in 2011. The vineyards have been improving under his care and to begin with, yields dropped as the vines acclimatised to the new regime but now they are where they should be. In the cellar, there is less intervention in the winemaking now, with shorter periods in vat and noticeably gentler extraction. A few more stems are added these days and new wood is used on around 15 to 20% of the wine. David started picking on Monday 30th August.

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Many people rate this as the finest Premier Cru in Beaune and it is easy to understand why. Brilliant fruit jumps from the glass to the nose and demonstrates the exceptional class of this terroir. With significant structure behind, beautiful fruit returns at the finish. It is clearly a wine to wait for.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

Most Exciting Value Red
Made from very old vines, in this vintage Nicolas Potel’s Beaune Grèves is packed with typical silky charm and approachability. It offers a great deal of complexity and concentration with very impressive rich, red fruit aromas and lovely ripe, melting tannins. This is most definitely the Beaune to buy in this vintage.
(David Jones, Fine Wine Sales Advisor)

From ancient vines planted in 1904, this Beaune Grèves wine has a really impressive depth of fruit tucked into a smart overcoat of well-judged oak. This has more power than Potel’s Savignys, while retaining the finesse; very fine.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer)

Exceptionally dense in colour, with black fruits emerging on the nose: blackberry, blackcurrant and dark red fruit too. This is lush, luxurious but stays within its structure, with fresh minerals behind. This wine is enormously complex, hugely concentrated and really pretty extraordinary. Drink 2024-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Picking began on 3rd September, not before, as the whites were not phenologically ripe earlier, and the acidity was stable. For the reds many more whole bunches have been used this vintage, given that the grapes were perfectly ripe. The reds are every bit the standard you would expect, but we were completely bowled over by the brilliance of the white wines here this year.

This has delicious red fruit and almost endless strawberry and juicy cherry flavours- although this is not a massive wine. The 60-year-old vines are planted on shallow topsoil with lots of iron oxide which gives the dense tannic structure. Drink 2023-2033.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

The former Domaine Duchet in Beaune was bought in 2005 by American Roger Forbes and his co-investors, and entrusted to the care of David Croix, the gifted winemaker for Camille Giroud. The estate has been renamed Domaine des Croix, in honour of David and also the numerous stone crosses to be found in the vineyards. The original Beaune and Corton-Charlemagne vineyards have since been supplemented by Aloxe-Corton, Corton La Vigne au Saint and Corton Grèves. The vineyards are farmed organically. The only thing David Croix doesn’t like in 2016 is the lack of volume. He was full of praise for the quality of the vintage, explaining that the grapes were very healthy at harvest despite the difficult season, and said the aromas in the winery during fermentation were glorious. He describes the wines as “harmonious, with nothing that is out of balance”. No Bourgogne was made this year, there are tiny volumes of village wines and several of the Beaune Premiers Crus have been blended to make a single wine. In fact, only Corton-Charlemagne has achieved anything like a normal yield.

Beaune was one of the areas most hit by frost in 2016, although, placed towards the north of the appellation, Les Perrières fared better than some. Historically the limestone content would favour Chardonnay here but, according to Brian Sieve, warmer vintages in recent years have led to a softer, riper style of Beaune. He used one-third whole-cluster this year, scaled back from 2015. Very succulent, there is a lovely cherry and violet, perfumed lift to the finish. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

This parcel of old vines is situated at the top of the vineyard, alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches.  The aromas are of red and black fruit, with some  spice adding complexity. On the palate, it is all  cherry, with real richness, plenty of power and chalky but ripe tannins. The finish is creamy and floral. Drink 2022-2027.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

This is one-third whole-bunch this year, using the older vine fruit and de-stemming the younger portions where stems are typically less ripe. The high active limestone content in this vineyard gives an energetic and mineral expression of Pinot Noir, with succulent cherry fruit in the middle and a violet perfumed lift to accompany the chalky tannins. Drink 2021-2026.

Winemaker Brian Sieve draws comparisons between the white wines of 2017 and 2014, explaining that the texture, weight and freshness are very similar in both years, although 2017 has perhaps a little more fruit ripeness, along with excellent tension and persistence. He believes that this same freshness and brightness in the reds will provide ageing capacity, pointing out that they worked hard to restrict the yield of Pinot Noir to achieve riper grapes. Overall slightly less whole-bunch fermentation was used as Brian felt the stems and fruit were not as ripe as in richer vintages.