Beaune

One third whole-bunch vinified, for the old vines, this is dense purple, with deep raspberry fruit. The wine displays a crunchy, fresh, mineral finish, reflecting the limestone content of the soil here, with some tannins neatly framed by the fruit.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

Only six barrels were made from 1.2 hectares, which works out as only 10hl/ha. The little wine that was made went into 10 percent new oak and was bottled early. There is a gentle freshness and some delicate, light, red fruit. W hat it lacks in body it makes up for in a pleasant, frothy personality. Very pleasant and undemanding. Drink 2020-2024.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

The domaine was created through the marriage of Jacques Rossignol of Volnay with Mado Trapet from a noted family in Gevrey-Chambertin. Their sons Nicolas and David Rossignol have managed the domaine since 1990, moving subsequently to biodynamic farming. The first experiments started in 1997 with their Chapelle- Chambertin, followed by conversion of the whole domaine in 2004. Vinification includes a small proportion of whole bunches, while the trend in recent years has been to look for an increasingly elegant expression of Pinot Noir. It’s a remarkable cellar this year, with brothers Nicolas and David radiating calm and understanding. As elsewhere, this was a very challenging vintage for them, especially in Beaune, the village Gevrey vines and Le Chambertin. Containing the mildew required an incredible amount of work by hand. Their biodynamic strategy seems to have paid off though; after a slow start to the range, the impression was of incremental qualities. Intensity, not density. Nicolas and David referred us to Nono, Love and the Soil by Gaston Roupnel, a novelist born in Gevrey.

With subtle perfume, this is rather lovely, but not glossy, as the vineyard lies towards Pommard so is more structured than most. Last year’s frosts were heavy here and have meant some retraining of damaged vines, reducing the normal yield by 40 percent, but they should be back in commission by the 2019 vintage. Drink 2020-2024.


It was a “normal” harvest here this year which, in Jean-Yves’s world, is still a relatively paltry 30hl/ha, due to his scrupulous organic and biodynamic vineyard management. Jean-Yves is increasingly interested in the role and importance of sulphur dioxide in a wine’s evolution. He found that a trial bottling made without SO2 had little expression of the vineyard, yet he finds that adding SO2 too early in the winemaking process makes the wines more fragile and prone to oxidation. A fine range from a reflective winemaker.

This parcel of old vines sits alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches. It’s more powerful than the Grèves, but with a lovely purple floral character and bright cherry notes that add a touch of charm to the slightly muscular structure. The finish is refreshing and energetic. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

For Dominique, this is the best vineyard in Beaune. A wonderful combination of elegance and richness, there is an initial concentration of dense berry fruit, which segues into velvet tannins and a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. A very sensual and seductive expression of Beaune. Drink 2022-2028.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

This parcel of old vines is situated at the top of the vineyard, alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches.  The aromas are of red and black fruit, with some  spice adding complexity. On the palate, it is all  cherry, with real richness, plenty of power and chalky but ripe tannins. The finish is creamy and floral. Drink 2022-2027.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

Dominique has this parcel on a fermage contract. It’s an elegant expression of Beaune, with a bright purple colour, floral aromatics and rich fruit on the palate.  The tannins are silky, seductive and perfectly integrated with the fruit. A wonderful, floral finish. Drink 2021-2026

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

Les Perrières is the vineyard always offered to be Meursault’s Grand Cru, if the village was to have one. De Montille refers to it as a “Grand” Premier Cru. It is the most mineral of the village’s Premiers Crus and so works very well in 2016. It’s hard to read from barrel, but there is clear grip and finesse on the palate, intense and concentrated, with no undue weight. It came under the De Montille banner in 2012. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée ’s requirements.

Founded in 1859 Maison Louis Jadot has a long history of producing textbook Burgundy. In 2009, to celebrate their 150^th year, they produced a special bottling of 18 different 1er Cru Beaune vineyards. The 2012 is the second incarnation of this unique, brilliantly drinkable wine which, unusually for Burgundy, is offered in a range of bottle sizes of up to 18 litres.

A multi Climat blend from Beaune 1er cru vineyards, all of which are mentioned on the label, this is a generous, raspberry filled Beaune for mid-term drinking. Fruit forward and supple tannins, along with the freshness that is a hallmark of the vintage, the makes a delicious addition to any cellar.
Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager
 
A beautiful expression of Beaune, pure raspberry nose with a touch of that classic Beaune white pepper. 2012 has produced wines with effortless character and this is no exception, supple yet with enough freshness to really make you want to go back for more. An excellent wine and at this price the large formats look like brilliant options for those larger gatherings over the next 8-10 years.
Matt Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager

A product of the absolute heart of the Grèves vineyard, this is a very complete and remarkable wine in 2010. The core of the fruit is based on rich, dark cherries, but it is the multi-layered aspect that sets it apart this year. Very intense and persistent, it is simply terrific.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Philippe Prost, long-time winemaker at Bouchard Père & Fils, is less flamboyant than his veteran opposite number at Jadot, but he still has firm opinions and he knows the detail of all his vineyard sites inside out. He clearly prefers his 2010 whites to the previous vintage, though we rather liked those too, while the fresh finish of the vintage has brought his excellent 2010 reds to life.

Fine, pure and pale in colour, the lovely fruit is overlaid by a level of barrel toast which actually works very well. There’s a beautiful intensity and it has kept a lean note all the way through, very successful. Even a touch of tannin at the back, this is very long. Drink 2020-2027
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The healthy crop was picked from 2nd September, with acceptable yields for the whites but rather low again for the reds. Vinification was adapted to suit the nature of the vintage, with less forceful punching down this year, especially at the start. The Drouhin style is compellingly elegant every year, while 2015 delivers an extra coating of velvet to the fruit.

Sixty-six percent whole-bunch and 25 percent new wood, the resulting wine is very dense purple. The nose is ultra-concentrated with a feeling of nutty density. Really tightly wound, the potential here is huge, with amazing density. It is the best wine that we have tasted from this vineyard. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

From ancient vines, planted in 1904, this Beaune from Domaine de Bellene has rich, blackcurrant fruit, amazing length and a glorious silkiness. It is fresh at the finish, despite the evident richness of fruit. A magical, harmonious wine.

This wine, from the fabulous 2009 vintage, is only just starting out in life. The sunshine character of ’09 is such that the wines are enjoyable from the start, but will age brilliantly.

Domaine de Bellene is the private domaine of Nicolas Potel, established in Beaune since 2007. The title pays homage to the ancient pagan god Belenos, after whom Beaune takes its name.

The domaine is based in some marvellous old cellars, renovated to an ecologically admirable standard (‘Haute Qualité Environnementale’), on the Dijon road out of Beaune. The vineyards are being converted to organic farming, with some biodynamic elements and now cover 22hectares. The wines are made using a high proportion of whole bunches which helps build the structure of the wine to support the generous fruit.

Less hail here and better flowering from younger vines. Lovely classy pinot to this, fine and elegant, good acid balance, lovely finish to it, stylish in the extreme. Very lovely Beaune, highly recommended.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The Rossignol-Trapet  brothers have done it again - producing a beautifully perfumed Beaune wine with an almost Chambolle-like quality. Wines like this are the hidden gems of the offer.
(Stuart Rae, Cellar Plan Account Manager)

We don’t normally put this bottling in our en primeur prime selection but it is so good this year that we could not resist. The fruit is completely mouth-filling and finishes with classic mineral notes.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)

This Bressandes from Domaine des Croix is a lovely rich purple with a fresh, balanced nose. It is gorgeous across the palate, growing to a noticeably rich, sumptuous finish with all elements working in perfect harmony together.

There is a good proportion of Les Rugiens in this cuve and it has a very seductive mouth feel with a fabulous quality of fruit up front and more structure behind. Interestingly, the richness of 2009 has tamed the tannins of Pommard.

Brilliant, glowing mid-purple with a very fine, silky nose; this is really classy. To optimise the finesse of this vineyard David does more pumping over than punching down and it is paying dividends. Very sensual in the mouth, top marks.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The average yield across the domaine this year is 25 hl/ha, well below par, but not the catastrophe which was visited on some, and these 2012s are clearly David’s best wines yet. He found them easy to vinify, though they have required some careful management in barrel because they are so concentrated and compact. The grapes were completely healthy and showed the best analytical balance one could ask for, mostly between 12.5% to 13% alcohol and ideal acidity to preserve freshness.

Burgundy 2012 En Primeur - Staff Favourite
The Beaune appellation can conjure up old-style, sturdy, unforgiving Burgundy of old. In the hands of David Croix and others, it has become a much more desirable appellation. David's 2012 Grèves is always one to look out for; with its tenser, fresher, and more linear components than those beasts of old - give it 6 years min. to show its best.
Tom Cave, Fine Wine

The skins were so thick and tight that it needed nearly four weeks in the fermenting vat. It needed the extra time but is correspondingly backward now. The bouquet has shut down but suggests density. On the palate it is tense, dense and crunchy.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The average yield across the domaine this year is 25 hl/ha, well below par, but not the catastrophe which was visited on some, and these 2012s are clearly David’s best wines yet. He found them easy to vinify, though they have required some careful management in barrel because they are so concentrated and compact. The grapes were completely healthy and showed the best analytical balance one could ask for, mostly between 12.5% to 13% alcohol and ideal acidity to preserve freshness.

Domaine de Montille is a first-class Côte de Beaune domaine and one which is producing some of the purest expressions of Pinot Noir to be found in Burgundy today. The domaine was developed by Hubert de Montille, a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1951 and most of the production was sold in bulk to négociants. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, as well as four hectares in Pommard, taking his total holdings to just short of 17 hectares. Today the property is run by his son Etienne.

With a clear, bright, pale colour, this is very elegant. With a little touch of liquorice, it is quite classy. This really broadens out on the palate, with a lovely citrus touch and a future nuttiness. Promising, with volume waiting to develop.

With a rich, fine, dense nose, this wine is relatively backward at this stage. There is a wealth of delicious, deep red fruit on the palate, with good acid balance and length of flavour. This vineyard provides excellent value.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Quantities were down a further 15% on the previous two vintages. However Nicolas Rossignol reports that there were no problems in vinification, and they have added a further refinement this year with a new state-of-theart de-stemmer, which leaves the individual berries whole as it takes them off their stems. Given the natural concentration of the fruit in 2012, there was no need to seek much extraction. Once again this domaine offers superb quality at reasonable prices.
 

Bright purple, with a fresh and spicy nose and a touch of reduction, but real weight in the background. This wine has real muscle at the back of the palate, yet is also has a very seductive texture – and is very long too. A great Beaune in the making.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Winemaker and general manager, David Croix, has been grumbling that he feels he has the temperament of a grower rather than the deal-making knack of a born negoçiant, so he hasn’t found it easy to fill the cellar in 2012. We also find that tasting with him feels like being in a grower’s cellar, though Camille Giroud only owns a couple of vineyards. There are, nevertheless, one or two really exciting new wines here this year, notably the Volnay Santenots, and the whole cellar is on top form.

Lovely purple colour and exquisitely perfumed, this elegant Beaune is delicacy personified. Silky tannins are perfectly integrated into the fruit and the aftertaste is sublime.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director