Beaune

From four separate parcels and with 15 percent wholebunch, this is a very pretty wine, with small red-berry fruit on both the nose and palate. There is a crunchy feel to the fruit, with lovely detail and purity. A wine you cannot help but fall in love with. Drink 2020-2024.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

With subtle perfume, this is rather lovely, but not glossy, as the vineyard lies towards Pommard so is more structured than most. Last year’s frosts were heavy here and have meant some retraining of damaged vines, reducing the normal yield by 40 percent, but they should be back in commission by the 2019 vintage. Drink 2020-2024.


It was a “normal” harvest here this year which, in Jean-Yves’s world, is still a relatively paltry 30hl/ha, due to his scrupulous organic and biodynamic vineyard management. Jean-Yves is increasingly interested in the role and importance of sulphur dioxide in a wine’s evolution. He found that a trial bottling made without SO2 had little expression of the vineyard, yet he finds that adding SO2 too early in the winemaking process makes the wines more fragile and prone to oxidation. A fine range from a reflective winemaker.

Last year Carel had to blend what he could salvage from both his Beaune Premiers Crus into one wine. Back as a stand-alone this year, this is relatively sturdy and strong, although not inflexible. This is Camille Giroud’s own vineyard. Drink 2022-2027.

With a range that spans both Côtes, Carel observed that the red vintage is about pretty, balanced, fresh fruit. The reds south of Beaune are generally lighter than the north, where there is better phenolic intensity. Carel puts the whites on a par with 2014, but the raw material is healthier and so the wines are purer. He rates 2017 as one of the best white vintages in the last decade. Stylistically, Carel’s preferred direction for reds is towards whole-bunch and he confesses he would always do 100 percent if he could (and this year he often has).

This is a speical site, at 300 metres’ altitude and on a 20 percent gradient, facing east. The nose has lifted cranberry fruit and a wild edge. The palate has a vibrant energy, lots of rocky limestone tannins and bright, fresh raspberry fruit. A purists’ wine, in the best possible sense. Drink 2022-2028.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

Beaune was one of the areas most hit by frost in 2016, although, placed towards the north of the appellation, Les Perrières fared better than some. Historically the limestone content would favour Chardonnay here but, according to Brian Sieve, warmer vintages in recent years have led to a softer, riper style of Beaune. He used one-third whole-cluster this year, scaled back from 2015. Very succulent, there is a lovely cherry and violet, perfumed lift to the finish. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

David loves the elegance of this vineyard, which comes from a cool site with shallow topsoil and hard limestone subsoil. This is crunchy, pure and focused with plenty of energy. There is a silky, suave mouth-feel but with a rocky undercurrent. Drink 2022-2028.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

This domaine-owned vineyard is well-sited with a series of terraces, an unusual feature in Burgundy. Old vines and millerandage yielded only 20hl/ha, even in 2017. Carel used 100 percent whole-bunch, resulting in a wine that is lush, spicy and very lovely. Drink 2022-2027.

With a range that spans both Côtes, Carel observed that the red vintage is about pretty, balanced, fresh fruit. The reds south of Beaune are generally lighter than the north, where there is better phenolic intensity. Carel puts the whites on a par with 2014, but the raw material is healthier and so the wines are purer. He rates 2017 as one of the best white vintages in the last decade. Stylistically, Carel’s preferred direction for reds is towards whole-bunch and he confesses he would always do 100 percent if he could (and this year he often has).

The 25 percent whole-bunch gives a floral touch to the nose. The palate has abundant rich red fruit, real generosity and showy, silky tannins. The inclusion of stems has added a chalky structure that extends the finish and provides complexity. Impressive and quite explosive. Drink 2022-2028.

David is delighted that he finally has a good crop for the first time in many years. Furthermore, he is very pleased with the quality and style of the reds, highlighting their clarity, definition and gourmandise, pointing out that these are airy, red-fruited and pure wines in the same mould as 2000, a vintage which drank well young and still tastes good today. He has extracted an extra level of colour and texture by working the fruit a little harder and carrying out a longer maceration than in the past few years, with impressive results.

The Grèves end of Beaune suffered less from frost, so volumes here are not too small. This very elegant style of Grèves comes from three plots – higher, lower and mid-slope. There is wonderful initial concentration of juicy red berry fruit, before silky, supple tannins and a vibrant acidity kick in to add complexity. Lovely. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

This parcel of old vines sits alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches. It’s more powerful than the Grèves, but with a lovely purple floral character and bright cherry notes that add a touch of charm to the slightly muscular structure. The finish is refreshing and energetic. Drink 2022-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

From 2008 Dominique Lafon decided to make a few wines under his own label, separate from the family domaine (Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon). Though this new company has the official status of a négociant, almost all the wines are in fact domaine bottlings from vineyards which Dominique either owns or has the contract to farm. The wines are now vinified, matured and bottled in extensive cellars at the Château de Bligny-lès-Beaune. Dominique is delighted with the quality of the wines in 2016, praising their elegance, quality of tannins and fresh fruit profile. In his opinion the wines are as good as, but different to, 2015, explaining that – analytically – many of this year’s wines are no higher in acid than last year, but the slightly less rich character gives them a fresher feel. Unfortunately volumes are disappointing for many cuvées and there are only two commercially available red wines this year due to the frost, meaning that Dominique owed the vineyard owner more in grapes than he produced.

For Dominique, this is the best vineyard in Beaune. A wonderful combination of elegance and richness, there is an initial concentration of dense berry fruit, which segues into velvet tannins and a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. A very sensual and seductive expression of Beaune. Drink 2022-2028.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

This parcel of old vines is situated at the top of the vineyard, alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches.  The aromas are of red and black fruit, with some  spice adding complexity. On the palate, it is all  cherry, with real richness, plenty of power and chalky but ripe tannins. The finish is creamy and floral. Drink 2022-2027.

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

Dominique has this parcel on a fermage contract. It’s an elegant expression of Beaune, with a bright purple colour, floral aromatics and rich fruit on the palate.  The tannins are silky, seductive and perfectly integrated with the fruit. A wonderful, floral finish. Drink 2021-2026

After the famine of 2016, this year is something of a feast, at least in the case of the reds. Sadly, the whites, which Dominique praises as having excellent clarity, are in slightly smaller volumes than 2016. The good news is that the full range of red wines has been made, and in good volume too. Dominique is effusive in his praise for the 2017 reds, describing them as appealing, with beautiful balance, a lightness of touch, refined tannins and a floral character with stunning red fruit.

Although its effects were felt less in the Clos des Mouches, the frost limited the yield here, resulting in an exceptionally concentrated cuvée . The crop was healthy, permitting the inclusion of 10 percent of the stems. Deep ruby in colour, this is a touch reduced on the nose, but quickly reveals bright bramble fruit and floral aromas. The palate is dark-fruited and earthy; the tannins are firm at present but promise to become velvety with age. Drink 2021-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Originally from the Yonne department, Joseph Drouhin founded the négociant company which bears his name in 1880. His son Maurice took over in 1918, buying the first vineyards including the famous Beaune Clos des Mouches. His successor Robert Drouhin has now passed on management to his children Frédéric (managing director), Laurent (export markets), Philippe (vineyards) and Véronique (oenology). Philippe manages the vineyards biodynamically while Véronique is supported by oenologist Jérome Faure-Brac and chef de cave Mélanie Sire. Véronique Drouhin is happy with the quality of the vintage, and philosophical about its quantity. She points out that a number of village-level wines have been enhanced by the addition of grapes from Premier Cru vineyards too badly frosted to justify their own cuvée. Where the frost was marginally less severe, the team at Drouhin used a tiny tank press – bought in response to the small crop in 2013 – to make what Véronique describes as “micro- cuvées”. Harvest began here on September 23rd, with meticulous sorting to separate the ripe (first generation) grapes from those which grew after the frost. Virtually all the grapes were de-stemmed, and pigeage preferred to pumping-over in a bid emphasise the fresh, fruity character of the vintage.

Founded in 1859 Maison Louis Jadot has a long history of producing textbook Burgundy. In 2009, to celebrate their 150^th year, they produced a special bottling of 18 different 1er Cru Beaune vineyards. The 2012 is the second incarnation of this unique, brilliantly drinkable wine which, unusually for Burgundy, is offered in a range of bottle sizes of up to 18 litres.

A multi Climat blend from Beaune 1er cru vineyards, all of which are mentioned on the label, this is a generous, raspberry filled Beaune for mid-term drinking. Fruit forward and supple tannins, along with the freshness that is a hallmark of the vintage, the makes a delicious addition to any cellar.
Fergus Stewart, Private Account Manager
 
A beautiful expression of Beaune, pure raspberry nose with a touch of that classic Beaune white pepper. 2012 has produced wines with effortless character and this is no exception, supple yet with enough freshness to really make you want to go back for more. An excellent wine and at this price the large formats look like brilliant options for those larger gatherings over the next 8-10 years.
Matt Tipping, Fine Wine Sales Manager

David’s vines are located in a cooler site at the top of the hill. Brisk purple in colour, this is tenser and stricter than the village wine, belying the almost 14 percent alcohol. There is a huge amount going on here. This is very long and vibrant, with almost blackcurrant fruit. Drink 2022-2030.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

David Croix has used a small percentage of whole bunches this year which is unusual for him, but he likes this approach in years with darker, riper fruit. Yields were the same as in 2012, around 25 hl/ha. He began picking his reds on 7th September, bringing the whole crop in over just four days. The Corton vineyards, both planted with 50- to 60-year-old vines, provide a fascinating contrast in style.

Fine, pure and pale in colour, the lovely fruit is overlaid by a level of barrel toast which actually works very well. There’s a beautiful intensity and it has kept a lean note all the way through, very successful. Even a touch of tannin at the back, this is very long. Drink 2020-2027
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The healthy crop was picked from 2nd September, with acceptable yields for the whites but rather low again for the reds. Vinification was adapted to suit the nature of the vintage, with less forceful punching down this year, especially at the start. The Drouhin style is compellingly elegant every year, while 2015 delivers an extra coating of velvet to the fruit.

Situated alongside Drouhin’s Clos des Mouches, this is mid-purple, with very intense, concentrated fruit and a mineral crunchiness. It’s the most structured of the three Beaunes. Note the quality of the oak integration and its very long finish. Drink 2021-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The whites were picked from 28th August with a good crop for the Bourgogne Blanc, rather less in the other white vineyards. The reds – more wine than in 2014 or 2016 but far from a full crop – are superb, having been vinified with very light extraction, given the health and beauty of the raw material. While all the whites count as domaine wines, there are now two excellent cuvées of Premier Cru Beaune from purchased grapes to go alongside the domaine-owned Beaune Épenottes and the two Volnays.

Sixty-six percent whole-bunch and 25 percent new wood, the resulting wine is very dense purple. The nose is ultra-concentrated with a feeling of nutty density. Really tightly wound, the potential here is huge, with amazing density. It is the best wine that we have tasted from this vineyard. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

From ancient vines, planted in 1904, this Beaune from Domaine de Bellene has rich, blackcurrant fruit, amazing length and a glorious silkiness. It is fresh at the finish, despite the evident richness of fruit. A magical, harmonious wine.

This wine, from the fabulous 2009 vintage, is only just starting out in life. The sunshine character of ’09 is such that the wines are enjoyable from the start, but will age brilliantly.

Domaine de Bellene is the private domaine of Nicolas Potel, established in Beaune since 2007. The title pays homage to the ancient pagan god Belenos, after whom Beaune takes its name.

The domaine is based in some marvellous old cellars, renovated to an ecologically admirable standard (‘Haute Qualité Environnementale’), on the Dijon road out of Beaune. The vineyards are being converted to organic farming, with some biodynamic elements and now cover 22hectares. The wines are made using a high proportion of whole bunches which helps build the structure of the wine to support the generous fruit.