Clos-Des-Chenes

This comes from one hectare of vines, split into three parcels ranging between 46 and 80 years old. There is a lovely, sweet kernel of red fruit here, along with pert, chalky tannins which are present but refined. It is typically a more structured Volnay, but the gentle Buffet style keeps things in check. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

Hauntingly pure and beautiful, there is a perfume here that is reminiscent of sweet peas coupled with extrovert headiness. Intensely concentrated, it is absolutely mouth-filling, with quite a raft of tannins behind yet still silkily fine, followed by a sublime and incredibly long aftertaste.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Philippe Prost, long-time winemaker at Bouchard Père & Fils, is less flamboyant than his veteran opposite number at Jadot, but he still has firm opinions and he knows the detail of all his vineyard sites inside out. He clearly prefers his 2010 whites to the previous vintage, though we rather liked those too, while the fresh finish of the vintage has brought his excellent 2010 reds to life.

With a gentle and gracious bouquet, this 2011 is showing the potential to join the list of great Lafarge Clos des Chênes. Discreet, but potentially spectacular, which it certainly is in the mouth, the wine is backed by a crisp freshness and is a benchmark for grace and persistence.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

The Lafarge’s picked from 31st August to 6th September in 2011 and the fruit is fully ripe and balanced in every sense. Very healthy grapes were harvested that hardly required any sorting and gentle extraction has produced some beautifully fine wines which Michel Lafarge compares in quality to his 1952s. If this is the case, our suggested drinking dates would appear to be rather on the conservative side!

Goodness, this is very special. The nose is closed, but in the mouth, the elements explode into life to indicate a great future. Frédéric explains that these vines are at the crossroads of four Premiers Crus, perhaps to suggest that this wine has a little bit of all things Volnaysien. This is a heady, energising experience. Drink 2027-2040.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. Following on from the extraordinary success of the 2015 here, tasting the 2016s with Frédéric proved to be an equally breath-taking experience. In common with a handful of other cellars this year, in the right hands this vintage will be great. It might be easy to misread the wines and consider them obvious and accessible, but the best addresses have a profundity to match their wines’ succulence. Just so here; with such low yields after the frosts, not to mention the fruit lost to mildew, the skill was to achieve balanced sugars and tannins without over-maturity or density. The family’s deep knowledge of their vineyards and traditional, instinctive winemaking was the key. The delicacy and finesse here left us bereft of adjectives, but underpinning all the wines is the inherent vitality of the vineyards and the vintage.