Clos-Des-Chenes

This comes from one hectare of vines, split into three parcels ranging between 46 and 80 years old. There is a lovely, sweet kernel of red fruit here, along with pert, chalky tannins which are present but refined. It is typically a more structured Volnay, but the gentle Buffet style keeps things in check. Drink 2021-2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This has the same bright purple colour as the other wines and the same haunting elegance. If anything, the fruit is even more pure and sensationally persistent. There is a gorgeous, satiny texture to boot. Another wonderful Lafarge wine, this will give pleasure over the long term. Drink 2027-2040.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

The 2015 vintage did not start easily, as the vines were difficult to prune after the hail in preceding years, and only a small crop set. Thereafter conditions were near perfect, with just enough rain when they needed it to make sure that the grapes ripened ideally. There is only half a crop, but of magical quality. Michel Lafarge has no difficulty in finding a vintage to compare it to: just like 1929. Both years, he notes, are particularly suited to the graceful terroirs such as Volnay.

We preferred this to Bouchard’s Caillerets this year. It has a lovely vivid red-purple colour, and a very stylish nose with charm almost akin to Les Amoureuses. Fresh and energetic, there is a great sense of precision on the palate. Drink 2015-2020.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director

Philippe Prost, long-time winemaker at Bouchard Père & Fils, is less flamboyant than his veteran opposite number at Jadot, but he still has firm opinions and he knows the detail of all his vineyard sites inside out. He clearly prefers his 2010 whites to the previous vintage, though we rather liked those too, while the fresh finish of the vintage has brought his excellent 2010 reds to life.

Nicolas Potel's range of wines is better than ever this year, and offers some superb, and extremely well priced, Premiers and Grands Crus. His Volnay Clos de Chenes is one of the best. It is a big Volnay, with relatively intense and powerful flavours, and a firm structure, but maintains the necessary silky purity and elegance.
(David Jones, Cellar Plan Account Manager)