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Cumières, in the Vallée de la Marne, is just down the road from Dom Pérignon’s Abbey at Hautvillers. The village is famous for its stylish Pinot Noir-dominated Champagnes, made to perfection by the Geoffroy family for five generations. Jean Baptise is certainly busy; he has just bought and redesigned a gravity-fed winery in Ay and is constantly looking to perfect his craft. We think he’s pretty close already; tasting chez lui was a real pleasure, the atmosphere enlivened by the constant appearance and disappearance of some or all of his five young daughters. His enthusiasm and energy are boundless, his champagne wines uniformly superb.