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François Jobard is as quiet as they come. He has been making top rate Meursault for 50 years in a very understated way, starting work with his father in 1957. However tastings at the domaine have become a little more voluble, since 2002 when son Antoine joined François, the label mentioning both names. This quiet and unassuming grower has nearly 5 hectares of vines in Meursault and produces a minuscule 2,000 cases a year. From 2007 the design has changed and the name has evolved to Domaine Antoine Jobard. But Clint Eastwood look-alike François has still been in evidence when I go to taste at the domaine. The winemaking is traditional here - Jobard abhors the excessive use of new oak and extended lees stirring which he feels merely serve to flatter the wines when young, yet add little to their long-term ageing potential. If you like Meursaults that are big, broad and oaky, and are as yellow as French headlights, then this may not be the domaine for you. However, if you like Meursaults that are taut, mineral, complex and refined, then François Jobard is your man. Like their maker, his wines reflect an unhurried restraint, competence, dedication and precision, giving them complex and elegant characteristics. His wines are not flamboyant but are graceful and steely and display astonishing mineral intensity and finesse. François Jobard wines taste superb in the barrel but then need years in bottle before they show their qualities. They are aged in barrel for two years and then bottled with a reasonably heavy dose of sulphur to ensure their longevity at the expense of youthful charm. Probably the key to this style though is the decision not to settle the solids out of the juice before it goes to barrel for fermentation. Antoine does not intend to make significant changes, except to the label, though there will surely be some fine tuning. Already the wines are bottled just a few months earlier, to avoid a second summer in barrel. Their small plot of Blagny rouge which always made a rather austere wine has been pulled out and replanted with chardonnay so the domaine is now entirely white. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.
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Bottle 6 x 75cl
Bottle 6 x 75cl
Bottle 12 x 75cl
Antoine started on 18th September with acceptable yields for the vintage, though not in every vineyard. He lost his Puligny Champgains to hail, for example. Both fermentations passed off without a hitch, and the wines are showing tremendous class. One or two new vineyards are coming on stream between 2012 and 2014, while some of his holdings will be reduced in favour of other family members. A very successful cellar this year.
Antoine Jobard started picking on Sunday 19th September and hurried through so as to finish before the rains, announced for the following Friday, arrived. The wines have the same concentration as in Franois Jobards time but a greater purity. There is little emphasis on new oak, with an average of 20% new barrels across the range, leaving the wines to speak for themselves. Everything was fully ripe in 2010 but nothing exceeded 13.3% alcohol, so the balance is certainly there.
Somewhat softer and rounder than Les Tillets, this wine has a little more weight on the mid-palate, reflecting its position on the lower slopes, alongside impressive fruit and length. Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Director
There are three new cuvées from Antoine Jobard this year: a Meursault not previously bottled, a newly purchased Puligny Premier Cru, and a barrel of Meursault Perrières grown by a friend and exchanged for some Jobard Poruzots. The harvest began on 29th August with healthy grapes, very few treatments having been needed in the vines, which were picked around 12.2% with correct yields around 50 hl/ha. This is a superb address for Meursault which ages with distinction.
Bottle 12 x 75cl
The hail affected mostly his Bourgogne Blanc and En La Barre vineyards, the Premiers Crus being largely spared. These are superb wines in 2013, not least because Antoine Jobard picked between 26th September and 3rd October, before the heavy rains. Few producers in Meursault can match this range for quality, concentration and precision.