2011 Barbera d'Alba, Donna Margherita, Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont, Italy

Giovanni Rosso

Davide Rosso took over from his father, Giovanni, in the early 2000s. He has since risen quickly in reputation as one of Piedmont’s greatest producers. He may not have the uninterrupted winemaking history of some of his famous neighbours, but he is the envy of many: he has some of the most desirable vineyards in Barolo – Serralunga d’Alba, Cerretta, Serra – showcasing the vivid terroir of his beloved hometown.

His range of single vineyards demonstrates his sensitivity and skill, and his pride for his hometown only magnifies the details of these crus, resulting in wines of rare class and sophistication.

Using traditional cement for fermentation with long gentle macerations, Davide’s wines are timeless, traditional and expertly crafted. His specially made French botti from the Fontainebleau forest are an indicator of Davide’s refined flamboyance. And his vineyards give him the quality of raw material to demonstrate his charm and flair.

He also crafts a small amount of wine in neighbouring Langhe and Roero and an Etna Bianco and Etna Rosso from stunning volcanic sites in Sicily.

Dolcetto d'Alba

Dolcetto d'Alba is a DOC zone producing wines exclusively from the Dolcetto grape. D'Alba is one of the seven Dolcetto zones in Piedmont, the others being Acqui, Asti, Diano d' Alba, Ovada and Dogliani, as well as the less significant Langhe Monregalesi. D'Alba is regarded as the finest-quality zone of all for Dolcetto.

Dolcetto is an important Piedmontese grape, and the antithesis of Nebbiolo. It ripens a month earlier and produces wines that are low in acid yet high in tannins. Planted on the sites spurned by Nebbiolo and Barbera, Dolcetto is most suited to the light, white, sandy, calcareous tufa soils that are common in and around Barbaresco. It is generally made in an unoaked style to accentuate its natural violet perfume and juicy, bitter cherry and almond fruit. Dolcetto d’Alba is the grape’s most highly-regarded incarnation and makes the perfect antipasti wine.

Recommended producers: Diano, Dogliani

Barbera

Barbera is planted extensively in Piedmont and south-west Lombardy and accounts for over 50% of the wine produced in the region. The majority is sold simply as Barbera del Piemonte, but the best wines are the DOCs, Barbera d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti. It ripens late (after Dolcetto but before Nebbiolo).

The wines are usually ruby red in colour with notably low levels of tannins. They have a pronounced acidity that can be accentuated by overproduction. Barbera wines range from light, tart mouthwashers through to powerful, intensely flavoured wines that require extended cellaring.