Piedmont
Piedmont has been the pre-eminent fine wine province of Italy since Roman times. Located in the north-west of the country, it is influenced culturally and climatically by the surrounding Alps and Ligurian Apennines. Its most important fine wine regions are the Langhe, incorporating Barolo and Barbaresco; Monferrato, comprising the wines of Asti and Gavi; and Novara with its Colline Novaresi and Boca.
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Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
Made for us by Davide Rosso, this Barolo offers classic Nebbiolo character and structure. Since first bottling his family’s Serralunga d’Alba fruit in the late 1990s, Davide has rightly gained a reputation as one of the region’s finest (Nebbiolo) winemakers. He may not have the name or history of some of his famous neighbours but perhaps as a result he’s further incited to prove himself. That he is surely doing, with a range of peerless Serralunga Baroli, traditionally and expertly made.
The fine yet densely packed tannins are enveloped in scented cherry and cranberry fruit, with florals that hint at dried violets. The opulent texture is balanced by refreshing, racy acidity and a core of chalky minerals. Accessible and seductive, this is a pleasure to drink now, but the sophistication, refinement and concentration will allow it to age further in bottle. It will benefit from being decanted.
The fine yet densely packed tannins are enveloped in scented cherry and cranberry fruit, with florals that hint at dried violets. The opulent texture is balanced by refreshing, racy acidity and a core of chalky minerals. Accessible and seductive, this is a pleasure to drink now, but the sophistication, refinement and concentration will allow it to age further in bottle. It will benefit from being decanted.
Marcarini, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
From a single vineyard near the town of Montaldo Roero, 300 metres above sea-level with southern exposure, the calcareous and sandy soil gives generous fruit and fresh salinity to the wine. Straw yellow with a golden hue, it is ample, fragrant and very elegant with notes of freshly sliced melon, green apple, ginger and orange blossom. There is good texture across the palate and racy minerality. Drink now to 2024.
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer
Antonio Vallana e Figlio,
Drink now,
A new addition to the Vallana range, this rosé is rooted in Francis and Marina’s childhood, when they used to steal Nebbiolo grapes from the tanks just after harvest. During these very first hours of fermentation, Nebbiolo expresses the most incredible floral and sweet-fruit characters – as captured by this wine. Aromas of wild strawberry and white flowers lead to a palate laden with forest fruit, with a hint of tangerine and a beautifully fresh, dry finish. Try with cold charcuterie or seared tuna. Drink now to 2020.
Matt Smith, Buyer (spring 2019)
Matt Smith, Buyer (spring 2019)
Antonio Vallana e Figlio,
Ready, but will keep,
Spanna is the local name for Nebbiolo in the lesser-knowm Alto Piemonte region of Italy, which creates a very different expression of this variety to the more widely appreciated wines of the Langhe. The wine is dark and rich, with an almost bloody character coming from the iron-rich soils of this old volcanic region. Earthy characters and spice add complexity to the floral, cherry fruit. The wine is only released after two years of ageing, once the tannins have softened and integrated. This is a supremely underrated region in Italy, producing some of the most thrilling and versatile red wines. Serve this alongside a hearty ragù, game or wild mushrooms. Drink now to 2025.
Matt Smith, Buyer (spring 2019)
Matt Smith, Buyer (spring 2019)
Cascina Mario Fontana, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2016 shows incredible intensity of fruit, while retaining great freshness and energy. Mario’s Barbera hails from Sinio (famed for its fruit-rich wines) and from high pedigree, Castiglione. Half of the blend stays in cement tank, half in older barrels, giving the wine rounder edges and enjoyability. Raspberry ripple, black and red cherry fruit and bright berry freshness give way to succulence and supple, vivid, blue-fruit freshness. Drink now to 2028.
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer
Antonio Vallana e Figlio,
Ready, but will keep,
Produced in a tiny area around the town of Boca in the Alto Piemonte region of Italy, this is a traditional blend of indigenous varieties. Made with predominantly Nebbiolo for its structure and aromatics, Vespolina and Uva Rara add freshness and interesting varietal notes. A dark core with aromas of forest fruits and earth gives way to a full-bodied, lively palate with balsamic notes, blueberries and wild herbs. There’s a hint of wood and spice on the finish. Drink with a ragù, roast game or wild mushroom risotto. Drink now to 2030.
Matt Smith, Buyer (autumn 2019)
Matt Smith, Buyer (autumn 2019)
Marcarini, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
This is a new wine for Marcarini, using selections from the crus La Serra and Brunate. The effect is to intensify the two senior wines, of which the production is now smaller. Think of this a little like a “second wine”. It sees a lighter maceration, but is aged exactly like the crus, with 24 months in large old botte. The 2015 has a fine, creamy texture and a deep, satisfying finish. Drink 2022-2035.
Antonio Vallana e Figlio,
Ready, but will keep,
Gattinara is the king of the Alto Piemonte region. It is always 100% Nebbiolo, produced only in the town of Gattinara, on the western side of the River Sesia. The grapes are hand-picked in the first half of October and then vinified in large cement tanks, before spending at least two years in large oak barrels. It takes a few years in bottle to fully develop its potential. Dark cherry fruits mingle with balsamic notes and hints of earth and game. This is a brooding wine of fantastic intensity, which also maintains excellent composure through its refreshing acidity and finely honed tannins. A treat with roast game or wild mushroom dishes. Drink now to 2035.
Matt Smith, Buyer (autumn 2019)
Matt Smith, Buyer (autumn 2019)
Marcarini, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
This was bottled last July, like the commune wine above. The stricter fruit selection has reduced volumes from around 20,000 bottles to 8,000 this year, but the sensory uplift is palpable. It offers floral notes and an interesting balsam aroma, with a very good grip on the palate. It’s unsurprisingly tight on the palate now, but the finish is sweetly poised. Drink 2024-2040.
Francesco Versio,
Ready, but will improve,
Francesco made a total of just 3,500 bottles of his 2016 Barbaresco, using one 20-hectolitre botte and one French tonneau in his parents’ garage in Nieve. The 2016 vintage was stunning for Nebbiolo across the Langhe. The quality, ripeness and depth of fruit Francesco harvested was treated to an extended maceration of 35 days. Still produced primarily from his San Cristoforo vineyard, 2016 is the first vintage Francesco has also blended in fruit from another Nieve vineyard, Cotta. This sandy site contributes a plush, bramble fleshiness and spice, which beautifully balances the sinewy, coiled structure coming from the calcareous mineral-rich San Cristoforo vineyard. Drink 2024-2040.
Marcarini, Piedmont,
For laying down,
This was also bottled last July but won’t be shipped until September 2019. Volumes are also much reduced with stricter fruit selection, cutting production from around 24,000 bottles to 9,000. Manuel compares the 2015 to ’10, ’06 and ’04, describing it as a vintage of elegance, being neither too hot nor cold, and effortless ripening. With a fabulous attack and intensity, this is rounder and more voluminous than La Serra. The tannins are enticing; fine, ripe and sensual. Drink 2025-2045.
Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
This wine is a bin-end, discounted by 20%.
Named after Davide’s mother, this is no ordinary Langhe Nebbiolo. Giovanni Rosso owns just over a hectare in the legendary Vigna Rionda cru. In 2011 Davide replanted two thirds of this vineyard which had become exhausted, preserving the remaining healthy 70-year-old vines for his iconic Barolo Vigna Rionda. The fruit for this wine comes from those replanted, young vines. The result is a serious wine befitting its vineyard heritage, with a dark core of blueberries, dark cherries and spice, and grippy tannins. Drink 2020-2035.
Matt Smith, Buyer (March 2019)
Davide Rosso makes this Langhe Nebbiolo from the younger vines in Vigna Rionda – one of Barolo, and indeed Piedmont’s, very best vineyards. Vigna Rionda is to Serralunga d’Alba what La Romanée-Conti is to Vosne-Romanée.
This “entry-level” expression offers a “mini” Vigna Rionda Barolo – with pretty aromas of strawberry, cassis and raspberry. Cool and crunchy fruit fills the palate, which is focused and energetic, with lively acidity, silky tannins and a captivating nervosity. Poised, with a saline finish – this is a remarkable expression of a truly special vineyard. Drink now to 2025.
Named after Davide’s mother, this is no ordinary Langhe Nebbiolo. Giovanni Rosso owns just over a hectare in the legendary Vigna Rionda cru. In 2011 Davide replanted two thirds of this vineyard which had become exhausted, preserving the remaining healthy 70-year-old vines for his iconic Barolo Vigna Rionda. The fruit for this wine comes from those replanted, young vines. The result is a serious wine befitting its vineyard heritage, with a dark core of blueberries, dark cherries and spice, and grippy tannins. Drink 2020-2035.
Matt Smith, Buyer (March 2019)
Davide Rosso makes this Langhe Nebbiolo from the younger vines in Vigna Rionda – one of Barolo, and indeed Piedmont’s, very best vineyards. Vigna Rionda is to Serralunga d’Alba what La Romanée-Conti is to Vosne-Romanée.
This “entry-level” expression offers a “mini” Vigna Rionda Barolo – with pretty aromas of strawberry, cassis and raspberry. Cool and crunchy fruit fills the palate, which is focused and energetic, with lively acidity, silky tannins and a captivating nervosity. Poised, with a saline finish – this is a remarkable expression of a truly special vineyard. Drink now to 2025.
Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont,
For laying down,
The Cerretta vines sit between 320 and 450 metres above sea-level on the eastern extremities of the Barolo area. The soils are mixed limestone and clay which give more plump and ripe styles compared to the mineral finesse of Davide’s other Serralunga sites. Three years in French botti grandi have polished these fine tannins which are as smooth as china, while the fruit is bright, fleshy, plummy and expansive. Drink 2020-2040.
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer
Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont,
For laying down,
Terrifyingly steep and totally calcareous soils make up this special vineyard, which perches in front of the Giovanni Rosso winery between 350 to 390 metres’ altitude. A stone’s throw across the road lies Vigna Rionda, the most prized vineyard in Barolo. The nose is brimming with bramble, crushed stone and floral highlights, inviting and electric. The palate is poised, linear and crunchy; saline minerality carries a wash of bright red and black berry fruits, pricked with fine oak spice and savoury charm. Ceramic-like tannins are both silky and chewy. Drink 2020-2038.
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer
Davy Zyw, Wine Buyer
Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont,
For laying down,
Davide owns 2.5 hectares on the southeast-facing side of this cru. The sun only hits this site in the morning, producing wines often lighter in colour than his others. The soils are rich in clay, giving more generosity to this expression of Serralunga. Bright and red-fruited, there’s an appealing lift of spice on the nose, with a rich, fleshy, enveloping palate of red cherry and herbs. It’s very pure and focused, with supple and honed tannins. Drink 2024-2040.
Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont,
For laying down,
Serra, lying a stone’s throw from the Rosso winery, is one of the coldest vineyards in Serralunga, east-facing and terrifyingly steep. The combination of poor, calcareous soil and its easterly exposition gives wines of incredible finesse which are often austere and structural in youth. The 2015 is typical of the vineyard, with a very bright, almost crunchy profile. Sour cherry and balsamic notes give way to savoury, meaty flavours and fine, porcelain tannins. Drink 2024- 2040.
Davy zyw, Wine Buyer