Barbaresco
The Piedmontese DOCG zone of Barbaresco is responsible for some of Italy’s finest wines. It occupies the same region and uses the same grape (Nebbiolo) as Barolo, but is a third of the size (only 640 hectares versus Barolo’s 1,700 hectares). It is also 50 years younger, having produced wine labelled Barbaresco since 1890. It earned its DOCG in 1980, largely thanks to the efforts of Angelo Gaja.
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Bruno Giacosa,
Ready, but will keep,
This is the exciting new wine being presented by the Bruno Giacosa estate this year. The 2013 Barbaresco Rabajà comes from a half-hectare parcel purchased by Bruna Giacosa (Bruno's daughter) in 2013. Past incarnations of this wine were made with fruit that has now become part of the Asili cru under the revised map of vineyard crus. In other words, the name of the wine is technically the same, but the grapes used to make it are sourced from a different place starting with this vintage. This is a darkly enriched expression with ample power and muscle. The bouquet pours forth a beautiful array of dark fruit aromas with spice, smoke, laurel leaf and balsam herb. There's even a touch of aged cheddar or pecorino cheese that adds a spicy or piquant touch to the finish.
Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate (summer 2017)
Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate (summer 2017)
Gaja,
Drink now,
The complexity of this classic Barbaresco is the result of combining Nebbiolo from 14 estate-owned vineyards. A wine of infinite finesse, it displays the hallmark Barbaresco nose of forest fruits, plums, licorice, mineral notes, coffee and tar. Gaja Barbaresco is known for its dense structure, full-bodied and complex finish rich in silky tannins. Each Gaja Barbaresco is the expression of its vintage and has a long ageing potential.
Gaja,
Ready, but will keep,
From a cooler, hillside site to the southeast of the appellation with heavier clay and limestone soils. This expresses a cooler style of Nebbiolo, leaning towards a Pinot Noir flavour profile. It has a floral character with a gorgeous perfume of citrus notes and raspberries. Pure red berry sweetness with succulent, juicy acidity and racy tannins. Stunningly elegant, this is delicious and desirable now. Wonderful to drink or keep. Aged in 30% new oak.
John Stimpfig - Decanter 25/09/18
John Stimpfig - Decanter 25/09/18
Gaja,
Ready, but will improve,
Lustrous mid ruby. Quite intense nose of red fruit and oak and perfectly integrated. Still quite closed and backward on the palate with bags of powdery tannins. Powerful structure on the finish. Very long and balanced, yet undeniably oaky for the moment.
Walter Speller - jancisrobinson.com, Oct 2016
Walter Speller - jancisrobinson.com, Oct 2016
Bruno Giacosa,
Ready, but will improve,
A real triumph: this has elegant, cool, red fruit with notes of mint and coffee on the nose. It is sumptuous and mouth-filling, yet still retaining amazing elegance and coolness. Terrifically complex with notes of red summer fruits, grilled meats, smoke, chocolate and herbs among many others. The finish is long and fine.
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
This is made with 55-year-old vine fruit from an exquisite site, right in the heart of a natural amphitheatre close to the village of Barbaresco itself, the soil rich in chalk. Blood-red colour, the nose seduces, as always, with gorgeous, sweet raspberry, kirsch cassis, a hedonistic, velvety texture – held tight with sinewy structure. The palate swells with sumptuous fruit, yet it is chalky and pure, sensational, with such detail – brimming with superlatives.
The father and son team of Alfredo and Luca Roagna are celebrating the completion of their new cantina in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of La Pira vineyard, a prime location they’ve owned since 1989, but had bought fruit from since the 1950s. Both in their Barolo and Barbaresco estates (15 hectares in total), they pride themselves on their organic, grassed-over vineyards. They’re fortunate to have a wealth of oldvine fruit at their disposal which, of course, they vinify traditionally with extended maceration in large oak barrels.
The father and son team of Alfredo and Luca Roagna are celebrating the completion of their new cantina in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of La Pira vineyard, a prime location they’ve owned since 1989, but had bought fruit from since the 1950s. Both in their Barolo and Barbaresco estates (15 hectares in total), they pride themselves on their organic, grassed-over vineyards. They’re fortunate to have a wealth of oldvine fruit at their disposal which, of course, they vinify traditionally with extended maceration in large oak barrels.
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
The estate's most prized wine comes from a perfectly situated 0.52-hectare corner of the Pajé vineyard in the village of Barbaresco, whose old-vine fruit somehow conjures a wine of unbelievable beauty – especially with the superlative 2006 vintage behind it. In a word, sensational; this has cool raspberry and mulberry, the fruit's natural expression undimmed by eight years’ élévage. It seems to possess the same profound, deeprooted complexity enjoyed by the likes of Monfortino; yet it's more porcelain, more delicate and ethereal given its Barbaresco (and Roagna) DNA. Rose-water pure, with such harmony and purity, this is ‘drop-dead' gorgeous.
The father and son team of Alfredo and Luca Roagna are celebrating the completion of their new cantina in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of La Pira vineyard, a prime location they’ve owned since 1989, but had bought fruit from since the 1950s. Both in their Barolo and Barbaresco estates (15 hectares in total), they pride themselves on their organic, grassed-over vineyards. They’re fortunate to have a wealth of oldvine fruit at their disposal which, of course, they vinify traditionally with extended maceration in large oak barrels.
The father and son team of Alfredo and Luca Roagna are celebrating the completion of their new cantina in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of La Pira vineyard, a prime location they’ve owned since 1989, but had bought fruit from since the 1950s. Both in their Barolo and Barbaresco estates (15 hectares in total), they pride themselves on their organic, grassed-over vineyards. They’re fortunate to have a wealth of oldvine fruit at their disposal which, of course, they vinify traditionally with extended maceration in large oak barrels.
Cascina Luisin, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
The 2011 vintage is the first release of the Minuto family’s Barbaresco Asili, from their tiny handkerchief square of vines (0.6 hectares), comprising 55-year-old vines. There is more sand in Asili, contributing a fine texture, along with mentholated, ripe, small, strawberry fruit. It's so pretty, so suave, with impeccable lines, and quasi-perfect balance; a joy, but still in its relative youth. It should age beautifully if you can wait.
One of the oldest, and finest Barbaresco estates, Cascina Luisin is located close to the village itself, overlooking its prime vineyard of Rabajà. Son Roberto is gradually filling the shoes of his father Luigi Minuto: there has been a renovation of the large oak botti, with Austrian Stockinger oak, along with a new family reserves cellar for all those magnificent old bottles. Alongside the pretty Barbaresco Paolin and more structured Rabajà, this year we are offering the first release of their old-vine Asili.
One of the oldest, and finest Barbaresco estates, Cascina Luisin is located close to the village itself, overlooking its prime vineyard of Rabajà. Son Roberto is gradually filling the shoes of his father Luigi Minuto: there has been a renovation of the large oak botti, with Austrian Stockinger oak, along with a new family reserves cellar for all those magnificent old bottles. Alongside the pretty Barbaresco Paolin and more structured Rabajà, this year we are offering the first release of their old-vine Asili.
Cascina Luisin, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
From the heavy marne soils overlooking the Tanaro river below, Rabajà is one of Barbaresco's top vineyards, a Grand Cru in all but name. The Minuto family have a couple of parcels, both facing south-west, so catching the afternoon warmth. Thank goodness then in 2011 for the refreshing, air-conditioning breezes that spiralled up from the river, fanning the fruit. Bottled in August 2014, from vines with an average 35 years in age, the colour alone conjures up rich, red sunsets. A bigger presence than the more delicate Asili, Rabajà is emphatic, still brooding in youth but promising much in the years to come. Cool feet, swollen summer fruit, it's a wine with more structure, so should age well.
One of the oldest, and finest Barbaresco estates, Cascina Luisin is located close to the village itself, overlooking its prime vineyard of Rabajà. Son Roberto is gradually filling the shoes of his father Luigi Minuto: there has been a renovation of the large oak botti, with Austrian Stockinger oak, along with a new family reserves cellar for all those magnificent old bottles. Alongside the pretty Barbaresco Paolin and more structured Rabajà, this year we are offering the first release of their old-vine Asili.
One of the oldest, and finest Barbaresco estates, Cascina Luisin is located close to the village itself, overlooking its prime vineyard of Rabajà. Son Roberto is gradually filling the shoes of his father Luigi Minuto: there has been a renovation of the large oak botti, with Austrian Stockinger oak, along with a new family reserves cellar for all those magnificent old bottles. Alongside the pretty Barbaresco Paolin and more structured Rabajà, this year we are offering the first release of their old-vine Asili.
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
Only about 1,500 bottles were made from Roagna's south-west-facing plot that adjoins that of Bruno Giacosa. The sandy talc element of the calcareous soil gives an intriguing clementine-skin character, along with rose-petal purity. Crunchy-cool poise, packed with harmonious detail, a glint of kirsch cassis and red cherry-stone, impeccably dressed; it sets the pulse racing.
The father and son team of Alfredo and Luca Roagna are celebrating the completion of their new cantina in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of La Pira vineyard, a prime location they’ve owned since 1989, but had bought fruit from since the 1950s. Both in their Barolo and Barbaresco estates (15 hectares in total), they pride themselves on their organic, grassed-over vineyards. They’re fortunate to have a wealth of oldvine fruit at their disposal which, of course, they vinify traditionally with extended maceration in large oak barrels.
The father and son team of Alfredo and Luca Roagna are celebrating the completion of their new cantina in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of La Pira vineyard, a prime location they’ve owned since 1989, but had bought fruit from since the 1950s. Both in their Barolo and Barbaresco estates (15 hectares in total), they pride themselves on their organic, grassed-over vineyards. They’re fortunate to have a wealth of oldvine fruit at their disposal which, of course, they vinify traditionally with extended maceration in large oak barrels.
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
Also produced in tiny quantities, as all Roagna old-vine wines naturally are, the Pajé version remains true to the bright, cherry-red intensity of the denominazione (versus the paler colour for Barolo): it's open-hearted, engaging with joyful tea-leaf freshness, fabulous tension, fleet of foot, with ballerina poise and balance – a pearl of sweet red cassis.
The father and son team of Alfredo and Luca Roagna are celebrating the completion of their new cantina in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of La Pira vineyard, a prime location they’ve owned since 1989, but had bought fruit from since the 1950s. Both in their Barolo and Barbaresco estates (15 hectares in total), they pride themselves on their organic, grassed-over vineyards. They’re fortunate to have a wealth of oldvine fruit at their disposal which, of course, they vinify traditionally with extended maceration in large oak barrels.
The father and son team of Alfredo and Luca Roagna are celebrating the completion of their new cantina in Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of La Pira vineyard, a prime location they’ve owned since 1989, but had bought fruit from since the 1950s. Both in their Barolo and Barbaresco estates (15 hectares in total), they pride themselves on their organic, grassed-over vineyards. They’re fortunate to have a wealth of oldvine fruit at their disposal which, of course, they vinify traditionally with extended maceration in large oak barrels.
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will keep,
This is Alfredo and Luca's flagship (Barbaresco) wine, here expressing the sunny 2005 vintage: from the oldest vines that lie in a tiny, 0.5ha, sunny corner of the vineyard, perfectly expoused on a slight rise - 'Crichet' means 'little hill' in dialect. It's in a different league compared to their Paje and Paje VV: more focus, poise, compact and detail. Pale strawberry red, it enthralls with delicate, hallucinating perfumes of warm straw spice, of tiny red berries, full of sunshine, it's so beautiful and radiant, not dissimilar to 2011. Endless.
David Berry Green
David Berry Green
Punset, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
We love the way Marina’s wines stay true to their provenance and vintage, clearly highlighting the differences and making them a delight to drink. The 2011 Campo Quadro is a case in point: the baked camphor, potpourri, dates and dried herbal notes recall the hot, dry 2011 vintage perfectly.
Yet the San Cristoforo Campo Quadro vineyard has kept its head, being that much more elevated, revealing a juicy, strawberry core of “sweet” red fruit, freshness and a slightly lower alcohol level than one might expect. This is aged in tonneaux and barriques, none new.
Drink 2016-2026.
Yet the San Cristoforo Campo Quadro vineyard has kept its head, being that much more elevated, revealing a juicy, strawberry core of “sweet” red fruit, freshness and a slightly lower alcohol level than one might expect. This is aged in tonneaux and barriques, none new.
Drink 2016-2026.
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
Roagna’s tiny plot was acquired in 1971, with Luca releasing it properly from 2004. It’s one of Barbaresco’s most celebrated expressions, from calcareous, sand and silty soils on a well-ventilated hillock, south-west facing, not far from the Tanaro river. Pale, bright and red-rose in colour, the nose thrills with a mass of tiny red berries, raspberry ripple, wild strawberry and white stone notes. It’s juicy, possessing natural balance, backed by limestone tannins, driven by great energy and pace. This needs a few years to reveal all, but is such an exciting prospect.
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
Deeper in colour than the lighter, more accessible Pajé, the Vecchie Viti is a wine from 70-plus-year-old vines which you feel you could dive into. It’s got wonderful pace as well as richer fruit; the generosity of Nebbiolo fruit is balanced by salty minerality and underpinned by fabulous terroir. Wow. This needs time to unfurl.
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
Despite being from the same Barbaresco village as Roagna’s Asili, the Montefico could not be more different. Where Asili brims with wild strawberries and dainty red fruit, Montefico is squarer and more masculine, with a darker colour and bigger muscles. It has great presence on the nose, which is velvety and mulberry in character. From an exquisite, old-vine triangle, mid-slope and full-south facing, Montefico is built on white tufo rock, giving tannic power and plenty of sweet fruit. A sleeping giant.
Gaja,
Ready, but will improve,
Mid ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Deep cherry nose with an exotic spice edge. Rusty nail and orange-skin hints. Perfectly integrated oak, but really backward on the palate. Near perfect balance between fruit and acidity, but the tannic load needs to integrate further. I’d wait a couple of years for the dust to settle.
Walter Speller - jancisrobinson.com, Oct 2016
Walter Speller - jancisrobinson.com, Oct 2016
Roagna, Piedmont,
Ready, but will improve,
This tiny vineyard of old vines was a wedding gift to Luca's grandmother in 1929. Spice, small red berry fruit and cherry stone lace the nose and palate. Toned and expansive, the depth of fruit is supported by fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Refined with deceptive power. Drink from 2026+.
Kattherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer
Kattherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer
Katherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer