2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Le Secret, Domaine Roger Sabon

2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Le Secret, Domaine Roger Sabon

Product: 20091170487
2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Le Secret, Domaine Roger Sabon

Description

Jean-Jacques Sabon and his loquacious winemaker son-in-law Didier Negron farm seventeen hectares of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their thirteen parcels yield four impressively diverse cuvées of which Le Secret is recognised as one of the greatest wines in the whole appellation. The house philosophy is built upon a regime of lengthy macerations allied to gentle extractions of fruit. Didier, rather unusually, compares 2009 with 2006, but underlines that the current vintage has more power and ageing potential.

The Chteauneuf-du-Pape Le Secret cuvée is dominated by Grenache, but it is a fairly open secret that the most of the remainder is old-vine Mourvèdre. The quality of the fruit is outstanding and in no way undermines the rich, creamy texture of the wine with its finely-honed and outstandingly pure tannins. This is superb.
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About this WINE

Domaine Roger Sabon

Domaine Roger Sabon

Roger Sabon is described by Robert Parker as "one of the more intellectual vignerons in Châteauneuf du-Pape".

His vineyard holdings are surprisingly small, around 14 hectares, which are divided between his properties in Lirac, Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Cotes du Rhône. The Châteauneuf vineyards are well situated in Les Cabrieres, La Crau, Courtherzon and Nalys and the average age of his vines is unusually high with some of them dating back to the early 1900s.

The general cepage is made up of 70% Grenache although this is reduced in his top two cuvées, the Cuvee Reservee and he Cuvée Prestige. Roger Sabon is a traditionalist and prefers to age his wines in small oak piece, none of which are new, for six months following a sojourn en cuve. He places great emphasis upon elegance rather than power in his wines and in youth his wine can be deceiving.

With time, however, they grow and gain in depth and complexity and are some of the finest Châteauneufs being produced today.

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Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the largest and most important wine appellation in the southern Rhône. It is home to more than 3,200 hectares of vineyards and over 80 growers; more wine is produced in Châteauneuf than the whole of the northern Rhône put together. The vineyards are bounded to the west by the Rhône river and to the east by the A7 autoroute.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the first ever Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée established in France, in 1932. Small, rounded rocks from the ancient river bed known as galets roulés are a key aspect of what makes Châteauneuf -du-Pape wines so distinctive, with the rocks reflecting heat back into the vines at night, thus increasing ripeness and reducing acidity.

The gloriously rich red wines, redolent of the heat and herbs of the south, are enhanced by the complexity which comes from blending several grape varieties. Fourteen are permitted for reds: GrenacheMouvedreSyrah, Cinsault, Vaccarese, Counoise, Teret Noir, Muscadin, Picpoul Noir, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, Picpoul Gris and Picardin. With red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Grenache typically dominates with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support.

White Châteauneuf-du-Pape is becoming increasingly sought-after, even though it represents less than 10 percent of the total production. Here, five grapes are permitted: Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Picardin.

Recommended Producers: Château de Beaucastel, Clos de Papes, Vieux Télégraphe, Château Rayas,, Domaine de la Charbonnière, Sabon, Château La Nerthe, Domaine Perrin

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Southern Rhône Blend

Southern Rhône Blend

The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.

The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.

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Reviews

Customer reviews

The Wine Advocate95/100
Jancis18/20

Critic reviews

The Wine Advocate95/100
Similar to the 2011, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret du Sabon sports a big, full-bodied and mouthfilling profile to go with ripe blackberry, kirsch, flowers, licorice and earth-like aromas and flavors. Although showing incredibly well on release, and also at this tasting, I've had a few disappointing bottles of this from my cellar. Nevertheless, all of the wines have been fabulously concentrated and rich, so I suspect it just needs another year or two in the cellar.
Jeb Dunnuck - 28/08/2014 Read more
Jancis18/20
Warm, integrated nose. Quite subtle tar and liquorice nose without any particular heat. Well-integrated palate. Very well behaved! Good balance. Really rather sophisticated. Dry but not drying finish.
(Jancis Robinson MW , Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com - 17 Nov 2010) Read more