2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Domaine des Saumades, Rhône
Critics reviews
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate #209, Oct 2013
About this WINE
Domaine Des Saumades
Four generations of Moussets have been winemakers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. However, in 1995, Frank Mousset, whose day job is at another winery with his brother-in-law, was approached to buy a 2.5-hectare parcel in the Pignan lieu-dit, beside Château Rayas. Franck and wife Murielle, then opened Domaine des Saumades, only making wine here.
The sandy soils here are perfect for Grenache. Franck also had the foresight to plant Mourvèdre here around six years ago. He believes Mourvèdre is key to countering the effects of climate change on Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s wines. Adding freshness, balance and Franck says, getting better annually in this parcel (currently, converting to organic certification). Since 2019 he has added 10% Mourvèdre into his otherwise pure Grenache red wine. The wines were very good but, with Mourvèdre, they are stunning. The white, typically 50% Grenache Blanc, 25% Clairette and 25% Bourboulenc, displays myriad flavours from fresh citrus to warming vanilla. This is what Châteauneuf-du-Pape is all about.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The most celebrated village of the Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the birthplace of the now indispensable French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system – imperfect though it may be. Compared to the Northern Rhône, the vineyards here are relatively flat and often feature the iconic galet pebbles – the precise benefits of which are a source of much debate. Minimum alcohol levels required by the AOC are the highest in France, but at 12.5% it is well below the natural generosity of Grenache, which only achieves its full aromatic potential when it is fully ripe and laden with the resultant high sugars. Syrah and Mourvèdre contribute the other defining elements in the blend, adding pepper, savoury spice and structure to the decadent Grenache. There are a further 10 permitted red grape varieties which can be used to adjust the “seasoning”. Of the five white varieties permitted, it is Grenache Noir’s sibling – predictably perhaps – Grenache Blanc, which dominates, though Roussanne shows a great deal of promise when handled well, notably at Château de Beaucastel.
Other Varieties
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
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Description
Grenache, for once, maintains its dominance in this blend, with 25% each of Clairette and Bourboulenc completing the picture. Aged for a year in vat, the wine rejoices in the exuberance that seems to mark out this vintage, but with plenty of texture and depth, no doubt contributed by the Grenache Blanc.
Simon Field MW, Rhône Wine Buyer
A mere 2.5 hectares and located on sandy soils adjacent to Rayas, Domaine des Saumades is small but perfectly situated. With Chateau des Fines Roches previously in the family and Clos St Michel currently run by Franck and his brother, the Moussets are a local institution. The inverse relationship between size and quality is perfectly illustrated in 2012.
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