2017 Grands-Echézeaux, Grand Cru, Georges Noëllat, Burgundy
Critics reviews
A deft application of wood frames the spicy if restrained aromas of plum and various dark berries along with hints of exotic tea and sandalwood. The rich, intense and muscular larger-scaled flavors possess excellent punch while the detailed and linear finish is a bit lean and dry. It could be the effects of the recent bottling but it would be fair to say that the balance isn't quite as well dialed in.
Drink from 2032 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (January 2020)
The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru has a very pure, intense bouquet of dark cherries, blackberry, crushed stone and violet aromas, actually more understated but more sophisticated than the Echézeaux. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannin, a fine bead of acidity, sorbet-fresh black fruit and a vivacious, tensile finish. This is a superb Grands-Echézeaux from winemaker Maxime Cheurlin.
Drink 2023 - 2040
Neal Martin, Vinous.com (November 2018)
An extravagant bouquet of blackberries, plums, incense, rose petals and wood smoke introduces the 2017 Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and multidimensional wine that's nicely concentrated and complete, its structuring tannins generously cloaked in juicy fruit, its finish long and precise. This year, Cheurlin vinified the two parts of his Grands Echezeaux separately but concluded—predictably, we agreed—that the whole was more interesting than the sum of the parts.
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (January 2019)
Made from a 0.4ha parcel of very old vines and aged like the domaine's Échézeaux in 100% new wood, this is another triumph from an extravagantly talented young winemaker. It's weighty and serious, with plenty of underlying fruit power, scented oak and a smooth, caressing finish. One of the best expressions of the site in 2017.
Drink 2022 - 2032
Tim Atkin MW, Decanter.com (November 2018)
About this WINE
Domaine Georges Noëllat
Domaine Georges Noëllat, nestled in the heart of Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy, carries a rich history. Georges Noëllat, the nephew of Charles Noëllat, once owned one of Vosne’s most esteemed domaines. Over time, the domaine’s influence extended to Domaines Jean-Jacques Confuron and Hudelot Noëllat, and it even formed the majority of Domaine Leroy. In 2010, the reins passed to Maxime Cheurlin, a young winemaker with a passion for tradition and innovation.
The 5.5-hectare estate encompasses profound terroirs in Vosne-Romanée and northern Nuits-Saint Georges. Maxime inherited ancient vines, their roots deeply embedded in the Burgundian soil. His viticultural approach follows lutte raisonnée, where treatments are judiciously applied only when necessary. These old vines demand special care, and Maxime ensures their preservation.
Maxime’s winemaking philosophy centres on elegance and purity. Grapes are meticulously hand-harvested, often 100% de-stemmed (with occasional whole-cluster inclusion), and cool macerated. The choice of new oak varies, tailored to each appellation and vintage. Ageing occurs over 14 to 20 months, and the wines are typically bottled without fining or filtration.
Wine critics recognise the finesse of Domaine Georges Noëllat’s Pinot Noir. Allen Meadows (Burghound) describes them as “delicate” yet beautifully balanced, reflecting their underlying terroirs. Neal Martin (Vinous) acknowledges the immense potential of Maxime’s winemaking.
Grands Echézeaux
Located in the larger Côte de Nuits sub-region of Burgundy, Grands Échezeaux is renowned for producing exceptional Pinot Noir wines with a rich history and a reputation for elegance and complexity.
The vineyard benefits from a diverse terroir that includes variations in soil types, exposure to sunlight, and elevation, contributing to the complexity and character of the wines produced here. It is divided among several wine producers, each with a distinct style and approach to winemaking. Some of the most notable producers include Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret, Domaine Anne Gros, and Domaine de la Vougeraie.
The wines are known for their depth, complexity, and elegance. They often exhibit a dark ruby colour and aromas of red and black fruits, such as cherries, raspberries, and sometimes even darker notes, like blackberries. Floral notes, earthy undertones, and subtle spices are also commonly found in these wines. They typically offer a harmonious balance of fruit, acidity, and refined tannins on the palate, allowing them to age gracefully over time.
Like many premium Burgundy wines, Grands Échezeaux has the potential to age and develop beautifully over the years. Properly cellared bottles can evolve to reveal more complex and nuanced characteristics, making them highly sought-after.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
A deft application of wood frames the spicy if restrained aromas of plum and various dark berries along with hints of exotic tea and sandalwood. The rich, intense and muscular larger-scaled flavors possess excellent punch while the detailed and linear finish is a bit lean and dry. It could be the effects of the recent bottling but it would be fair to say that the balance isn't quite as well dialed in.
Drink from 2032 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (January 2020)
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