2019 St Nicolas de Bourgueil, Les Rouillères, Frédéric Mabileau, Loire

Frédéric Mabileau

Situated in the village of Saint-Nicolas-De-Bourgueil, Domaine Frédéric Mabileau is a byword for biodynamic and organic viticulture. The estate was created by Frédéric and his wife Nathalie when they struck out separately from Frédéric’s parents in 1991. Beginning with just 3 hectares of rented vines, the couple built up the estate over several decades until the tragic death of Frédéric on the eve of the 2020 harvest.

The locals rallied around to help with picking that vintage, and his sons – Rémy, who had been working by his side for several years, and Charly, who was running a restaurant in Bordeaux – along with Frédéric’s wife, Nathalie, took over the reins permanently. The spirit of Frédéric’s inexhaustible enthusiasm for experimentation and progressiveness lives on. For Frédéric, the choice to farm biodynamically was not an end; instead, it allowed the wines to reflect the terroir more effectively.

This also meant no yeasts were added in the cellar, relying only on naturally occurring yeasts to start fermentation. In their view, this enhances the “sense of place” of these wines. New parcels have recently been added to bring the holdings to 35 hectares, of which 11 are in Anjou and 24 in Saint-Nicolas and Bourgueil. An ambitious new cellar project was completed in 2020, along with an on-site restaurant, Chez Odette, run by Charly.

Anjou-Saumur

Anjou-Saumur is a Mid-west Loire region most famous for the fine sweet Chenin Blanc wines of Bonnezeaux, Coteaux du Layon (including the exemplary - if tiny- Quarts de Chaume appellation) and Coteaux de l'Aubance. 

The bulk of the wines produced in the Anjou region comprise the bland `Rosé d'Anjou' (made from the Grolleau grape) and marginally better Cabernet d'Anjou; Some smoky dry Anjou Chenin Blanc also produced. 

The Saumur region's bread and butter is its Mousseux, while it also produces some dry Saumur Chenin (similar to Anjou's version) and some impressive Cabernet Franc, chalky dry thanks to the `tuffeau' soils.

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc is widely planted in Bordeaux and is the most important black grape grown in the Loire. In the Médoc it may constitute up to 15% of a typical vineyard - it is always blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and is used to add bouquet and complexity to the wines. It is more widely used in St.Emilion where it adapts well to the cooler and moister clay soils - Cheval Blanc is the most famous Cabernet Franc wine in the world, with the final blend consisting of up to 65% of the grape.

Cabernet Franc thrives in the Loire where the cooler growing conditions serve to accentuate the grape's herbaceous, grassy, lead pencil aromas. The best wines come from the tuffeaux limestone slopes of Chinon and Bourgeil where growers such as Jacky Blot produce intense well-structured wines that possess excellent cellaring potential.