2020 Anjou Blanc, Grandes Rogeries, Terra Vita Vinum, Loire
Critics reviews
The Grandes Rogeries is a distinctive, ambitious wine, and the 2020 vintage is no different. It is a wild fermented, bone-dry wine that spends 26 months in demi-muids creating a reductive, flinty style with smoked bacon and nut-like flavors. While light-bodied, it really packs a punch thanks to its intense concentration and fierce sense of energy and tightness, which I can only put down to its volcanic origins. It's a smart, serious wine, and fans of flinty Chardonnay could be turned on to Chenin. Hugely young, please lay this down before cracking the cork.
Drink 2024 - 2038
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (October 2023)
Certified biodynamic (Biodyvin). Chenin Blanc on volcanic soils. 26 months in demi-muids, some new.
This is marked by both the volcanic soils – smoky, creamy, deep and powerful – and real tension in the texture. Deep and sour-fresh. Very powerful. Immense persistence.
Drink 2024 - 2035
Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com (April 2023)
About this WINE
Terra Vita Vinum
Located just south of Angers in Mozé-sur-Louet, the Anjou Noir part of Anjou-Saumur, Terra Vita Vinum boasts 30 hectares of vineyards planted on dark schist and granite soils. Bénédicte Petit and Luc Briand took over the Estate from the Richou family in 2019, from which point their sole focus was to make some of the most terroir expressive Chenin Blanc wines.
All farmed biodynamically (Demeter certified), Terra Vita Vinum’s philosophy is low interventionist winemaking for the vineyards to speak for themselves - ‘We do everything possible to produce terroir wines with the greatest transparency to deliver unique emotions’. Only natural yeast found on the grapes are used for fermentation, conducted in many different types of vessels ranging from demi-muid, concrete egg, and amphora. Very little use of SO2 and no filtering and fining completes the winemaking. Their top cuvees are only released three years after harvest, half of this time spent maturing in the bottle.
The Estate has three ranges of cuvees intertwined with many grape varieties ranging from age-worthy Chenin Blanc to Grolleau, Gamay, Savagnin, Cabernet Franc, and a few others! Their Selections Parcellaires range is the focus today, with Chenin Blanc being their flagship varietal expressed through five different cuvees – Bigottière (Savennières AOC), Grandes Rogeries, Pavillon, Le Réau, and Grand Vau, all four in Anjou Blanc AOC. Cabernet Franc and Gamay are the stars for their red cuvees. It is a young project that already has a cult following and is becoming a favourite for Sommeliers worldwide.
Anjou-Blanc
Anjou Blanc is a type of wine produced in the Anjou wine region of the Loire Valley in France. The Anjou region is known for its broad spectrum of wines, including red, white, and rosé produced with varying sweetness levels.
Anjou Blanc is typically made from the Chenin Blanc grape, known locally as Pineau de la Loire. This grape is used for dry, sweet, still, and sparkling wines. The wine is sourced from vineyards that fall along the border of the two sub-regions of Anjou.
The region is geographically divided into two dominant profiles based on soil types. The first of these, “Anjou Blanc,” lies west of the appellation, where chalky limestone soils impart a lighter, more energetic expression of Chenin Blanc.
Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is an important white grape variety planted in the Anjou-Saumur and Touraine regions of the Loire Valley and the most widely planted varietal grape in South Africa.
In the Loire it produces high quality dry wines in Savenniéres, and luscious sweet, dessert wines in Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume. In Vouvray and Montlouis it can be dry, medium dry, or sweet, and still or sparkling. Whether dry or sweet, the best Loire Chenin Blancs possess marvellously concentrated rich, honeyed fruit together with refreshingly vibrant acidity. It is Chenin Blanc's high acidity that enable the wines to age so well.
In South Africa Chenin Blanc is easier to grow and is prized for its versatility. It is used as a cheap blending option with Chardonnay, Colombard, and Muscat but also bottled unblended. The best producers keep their yields low and produce impressive mouthfilling wines.
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Description
The Grandes Rogeries is a distinctive, ambitious wine, and the 2020 vintage is no different. It is a wild fermented, bone-dry wine that spends 26 months in demi-muids creating a reductive, flinty style with smoked bacon and nut-like flavors. While light-bodied, it really packs a punch thanks to its intense concentration and fierce sense of energy and tightness, which I can only put down to its volcanic origins. It's a smart, serious wine, and fans of flinty Chardonnay could be turned on to Chenin. Hugely young, please lay this down before cracking the cork.
Drink 2024 - 2038
Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com (October 2023)
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