Here an equally restrained nose reluctantly offers up its mix of very spicy, indeed unusually so, red and dark berries that are laced with hints of forest floor and just turned earth. There is a first-rate intensity to the precise and tautly muscular flavours shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins on the compact, linear, slightly lean finish.
I suspect this will eventually flesh out if given time, but it's a bit hard and ungracious today.
Drink from 2031 onward
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (April 2023)
About this WINE
Domaine de la Pousse D'Or
Although Domaine de la Pousse D'Or has vineyards reaching back as far as the eighteenth century, it has only existed as it does today since 1964. It is a forward thinking estate and one which was instrumental in pioneering a new technique for evaporating excess water to re-balance the must, resulting in less need for chaptalisation. It is perhaps unsurprising to learn, in view of this, that the domaine is owned by a consortium of Australian shareholders.
La Pousse d'Or is located a few kilometres from Beaune, in the commune of Volnay. The 13 hectares of vineyard are spread among the communes of Volnay, Pommard and Santenay, each producing distinctive and stylish wines.
The most powerful red wines of the Côte de Beaune emanate from Pommard, where complex soils with a high proportion of iron-rich clay produce deep-coloured, relatively tannic wines. A Pommard that is ready to drink in its first few years is probably not going to be a great example of the appellation.Two vineyards stand out: the lower part of Les Rugiens, which has been mooted for promotion to Grand Cru status, and the five-hectare, walled Clos des Epéneaux, monopoly of Comte Armand.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.