Pommard

Just half a crop, entirely destemmed and with minimal new wood. Good mid purple colour, with balanced fruit across the palate and Pommard’s firm edge of tannins - yet the fruit sings out behind. Attractive, integrated acidity, this just needs time to make a most attractive bottle.
Drink 2019-2024.

Sadly this is a very small cuvee chez Lejeune, but it has a beautiful bouquet, lively yet very graceful. There is a concentrated wealth of fruit on the palate with firm tannins providing a classical Pommard structure. Definitely a keeper. 
Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Wine Director 

Just two barrels were made from these vines which are over 100 years old. There’s a glowing pink-purple colour, which is pleasingly fragrant with a touch of stems. Superb, delicate little pieces of fruit weave across the palate. This is really well put together, with amazing finesse for Pommard, and all the power you could want. Excellent.

This is the third year in a row that the domaine has suffered serious hail damage, which was especially bad in Marc-Olivier’s village, Volnay, and all the Pommards (Rugiens apart). Because of the hail, he used much less in the way of whole-bunch vinification, just 20 percent on Taillepieds and Rugiens, and none at all on his other wines. As ever, his gentle handling of extraction has resulted in very pale colours by modern standards, but this in no way affects the concentration of his wines. There are very good results here in 2014.

Just one barrel has been made because of the hail, which is a tragedy because the remaining crop has become excellent wine! The nose displays a notably perfumed fruit, before the classical Pommard structure kicks in. Louis will give this a fining before bottling to round out the tannins.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

This has a vivid, pink-purple colour and bright red fruit. Up front, it is perfumed and seductive; behind it is brisk with some blood orange from the iron in the soil. The finish is very persistent. Just four barrels were made from half a hectare.

Erwan Faiveley believes that 2014 would be regarded as a great vintage – if only 2015 had not come along to trump it. He feels that the changes which have taken place in the cellar since 2007 have had a discernible effect on the quality of Faiveley wines, while similar qualitative changes in the vineyard are only now bearing fruit. Here, balanced but restricted yields are the key.

Not owned by jadot but they have a monopoly of the production. Dense dark ruby in colour, with a wealth of fruit on the nose, this starts well and finishes even better, with lovely fruit and oak balance. The Pommard tannins are nicely tamed. Drink 2026-2034.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Buffet’s centurion vines continue to produce outstanding fruit. There is just the one new barrel in 2016, but what a barrel it is! The nose is spicy with dense red fruit and a subtle rose character. Powerful and intense in the mouth, there is amazing structure here, with real grip and layers of chalky tannins. All the elements are there, but this needs several years for them to fully knit together. Drink 2023-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This vineyard was formerly a jewel in the crown of Domaine Annick Parent. The 2013 has a glorious rich purple colour and a hugely flamboyant bouquet with rich dark red and black fruit. There is no sign of hail, indeed it is quite thickly textured. This will age very well.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Faiveley use three picking teams. Two started in the white wine vineyards on 28th September and were finished in four days. Then it was all hands to the red grapes. In general the harvest came in healthily, the hard work all year round in the vineyards paying dividends. We were once again very impressed.

This iron-rich, red clay vineyard from the Meursault side of Pommard produces some very good wines, in the Rugiens mould. Very pretty red and black fruit on the nose, really good intensity. Ripe, rich, dense dark berry fruit on the palate, very typically Pommard. Crisp acidity and fine ripe tannins make this is a class act from Louis Boillot.
Chris Pollington - Private Account Manager

Pezerolles was hit by the hail and as a result there is only 20% of the normal volume in 2013. The hail has reduced the yield drastically, but it has not afftected the quanilty of the berries that did make it to harvest time. This is graceful for a Pommard, with wild strawberry combining beautifully with darker plum character. The structure is well covered by the fruit, but make no mistake, like every good Pommard, it is there and in time will provide the backbone this wine needs.
Matthew Tipping - Private Account Manager

No stems were included in Les Pézerolles which shows a fine, bright purple colour. Really clear, pure, red fruit, with plenty of volume, this is a gentler style of Pommard, with no discernible tannins, good fruit and harmonious all the way through.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

This youthful Pommard displays a bright red purple colour, with very little bouquet at this early stage, as one would expect for Pommard. The palate however displays the qualities of the appellation, chunky, indeed massively weighty, then firm tough tannins and acidity behind. Tuck away for the best part of a decade.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

Faiveley ’s parcel in the Rugiens-Hauts mostly escaped the frost, with just five to 10 percent of the crop lost. Deep ruby in colour and with a vibrant nose of red berry fruit and subtle spice, this is an elegant expression. The palate is juicy with good density of fruit and prominent but chalky tannins that point at good ageing potential. Drink 2021-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

At 115 hectares, Domaine Joseph Faiveley is one of the biggest domaines in Burgundy. The company has been based in Nuits-St Georges since the days of Pierre Faiveley who founded the business in 1825. His son Joseph gave his name to the family business, to be followed by the first François, Georges who helped found the Chevaliers du Tastevin, Guy who developed the business in the Côte Chalonnaise, François who has retired and now his son Erwan, born in 1979. The change of generation has dynamised the business: there’s been a notable expansion of vineyards, including Domaines Annick Parent, Monnot and Matrot- Wittersheim in the Côte de Beaune, as well as Dupont-Tisserandot (Gevrey) and Billaud- Simon (Chablis). Old-style Faiveley wines could be massively tannic at the expense of the fruit. From 2007 the wines are much fresher and fruitier, yet with real intensity. Harvest began on the 22nd September in the Côte de Beaune, taking an unusually long three weeks to ensure everything was fully ripe. In terms of frost damage, the Côte de Beaune was worst-hit, along with some Gevrey parcels, but where there was no frost damage, the yields were good. Stylistically, the red wines have seen slightly less whole-bunch than in 2015, and the wines continue in the new, more elegant style. The feeling is that 2016 reds are fresher and crunchier than 2015, while Erwan suggests that the white wines have the potential to be better than 2014.

One third of Les Rugiens undergoes whole-cluster vinification. Medium to deep purple, the nose is laden with ripe, cherry fruit and only a touch of spice. Very appealing, there is a huge wealth of fruit on the palate, spectacular quality and lovely, fine-grained tannins. This shows the nobility of the terroir, with no indications of hail.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

A lovely pale-ish colour and perfume, this is a most elegant style of Pommard, still with the correct structure for good ageing. Nonetheless it is the fruit which wins out on the palate, a concentration of little red berries, with a very long finish. Drink 2022-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Sébastien began picking his whites on 31st August, then paused before attacking the reds. He made no change to his usual vinification practice of long maceration without forceful extraction, having de-stemmed the grapes. Sébastien comments positively on the well ripened tannins and notes that the wines have been tasting well throughout their time in barrel.

This is from vines which are over 100 years old, in Les Rugiens Haut. A vibrant mid-purple, there are all sorts of complexities on the nose, possibly even some ginger and lemongrass mixed in with the dense red fruit. However it is entirely pure in the mouth, with amazing density and superb minerality – very long and lovely. Drink 2025-2040.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Yields were around 25 hl/ha for his village appellations, less for the Premiers Crus. Marc-Olivier Buffet has restricted whole-bunch fermentation  to 30 percent for most cuvées, avoiding previously more extreme forays in certain vintages, but retains his approach of a very light hand on extraction so as to enhance the ethereal side of Pinot Noir. He enthuses about 2015 for the balance of ripe tannins and good acidity.

A rich, dense purple colour, this is magisterial. The nose holds immense possibilities though it may not wish to speak of the detail just yet. This is beautifully homogenous on the palate – a gorgeous, glowing, graceful Epeneaux that just reminds you in the aftertaste that it comes from Pommard. It offers the essence of raspberry but in the sumptuous, red-fruit style of the great vintages of the past. Drink 2024-2040.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Paul Zinetti’s second harvest at the domaine has at least given him a few more grapes to play with than 2014 and fruit of exceptional quality. Nonetheless 2015 was once again a very short crop because of the previous hail damage, delivering just one third of what used to be normal. The grapes were mostly de-stemmed, although some whole bunches were used, but always a minority.

Made from Clos des Épeneaux vines planted in the 1980s, this is beautifully perfumed with very pretty fruit coming to the fore. Still tight on the palate for the moment, this needs another 3 years before it will deliver its energetic potential.