Pommard

This is a sunny, south-facing location which is situated at a relatively high 300 metres’ altitude and subject to cooling winds. These elements combine to give aromas of perfectly ripe red and black cherry fruit intertwined with lifted, floral aromas and sweet spice. Initially fleshy, the palate finishes with fresh, chalky tannins and vivacious acidity. Drink 2021-2027.

A short tour of one of Sébastien Magnien’s vineyards tells all you need to know about his philosophy; each vine is perfectly manicured, with not a leaf out of place.  This attention to detail is reflected in his wines, which are precise, steely and mineral. Sébastien’s choice of picking date is guided by acidity rather than sugar levels, putting the emphasis on freshness. He declared himself very happy with 2017, comparing the white wines to 2014 but with perhaps a touch more flavour ripeness, and praising the accessible, moreish character of the reds.

Marco has more than one barrel of his flagship wine for the first time in several years – four to be precise, allowing a diminution of the new wood percentage  to 25 percent. Famously from vines over 100 years  old and, astonishingly, providing over 40hl/ha this year. The wine oozes with the silky texture of oldvine fruit, and there is 25 percent whole-bunch to complement the vineyard’s iron-rich contribution. Drink 2025-2031.

As he felt that the tannins were riper than in 2016, Marc-Olivier (Marco) looked for greater extraction just at the start of the fermentation but, other than that, there are no major changes. Marco still uses whole-bunch when he feels it can improve the wine’s texture. Harvest started on 5th September and was finished by 15th September. He is another winemaker losing interest in zero-sulphur, feeling that the identity of the terroir can be lost without SO2’s guiding hand.

Purchased in 2007 in the premium Rugiens-Haut sector, the parcel is almost exactly 0.5 hectares, planted in 1953. This is genuinely impressive, ripe with no sense at all of the loose-limbed character of some 2017 reds from around here. Compact and brooding. Drink 2023-2030.

Faiveley began picking on 2nd September in Meursault, while the first Pinot Noir was harvested in Volnay and Pommard on 4th September. Their red Grands Crus were picked between 9th and 14th September. They compare their reds to 2007 and 2011, although they say the 2017s have a fleshier palate. As previously there has been some considered use of whole bunches in the fermentation for some selected smaller vineyard parcels. For the whites, they consider 2017 to be an outstanding vintage with powerful, rich and intensely aromatic wines.

Having made Clos des Epeneaux at Comte Armand, Ben had always harboured an ambition to make Pommard’s other great wine, so was delighted to take the opportunity; this comes from a plot in the lower part of Les Rugiens-Hauts. There is a real concentration of fruit here, Grand Cru weight and a wonderfully elegant tannic structure which underlines the class of this site. Drink 2023-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Having created a name for himself as régisseur (general manager) of Comte Armand in Pommard from 1999 until 2013, Benjamin Leroux established a small négociant business based in Beaune in 2007. The emphasis is on Côte de Beaune whites and Côte de Nuits reds. The company also owns a small holding of Bâtard-Montrachet and since 2014 some vineyards in Meursault. In a short space of time Benjamin Leroux’s wines have built an impressive reputation. Ben is a big fan of his 2016s, praising the sizzling tension of the whites and the beautiful quality of the Pinot fruit, which allowed him to use more whole bunches than in 2015. In early stages of élevage he drew comparisons to 2010, and feels these are wines which will surprise people and gain complexity with time. Thanks to his strong relationships with suppliers, Ben was able to maintain production at around 2015 levels despite the frost, although in general he has less Village and Grand Cru wine and more at the Premier Cru level. For reasons of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this catalogue. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

Rugiens is arguably Pommard’s greatest vineyard, of which the lower section is perhaps the finest, but Ben’s plot is in the lower part of Rugiens-Hauts and thus very adjacent. This is a big, stern and meaty wine, with dense tannins, but perfume and rigour too. Very serious and age-worthy. Drink 2025-2030.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap

With 2016 providing such an accent on the primary fruit, this Pommard presents a sterner and more rugged profile. The vineyard lost half its fruit to frost, reducing the production to just nine barrels. New oak was kept at a third, and the use of whole-bunch reduced to the same proportion. The wine is serious, not as lush as Champans, but it will age well. Drink 2022-2032.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

This blend of the various different cuvées of the Clos is, as ever, even more impressive than its individual parts. The bouquet is very fine, with stylish, vibrant red fruit aromas and lifted notes of spice. Tightly wound yet still with real generosity, this is a great wine in the making. Lay down and try to forget its existence for at least another five years.

Just 12hl/ha but that is still better than 2012 or 2013. Made with 30 percent new wood, this is a glorious imperial purple; on the nose, it’s really fragrant, lifted and lovely. To taste, there’s raspberry fruit mixed with alpine strawberries, some darker fruit too, the whole stretching beautifully across the palate. It has medium density and a pure and stylish finish. There’s a little touch of tannin at the back to remind us that it is Pommard – and a very fine one at that.

Paul Zinetti has replaced Benjamin Leroux as régisseur (general manager) at this famous estate. He has inherited a great position but also, alas, a tradition of hail-affected vintages. With this in mind, Paul has looked for lighter extraction in 2014, with less punching down than previously. He has been with the domaine for several years prior to taking over, so he is fully au fait with these vineyards. The village Auxey is a steal this year.

The Faiveley team managed to make an acceptable volume of this superb Pommard. It impresses from its very attractive purple colour onwards, but especially on the palate where the huge weight of fruit covers up the typically firm structure of Pommard. It is exceptionally persistent too.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The new era at Faiveley is now into its sixth vintage and the house style, which allows the fruit to express itself in a very seductive manner while enhancing the individual qualities of each terroir, has been safely established. Now the management is concentrating on reinforcing their supplybase with some crafty contracts and vineyard purchases in both Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. We may be able to offer more cuvées in the future, and though opportunities are clearly limited by the 2012 vintage circumstances, we have been well looked after this year.

A sturdy, dense wine with ripe fruit and tannins. Jean- Marc's brooding reds do require some time to soften. With age this will be a very appealing wine. Drink from 2008.

A rich, dense purple colour, this is magisterial. The nose holds immense possibilities though it may not wish to speak of the detail just yet. This is beautifully homogenous on the palate – a gorgeous, glowing, graceful Epeneaux that just reminds you in the aftertaste that it comes from Pommard. It offers the essence of raspberry but in the sumptuous, red-fruit style of the great vintages of the past. Drink 2024-2040.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Paul Zinetti’s second harvest at the domaine has at least given him a few more grapes to play with than 2014 and fruit of exceptional quality. Nonetheless 2015 was once again a very short crop because of the previous hail damage, delivering just one third of what used to be normal. The grapes were mostly de-stemmed, although some whole bunches were used, but always a minority.

Fine, deep colour with a noticeably reserved, backward nose. Impressive energy on the palate, good fruit weight and unusual depth of flavour. Classy, exceptional long and elegant throughout.
(Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Buyer - 10-Sept-2009)

Made from Clos des Épeneaux vines planted in the 1980s, this is beautifully perfumed with very pretty fruit coming to the fore. Still tight on the palate for the moment, this needs another 3 years before it will deliver its energetic potential.

This is another tour de force, right from the enticing, rich purple colour onwards. Really exuberant ripe fruit with floral notes are underpinned by a black cherry flavours. A magnificent wine for five to ten years time, although it will certainly last longer than that. Drink 2010-2015

Located just above Premier Cru Les Charmots, les Petits Noizons is a superbly sited south-facing vineyard. Lovely deep purple, stylish dark red fruits with some black notes. Generous, clearly ripe, with more black fruit on the palate. Really lovely wine with Pommard weight but still with a sense of vivacity.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Sébastien picked his white wines at the end of September then waited a week for the reds to finish ripening. In both cases the grapes remained in healthy condition. Clearly his 2013s are his best yet in white and very good indeed in red. Take this opportunity to discover a really promising young grower who is still ‘under the radar’.

This Pommard is a hugely impressive wine. It is brilliantly rich and full of ripe fruit with some iron rich qualities. Very good weight is offered and this is a good sign of the stems being in behind. Lovely acidity cleanses the palate on the finish. This is a candidate for my wine of the vintage.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director Etienne de Montille thinks he has made brilliant 2011s and we are inclined to agree with him. They have freshness, balance, low alcohol, good acidity, excellent fruit and wonderful tannin integration. Picking began on 27th August and continued through to the 9th September as individual vineyards ripened. The fruit has attractively ripe flavours while rarely getting beyond 12.5% alcohol and Etienne chose to include slightly fewer stems than in recent vintages, except for the top Cuvées. Certain wines are available in magnum and double magnum formats, please contact us if they are of interest to you.

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