Pommard

This is on the higher part of Pommard at 300 metres, above Les Charmots, but south-facing. This is really quite mineral; there is black fruit and a hint of iron on the nose (a good thing). On the palate, it is complex, tight and deep. There is a really understated concentration here, and the finish is long and resolved.
Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

No relation to the many Magniens of the Côte de Nuits, young Sébastien comes instead from Meloisey in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune – a village whose wines were as well thought of as those of Volnay in the 14th century, and were served at the coronation of King Philip II Augustus in 1180. However, to be in the thick of things, Sébastien has transferred headquarters to revamped cellars in the middle of Meursault. He is equally adept at making red and white wines. Sitting (relatively) modestly on Sébastien’s shelf in his tasting area is a trophy: for the Jeunes Talents Côte de Beaune 2016. Sébastien’s star is certainly rising, and fully deserved. Everything here is precise and considered. His vineyards in Beaune, Puligny and St Romain were not frosted, but there are significant reductions elsewhere throughout his range. Much of Sébastien’s focus is in the vineyard, where he tries to capture the spirit of each of his wines. The difficulties of the spring aside, he is very happy with his results this year. He has also been paying particular attention to the toast levels of his barrels, with an even more discreet, integrated result.

Just half a crop, entirely destemmed and with minimal new wood. Good mid purple colour, with balanced fruit across the palate and Pommard’s firm edge of tannins - yet the fruit sings out behind. Attractive, integrated acidity, this just needs time to make a most attractive bottle.
Drink 2019-2024.

Just two barrels were made from these vines which are over 100 years old. There’s a glowing pink-purple colour, which is pleasingly fragrant with a touch of stems. Superb, delicate little pieces of fruit weave across the palate. This is really well put together, with amazing finesse for Pommard, and all the power you could want. Excellent.

This is the third year in a row that the domaine has suffered serious hail damage, which was especially bad in Marc-Olivier’s village, Volnay, and all the Pommards (Rugiens apart). Because of the hail, he used much less in the way of whole-bunch vinification, just 20 percent on Taillepieds and Rugiens, and none at all on his other wines. As ever, his gentle handling of extraction has resulted in very pale colours by modern standards, but this in no way affects the concentration of his wines. There are very good results here in 2014.

This has a vivid, pink-purple colour and bright red fruit. Up front, it is perfumed and seductive; behind it is brisk with some blood orange from the iron in the soil. The finish is very persistent. Just four barrels were made from half a hectare.

Erwan Faiveley believes that 2014 would be regarded as a great vintage – if only 2015 had not come along to trump it. He feels that the changes which have taken place in the cellar since 2007 have had a discernible effect on the quality of Faiveley wines, while similar qualitative changes in the vineyard are only now bearing fruit. Here, balanced but restricted yields are the key.

Not owned by jadot but they have a monopoly of the production. Dense dark ruby in colour, with a wealth of fruit on the nose, this starts well and finishes even better, with lovely fruit and oak balance. The Pommard tannins are nicely tamed. Drink 2026-2034.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Buffet’s centurion vines continue to produce outstanding fruit. There is just the one new barrel in 2016, but what a barrel it is! The nose is spicy with dense red fruit and a subtle rose character. Powerful and intense in the mouth, there is amazing structure here, with real grip and layers of chalky tannins. All the elements are there, but this needs several years for them to fully knit together. Drink 2023-2035.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

This family-run domaine, which dates back to 1692, is currently managed by Marc Olivier, son of François, though still with help from his parents. The family had a very successful négociant business, under the name Ferdinand Buffet, until the 1930s when fortunes were lost in the great crash. Even so, there is an impressive range of Volnay (Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes, Champans, Carelles, Clos de la Rougeotte) and Pommard (Rugiens, Clos Micot, Poutures) vineyards. Marc-Olivier uses some whole bunches when he feels the vineyard is suitable, though not for young vines. The wines are matured in barrel over 22 months. Marc Olivier began harvesting on the 24th September, bringing the grapes in at natural sugar levels of between 12 and 13 degrees, but at an eye-wateringly low 10hl/ha. He explained that the vinification looked after itself, with colour and tannin coming easily, thus no need to extract. He thinks that the wines display the softness of 2015, but with a good acid structure and ripe tannins. The village Volnay was so badly hit by frost – one barrel in 2016 versus 19 in 2017 – that it does not appear in our offer. As ever, the wines here are an elegant and ethereal expression of Volnay.

This vineyard was formerly a jewel in the crown of Domaine Annick Parent. The 2013 has a glorious rich purple colour and a hugely flamboyant bouquet with rich dark red and black fruit. There is no sign of hail, indeed it is quite thickly textured. This will age very well.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Faiveley use three picking teams. Two started in the white wine vineyards on 28th September and were finished in four days. Then it was all hands to the red grapes. In general the harvest came in healthily, the hard work all year round in the vineyards paying dividends. We were once again very impressed.

This iron-rich, red clay vineyard from the Meursault side of Pommard produces some very good wines, in the Rugiens mould. Very pretty red and black fruit on the nose, really good intensity. Ripe, rich, dense dark berry fruit on the palate, very typically Pommard. Crisp acidity and fine ripe tannins make this is a class act from Louis Boillot.
Chris Pollington - Private Account Manager

Pezerolles was hit by the hail and as a result there is only 20% of the normal volume in 2013. The hail has reduced the yield drastically, but it has not afftected the quanilty of the berries that did make it to harvest time. This is graceful for a Pommard, with wild strawberry combining beautifully with darker plum character. The structure is well covered by the fruit, but make no mistake, like every good Pommard, it is there and in time will provide the backbone this wine needs.
Matthew Tipping - Private Account Manager

One third of Les Rugiens undergoes whole-cluster vinification. Medium to deep purple, the nose is laden with ripe, cherry fruit and only a touch of spice. Very appealing, there is a huge wealth of fruit on the palate, spectacular quality and lovely, fine-grained tannins. This shows the nobility of the terroir, with no indications of hail.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

No stems were included in Les Pézerolles which shows a fine, bright purple colour. Really clear, pure, red fruit, with plenty of volume, this is a gentler style of Pommard, with no discernible tannins, good fruit and harmonious all the way through.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

This youthful Pommard displays a bright red purple colour, with very little bouquet at this early stage, as one would expect for Pommard. The palate however displays the qualities of the appellation, chunky, indeed massively weighty, then firm tough tannins and acidity behind. Tuck away for the best part of a decade.
Jasper Morris MW - Wine Buyer

Very dense dark purple in colour, while the nose is remarkably intense but backward before the fruit swells majestically on the palate. One third whole cluster vinification provides a bit of spice at the back to alleviate the classically Pommard tannins. A keeper.
Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Wine Director

Just 12hl/ha but that is still better than 2012 or 2013. Made with 30 percent new wood, this is a glorious imperial purple; on the nose, it’s really fragrant, lifted and lovely. To taste, there’s raspberry fruit mixed with alpine strawberries, some darker fruit too, the whole stretching beautifully across the palate. It has medium density and a pure and stylish finish. There’s a little touch of tannin at the back to remind us that it is Pommard – and a very fine one at that.

Paul Zinetti has replaced Benjamin Leroux as régisseur (general manager) at this famous estate. He has inherited a great position but also, alas, a tradition of hail-affected vintages. With this in mind, Paul has looked for lighter extraction in 2014, with less punching down than previously. He has been with the domaine for several years prior to taking over, so he is fully au fait with these vineyards. The village Auxey is a steal this year.

Made from Clos des Épeneaux vines planted in the 1980s, this is beautifully perfumed with very pretty fruit coming to the fore. Still tight on the palate for the moment, this needs another 3 years before it will deliver its energetic potential.

This is another tour de force, right from the enticing, rich purple colour onwards. Really exuberant ripe fruit with floral notes are underpinned by a black cherry flavours. A magnificent wine for five to ten years time, although it will certainly last longer than that. Drink 2010-2015

Located just above Premier Cru Les Charmots, les Petits Noizons is a superbly sited south-facing vineyard. Lovely deep purple, stylish dark red fruits with some black notes. Generous, clearly ripe, with more black fruit on the palate. Really lovely wine with Pommard weight but still with a sense of vivacity.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Sébastien picked his white wines at the end of September then waited a week for the reds to finish ripening. In both cases the grapes remained in healthy condition. Clearly his 2013s are his best yet in white and very good indeed in red. Take this opportunity to discover a really promising young grower who is still ‘under the radar’.