Pommard

This is on the higher part of Pommard at 300 metres, above Les Charmots, but south-facing. This is really quite mineral; there is black fruit and a hint of iron on the nose (a good thing). On the palate, it is complex, tight and deep. There is a really understated concentration here, and the finish is long and resolved.
Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

No relation to the many Magniens of the Côte de Nuits, young Sébastien comes instead from Meloisey in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune – a village whose wines were as well thought of as those of Volnay in the 14th century, and were served at the coronation of King Philip II Augustus in 1180. However, to be in the thick of things, Sébastien has transferred headquarters to revamped cellars in the middle of Meursault. He is equally adept at making red and white wines. Sitting (relatively) modestly on Sébastien’s shelf in his tasting area is a trophy: for the Jeunes Talents Côte de Beaune 2016. Sébastien’s star is certainly rising, and fully deserved. Everything here is precise and considered. His vineyards in Beaune, Puligny and St Romain were not frosted, but there are significant reductions elsewhere throughout his range. Much of Sébastien’s focus is in the vineyard, where he tries to capture the spirit of each of his wines. The difficulties of the spring aside, he is very happy with his results this year. He has also been paying particular attention to the toast levels of his barrels, with an even more discreet, integrated result.

Until 1st April this product is discounted by 30 percent. Price shown includes saving.*
This has a vivid, pink-purple colour and bright red fruit. Up front, it is perfumed and seductive; behind it is brisk with some blood orange from the iron in the soil. The finish is very persistent. Just four barrels were made from half a hectare.

Erwan Faiveley believes that 2014 would be regarded as a great vintage – if only 2015 had not come along to trump it. He feels that the changes which have taken place in the cellar since 2007 have had a discernible effect on the quality of Faiveley wines, while similar qualitative changes in the vineyard are only now bearing fruit. Here, balanced but restricted yields are the key.
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No stems were included in Les Pézerolles which shows a fine, bright purple colour. Really clear, pure, red fruit, with plenty of volume, this is a gentler style of Pommard, with no discernible tannins, good fruit and harmonious all the way through.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

Faiveley ’s parcel in the Rugiens-Hauts mostly escaped the frost, with just five to 10 percent of the crop lost. Deep ruby in colour and with a vibrant nose of red berry fruit and subtle spice, this is an elegant expression. The palate is juicy with good density of fruit and prominent but chalky tannins that point at good ageing potential. Drink 2021-2029.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

At 115 hectares, Domaine Joseph Faiveley is one of the biggest domaines in Burgundy. The company has been based in Nuits-St Georges since the days of Pierre Faiveley who founded the business in 1825. His son Joseph gave his name to the family business, to be followed by the first François, Georges who helped found the Chevaliers du Tastevin, Guy who developed the business in the Côte Chalonnaise, François who has retired and now his son Erwan, born in 1979. The change of generation has dynamised the business: there’s been a notable expansion of vineyards, including Domaines Annick Parent, Monnot and Matrot- Wittersheim in the Côte de Beaune, as well as Dupont-Tisserandot (Gevrey) and Billaud- Simon (Chablis). Old-style Faiveley wines could be massively tannic at the expense of the fruit. From 2007 the wines are much fresher and fruitier, yet with real intensity. Harvest began on the 22nd September in the Côte de Beaune, taking an unusually long three weeks to ensure everything was fully ripe. In terms of frost damage, the Côte de Beaune was worst-hit, along with some Gevrey parcels, but where there was no frost damage, the yields were good. Stylistically, the red wines have seen slightly less whole-bunch than in 2015, and the wines continue in the new, more elegant style. The feeling is that 2016 reds are fresher and crunchier than 2015, while Erwan suggests that the white wines have the potential to be better than 2014.

Very dense dark purple in colour, while the nose is remarkably intense but backward before the fruit swells majestically on the palate. One third whole cluster vinification provides a bit of spice at the back to alleviate the classically Pommard tannins. A keeper.
Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Wine Director

Just 12hl/ha but that is still better than 2012 or 2013. Made with 30 percent new wood, this is a glorious imperial purple; on the nose, it’s really fragrant, lifted and lovely. To taste, there’s raspberry fruit mixed with alpine strawberries, some darker fruit too, the whole stretching beautifully across the palate. It has medium density and a pure and stylish finish. There’s a little touch of tannin at the back to remind us that it is Pommard – and a very fine one at that.

Paul Zinetti has replaced Benjamin Leroux as régisseur (general manager) at this famous estate. He has inherited a great position but also, alas, a tradition of hail-affected vintages. With this in mind, Paul has looked for lighter extraction in 2014, with less punching down than previously. He has been with the domaine for several years prior to taking over, so he is fully au fait with these vineyards. The village Auxey is a steal this year.

This is from vines which are over 100 years old, in Les Rugiens Haut. A vibrant mid-purple, there are all sorts of complexities on the nose, possibly even some ginger and lemongrass mixed in with the dense red fruit. However it is entirely pure in the mouth, with amazing density and superb minerality – very long and lovely. Drink 2025-2040.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Yields were around 25 hl/ha for his village appellations, less for the Premiers Crus. Marc-Olivier Buffet has restricted whole-bunch fermentation  to 30 percent for most cuvées, avoiding previously more extreme forays in certain vintages, but retains his approach of a very light hand on extraction so as to enhance the ethereal side of Pinot Noir. He enthuses about 2015 for the balance of ripe tannins and good acidity.

Fine, deep colour with a noticeably reserved, backward nose. Impressive energy on the palate, good fruit weight and unusual depth of flavour. Classy, exceptional long and elegant throughout.
(Jasper Morris MW - Burgundy Buyer - 10-Sept-2009)

This is another tour de force, right from the enticing, rich purple colour onwards. Really exuberant ripe fruit with floral notes are underpinned by a black cherry flavours. A magnificent wine for five to ten years time, although it will certainly last longer than that. Drink 2010-2015

Located just above Premier Cru Les Charmots, les Petits Noizons is a superbly sited south-facing vineyard. Lovely deep purple, stylish dark red fruits with some black notes. Generous, clearly ripe, with more black fruit on the palate. Really lovely wine with Pommard weight but still with a sense of vivacity.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Sébastien picked his white wines at the end of September then waited a week for the reds to finish ripening. In both cases the grapes remained in healthy condition. Clearly his 2013s are his best yet in white and very good indeed in red. Take this opportunity to discover a really promising young grower who is still ‘under the radar’.

A lovely bright purple with charming mid-red fruit and some darker notes of cherry and black fruit. Suave and smooth with neither the aggressive acidity nor the tough tannins of some Pommard wines in 2013. Superbly crafted.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

This was Benjamin Leroux’s last vintage at Domaine du Comte Armand and possibly his smallest yet. Just 18 barrels of Clos des Epeneaux have been made, with a yield of around eight hectolitres per hectare. The vintage began on 25th September with good looking grapes and decent maturity. Benjamin is staying involved to see the vintage into bottle, though otherwise Paul Zinetti is now securely in charge.

Etienne de Montille thinks he has made brilliant 2011s and we are inclined to agree with him. They have freshness, balance, low alcohol, good acidity, excellent fruit and wonderful tannin integration. Picking began on 27th August and continued through to the 9th September as individual vineyards ripened. The fruit has attractively ripe flavours while rarely getting beyond 12.5% alcohol and Etienne chose to include slightly fewer stems than in recent vintages, except for the top Cuvées. Certain wines are available in magnum and double magnum formats, please contact us if they are of interest to you.

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This Pommard is a hugely impressive wine. It is brilliantly rich and full of ripe fruit with some iron rich qualities. Very good weight is offered and this is a good sign of the stems being in behind. Lovely acidity cleanses the palate on the finish. This is a candidate for my wine of the vintage.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director