Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
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Lucien Le Moine,
For laying down,
In much the same vein as the Clos de la Roche I would describe this as relatively elegant as well with its exceptionally pretty and lightly spiced nose of various red berry fruit aromas that enjoy added breadth from the presence of floral, spice and earth scents. There is enough wood influence to notice on the comparatively supple and rounded medium-bodied flavors that tighten up quickly on the firm, balanced, complex and attractively textured finish.
Apr 15, 2014
Apr 15, 2014
Olivier Bernstein,
Ready, but will improve,
Rich full purple, the nose has power but will clearly need time. This is a big beast which gets richer and rounder by the minute while the bouquet begins to express itself with great purity. It is worth taking time over. The racking has done it some good since tasting last autumn. This Clos de Vougeot has deep, dark berry fruit, plenty of weight with a lovely fresh finish. .
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Buying Director
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Buying Director
Domaine Guyon,
For laying down,
Guyon’s parcel in the Clos is planted north-south, which shades the grapes and gives a fresh style with more tension. Initially rich on entry, with creamy fruit and spice, this almost feels like a Bonnes Mares. There is a noticeable structure as expected from this vineyard, but the overall impression is one of elegance. Drink 2027-2042.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This excellent domaine in Vosne-Romanée has flown under the radar – perhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends so much of his time out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. With his high-pedigree viticulture as a great starting point, Jean-Pierre can employ whole-bunch fermentation as the stalks are ripe, eschewing the use of sulphur at this stage, though some is added during élevage and at bottling to assure stability. Despite obvious frustration at the small volumes, Jean-Pierre Guyon is delighted with the quality of his 2016s. He describes it as a vintage of great Pinot Noir typicity, which will be greater than 2015, explaining that the wines' saline character will have you reaching for the next glass. As ever, the grapes here were picked a touch later than many estates to ensure the stems were fully ripe. He only bought six new barrels for the entire 2016 crop, so the proportion of new oak is reduced.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer
This excellent domaine in Vosne-Romanée has flown under the radar – perhaps because Jean-Pierre Guyon spends so much of his time out in the vineyards, which have been farmed organically since 2006, certified from 2012. With his high-pedigree viticulture as a great starting point, Jean-Pierre can employ whole-bunch fermentation as the stalks are ripe, eschewing the use of sulphur at this stage, though some is added during élevage and at bottling to assure stability. Despite obvious frustration at the small volumes, Jean-Pierre Guyon is delighted with the quality of his 2016s. He describes it as a vintage of great Pinot Noir typicity, which will be greater than 2015, explaining that the wines' saline character will have you reaching for the next glass. As ever, the grapes here were picked a touch later than many estates to ensure the stems were fully ripe. He only bought six new barrels for the entire 2016 crop, so the proportion of new oak is reduced.
Domaine Guyon,
For laying down,
In 2017 Jean-Pierre seems to have found more terroir in his wines, when others have found less. This cuvée sees all new oak but is both fresh and rich. You can see the layers in a wine that elsewhere is more often solid and opaque. Drink 2025-2032.
Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.
Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.
Domaine Jean Grivot,
For laying down,
Brilliant bright purple in colour, with abundant ripe fruit on the nose, red and black intertwined, then a powerful force of fruit throughout the middle with very good acidity behind. Tight and a little tannic, this is very vigorous and needs more time in barrel still.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
A late cycle all the way though, in 2013 Etienne started picking from 5th October. After conferring with his aunt Jacqueline Jayer, he noted that 2013 shares the same harvest dates as 1978 and also that in both vintages there were very few pips in the grapes and they were fully ripe. Low sugar levels, ripe skins and good acidity should lead to fine wines with excellent keeping qualities.
Domaine Guyon,
For laying down,
Ancient vines situated in prime territory within the Clos, right next door to Etienne de Montille’s vines. There is a lovely weight to the palate, with what I now know to be characteristic classy fruit from this domaine. There is a lovely succulent richness to it, yet lively. One of a rare breed of Clos Vougeot that has finesse to match the lovely plum fruit.
Matt Tipping – Fine Wine Sales Manager
Matt Tipping – Fine Wine Sales Manager
Domaine de la Vougeraie,
For laying down,
Platinum medal winner at the Decanter World Wine Awards
Bright, fresh purple, the Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot is very tightly wound, with lifted fruit, spice and highquality raspberry notes. There is exactly the right structure behind, just enough to support the fruit which dances across the palate. Pierre Vincent’s fine touch at its best.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
Bright, fresh purple, the Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot is very tightly wound, with lifted fruit, spice and highquality raspberry notes. There is exactly the right structure behind, just enough to support the fruit which dances across the palate. Pierre Vincent’s fine touch at its best.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
Domaine Joseph Faiveley,
For laying down,
Very pretty, this is faint yellow with a green touch. It has huge weight through the middle, lemon balm combined with lovely minerals. Lively but still classic, certainly an exceptional aftertaste.
Erwan Faiveley believes that 2014 would be regarded as a great vintage – if only 2015 had not come along to trump it. He feels that the changes which have taken place in the cellar since 2007 have had a discernible effect on the quality of Faiveley wines, while similar qualitative changes in the vineyard are only now bearing fruit. Here, balanced but restricted yields are the key.
Erwan Faiveley believes that 2014 would be regarded as a great vintage – if only 2015 had not come along to trump it. He feels that the changes which have taken place in the cellar since 2007 have had a discernible effect on the quality of Faiveley wines, while similar qualitative changes in the vineyard are only now bearing fruit. Here, balanced but restricted yields are the key.
For laying down,
Thibault thinks that his holding covers all the soil types of Clos de Vougeot: limestone, then red and brown clay, then white clay and silt. The 2014 is a fresh and lifted version of Clos de Vougeot, yet has great intensity. There is deep raspberry fruit, and notable charm.
Thibault has made a fine and elegant range of 2014s, with little sign of the reduction which has sometimes prevailed here in the past. He has employed a fair proportion of whole-bunch fermentation, sending a crack team of pickers into the vineyards ahead of the rest to select the healthiest bunches. Another interest at the moment lies in finding the perfect toasting for his barrels, often choosing a minimal approach. We shall also be making a separate offer of Thibault’s brilliant 2014s from his Moulin à Vent estate.
Thibault has made a fine and elegant range of 2014s, with little sign of the reduction which has sometimes prevailed here in the past. He has employed a fair proportion of whole-bunch fermentation, sending a crack team of pickers into the vineyards ahead of the rest to select the healthiest bunches. Another interest at the moment lies in finding the perfect toasting for his barrels, often choosing a minimal approach. We shall also be making a separate offer of Thibault’s brilliant 2014s from his Moulin à Vent estate.
Domaine Castagnier,
For laying down,
Jérôme chooses to serve this last, and he is not wrong. Striking, rich purple in colour, with some well-judged oak, this is very dense, with pure, lifted, concentrated, dark red fruit, good acidity. Overall it is very compact, ultra-concentrated, with a pretty, fresh finish. In short, impressive.
Our jovial friend Jérôme Castagnier has excelled himself this year. The promise we picked up on last year has really been delivered in 2014. He says that the wines have lovely flesh but also a beautiful freshness, and notes some similarities to 2010. His generic Burgundies (available on www.bbr.com/burgundy2014) are also excellent.
Our jovial friend Jérôme Castagnier has excelled himself this year. The promise we picked up on last year has really been delivered in 2014. He says that the wines have lovely flesh but also a beautiful freshness, and notes some similarities to 2010. His generic Burgundies (available on www.bbr.com/burgundy2014) are also excellent.
Olivier Bernstein,
For laying down,
Very dense purple with a bright, energetic nose, this has some bramble fruit and dark cherry notes. The wine is very tightly knit yet beautifully rich. While creamy, thick, dark fruits roll gently across the palate and the tannins show a fine, ripe and rounded personality, this 2014 Clos Vougeot is quite backward and quite firmly structured, with good, clean acidity defining the finish. The Berry Bros. & Rudd team consider this Olivier’s finest Clos Vougeot to date.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
After the frost of 2016, Nicole feels that the worst-affected parcels struggled somewhat this year, meaning Suchots and the lower part of Clos de Vougeot are less plentiful than she had hoped. Despite this, she believes her organic viticulture is useful in making the vines more resilient. The winemaking follows the now-established pattern of around a third whole bunches across the range, with new oak reaching 50 percent for La Grande Rue. Nicole is particularly fond of the 2017 vintage, praising the wines’ energy, elegance, ripe tannins, long finishes and, above all, balance.