Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
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Domaine Guyon,
For laying down,
In 2017 Jean-Pierre seems to have found more terroir in his wines, when others have found less. This cuvée sees all new oak but is both fresh and rich. You can see the layers in a wine that elsewhere is more often solid and opaque. Drink 2025-2032.
Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.
Jean-Pierre Guyon tasted his berries on 8th September and was not impressed. He waited for the rain that weekend and was among the last to harvest on 15th September. He got lucky, but his assiduous vineyard work must also have helped the astonishing transformation. It’s an hugely impressive range, better than 2016 in Jean-Pierre’s view, and certainly one of the best addresses this year. He has smart new labels as well, with vin biologique proudly to the fore. There is more terroir definition this year, and Jean-Pierre will bottle a little earlier.
Domaine Jean Grivot,
For laying down,
Brilliant bright purple in colour, with abundant ripe fruit on the nose, red and black intertwined, then a powerful force of fruit throughout the middle with very good acidity behind. Tight and a little tannic, this is very vigorous and needs more time in barrel still.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer
A late cycle all the way though, in 2013 Etienne started picking from 5th October. After conferring with his aunt Jacqueline Jayer, he noted that 2013 shares the same harvest dates as 1978 and also that in both vintages there were very few pips in the grapes and they were fully ripe. Low sugar levels, ripe skins and good acidity should lead to fine wines with excellent keeping qualities.
Chateau de La Tour,
For laying down,
Noticeable but not invasive wood and menthol frame a slightly riper array of aromas that are quite similar to those of the regular cuvée. Here too there is outstanding density and power to the even more concentrated broad-shouldered and robust flavors that possess even better depth and persistence on the impeccably well-balanced, saline and palate coating finish. This is presently extremely primary and while it's clear that this offers huge upside development potential it's also clear that plenty of patience will be required.
Drink 2031+
95 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, Jan 2016, Issue #61
Drink 2031+
95 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, Jan 2016, Issue #61
Domaine Guyon,
For laying down,
Ancient vines situated in prime territory within the Clos, right next door to Etienne de Montille’s vines. There is a lovely weight to the palate, with what I now know to be characteristic classy fruit from this domaine. There is a lovely succulent richness to it, yet lively. One of a rare breed of Clos Vougeot that has finesse to match the lovely plum fruit.
Matt Tipping – Fine Wine Sales Manager
Matt Tipping – Fine Wine Sales Manager
Domaine de la Vougeraie,
For laying down,
Platinum medal winner at the Decanter World Wine Awards
Bright, fresh purple, the Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot is very tightly wound, with lifted fruit, spice and highquality raspberry notes. There is exactly the right structure behind, just enough to support the fruit which dances across the palate. Pierre Vincent’s fine touch at its best.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
Bright, fresh purple, the Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot is very tightly wound, with lifted fruit, spice and highquality raspberry notes. There is exactly the right structure behind, just enough to support the fruit which dances across the palate. Pierre Vincent’s fine touch at its best.
The domaine has developed its white wine holdings, with four new cuvées this year, arising out of Boisset’s purchase of Vincent Girardin’s business. Girardin had farming arrangements in Puligny- Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain Premier Cru, Bienvenues-Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru and a tiny holding of Chevalier-Montrachet: Monsieur Boisset has now bought these vineyards. As well as these excellent whites, Pierre Vincent considers 2014 to be one of his best red wine vintages, with something in common with 2006 and 2010.
For laying down,
Thibault thinks that his holding covers all the soil types of Clos de Vougeot: limestone, then red and brown clay, then white clay and silt. The 2014 is a fresh and lifted version of Clos de Vougeot, yet has great intensity. There is deep raspberry fruit, and notable charm.
Thibault has made a fine and elegant range of 2014s, with little sign of the reduction which has sometimes prevailed here in the past. He has employed a fair proportion of whole-bunch fermentation, sending a crack team of pickers into the vineyards ahead of the rest to select the healthiest bunches. Another interest at the moment lies in finding the perfect toasting for his barrels, often choosing a minimal approach. We shall also be making a separate offer of Thibault’s brilliant 2014s from his Moulin à Vent estate.
Thibault has made a fine and elegant range of 2014s, with little sign of the reduction which has sometimes prevailed here in the past. He has employed a fair proportion of whole-bunch fermentation, sending a crack team of pickers into the vineyards ahead of the rest to select the healthiest bunches. Another interest at the moment lies in finding the perfect toasting for his barrels, often choosing a minimal approach. We shall also be making a separate offer of Thibault’s brilliant 2014s from his Moulin à Vent estate.
Olivier Bernstein,
For laying down,
Berry Bros. & Rudd is delighted to present this spectacular Grand Cru mixed case. Featuring one bottle from each of Bernstein’s illustrious plots, this Grand Cru selection, presented in a hand-crafted wooden box, represents a unique opportunity to taste his 2014 wines.
This case contains one bottle of each of the following:
Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru
Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru
Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru
Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru
Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru
Chambertin, Clos-de-Bèze, Grand Cru
Chambertin, Grand Cru
This case contains one bottle of each of the following:
Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru
Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru
Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru
Bonnes-Mares, Grand Cru
Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru
Chambertin, Clos-de-Bèze, Grand Cru
Chambertin, Grand Cru
Domaine Jean Grivot,
For laying down,
Glowing purple in colour, the nose has a sense of majesty to it, with huge intensity: it’s absolutely bounding out of the glass. The palate demonstrates a massive weight of rich, dark red fruit, though we cannot see all the detail yet. However everything suggests that this will prove to be a fabulous example of Clos de Vougeot.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
Etienne Grivot describes his 2012s as having glamour on top of the sophistication of 2010. He notes also the generosity of fruit married to perfect acidity in 2012. It was no hardship tasting our way through his range. One minor added sophistication in the Grivot cellar is an amendment to his barrel regime – he now specifies an extra long chauffe to his barrels, though without going beyond his usual medium toast. High prices but fabulous quality.
Olivier Bernstein,
Ready, but will improve,
Olivier Bernstein owns no vineyards, working on contracts for grapes instead. His 2009s are certainly very ripe, though his gift for winemaking is clear. A man to watch.
Very dense rich purple colour. Thick texture, though fresher on the palate than the first nose suggested. There is plenty of detail in here, swimming in a sea of ripe fruit. Black cherries coat the mouth.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)
Very dense rich purple colour. Thick texture, though fresher on the palate than the first nose suggested. There is plenty of detail in here, swimming in a sea of ripe fruit. Black cherries coat the mouth.
(Jasper Morris MW, BBR Buyer)
Domaine Guyon,
For laying down,
We discovered Jean-Pierre Guyon’s amazing wines a couple of years ago. This is a domaine worth discovering, producing intense wines with layers of complexity waiting to unfold. There is no question about the concentration here in 2014 – these are certainly wines for keeping.
Ancient vines make a real difference here. The colour is a dense black-purple, and the nose is really concentrated. The wine has broad shoulders but a slim waist, with a touch more oak, but only in a supporting role. There is a real sweetness through the middle and then a crunchy, dark-fruit finish. This will develop into an impressive Clos de Vougeot.
Ancient vines make a real difference here. The colour is a dense black-purple, and the nose is really concentrated. The wine has broad shoulders but a slim waist, with a touch more oak, but only in a supporting role. There is a real sweetness through the middle and then a crunchy, dark-fruit finish. This will develop into an impressive Clos de Vougeot.
Domaine Castagnier,
For laying down,
Rich purple in colour, this has a powerful but very backward nose because of the late malolactic fermentation. As ever this is a very muscular Clos Vougeot from the Grand Maupertuis part of the vineyard, with a huge weight of rich red and black fruit; very dense with mineral crunch behind. Drink 2025-2038.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Jérôme Castagnier is the Guide Hachette’s Burgundian vigneron of the year for 2017 and has been shortlisted for young vigneron of the year in the region’s own awards, so it is all happening for him. He began picking his 2015s on September 9th and finished on Saturday 12th before the rain that fell later that day. This year he has used one-third whole bunches for his village wines and the Crus, and in the last two years has refined his barrel regime so that the wood has less impact on the wine. Note that the malolactic fermentation was only just finishing when we tasted and this may have impacted the bouquets.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
Jérôme Castagnier is the Guide Hachette’s Burgundian vigneron of the year for 2017 and has been shortlisted for young vigneron of the year in the region’s own awards, so it is all happening for him. He began picking his 2015s on September 9th and finished on Saturday 12th before the rain that fell later that day. This year he has used one-third whole bunches for his village wines and the Crus, and in the last two years has refined his barrel regime so that the wood has less impact on the wine. Note that the malolactic fermentation was only just finishing when we tasted and this may have impacted the bouquets.
Domaine de la Vougeraie,
For laying down,
From Le Charlemagne and En Charlemagne, this is the most open of the Grands Crus with a pleasing stoniness. It shows the sunshine too, then a glorious mouthful of ripe yellow fruit, with hints of banana and pineapple but only a touch – no tropical vulgarity here. The wine has good oak balance and great length. The two plots are picked five days apart, ripe fruit but with good natural acidity. Drink 2020-2028.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
This year Pierre Vincent has been able to achieve his aim of an ideal barrel rotation. Each of these wines has been matured in one-third new wood, one-third one-year-old and one-third two-year-old. Because of the exceptional health of the grapes in 2015, he has also been able to vinify all the wines without de-stemming. His 2015 reds are wines of grace and elegance, while the white wines (picked from 28th August) have an impressive tension alongside a concentration of fruit.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer
This year Pierre Vincent has been able to achieve his aim of an ideal barrel rotation. Each of these wines has been matured in one-third new wood, one-third one-year-old and one-third two-year-old. Because of the exceptional health of the grapes in 2015, he has also been able to vinify all the wines without de-stemming. His 2015 reds are wines of grace and elegance, while the white wines (picked from 28th August) have an impressive tension alongside a concentration of fruit.
Apr 15, 2014