2007 Alsace

In a different league to the Riesling Reserve, whilst sharing Trimbach’s penchant for austere dry Riesling. Sourced predominantly from their lime and sandstone holdings in Osterberg and Geisberg, the sunny lemon 2007 vintage has combined to give this ‘CFE’ a beautifully fine nose, and fabulously taut nose of lemon talc.

As Jean Trimbach observed, its transparent pebbliness reminds one of Chablis, a region not far off to the west. Great poise, packed with lemon pith detail while being achingly dry. A Calvinist’s Riesling if ever there was one! Drinking 2013 – 2027.
Ben Upjohn, Fine Wine Sales Manager

The Trimbach family is one of France’s greatest winemaking dynasties, having made wine in Alsace for almost four centuries (since 1626) based in the picturesque town of Ribeauvillé. If Domaine Zind-Humbrecht produces wines of extravagant power at one end of the spectrum of excellence within Alsace wine making, then Trimbach definitely stands at the other extreme – “Restraint” is their watchword.

The Trimbach style is summed-up perfectly by Hubert Trimbach: “Concentrated not heavy; fruity, not sweet; bracing rather than fat; polite rather than voluptuous. Trimbach wines are reserved, steely, elegant, even aristocratic; never obvious or flashy. We are Protestants. Our wines have the Protestant style – vigour, firmness, a beautiful acidity, lovely freshness. Purity and cleanness, that’s Trimbach.” For those weary of the residual sugar found in so many of the contemporary Alsace wines, Trimbach’s are a refuge.

As the family moves into its 13th generation, with Pierre’s daughter Anne now working in the business (and Jean’s son Julian studying vine science at Dijon), Maison Trimbach remains a byword for fine dry Alsace Riesling. Famously controversial for opting out of the Grand Cru classification back in 1975, on account of the overly generous yields and low sugar levels (low quality) required, in the past five years the company has added 15 hectares of prime Grand Cru sites, notably in Osterberg, Geisberg, and Schlossberg, bringing their total to 45ha. Their brands of (Riesling) Cuvee Frederic Emile, (Pinot Gris) Reserve Personelle and (Gewurztraminer) Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre remain central to the range, made from both their own and bought in fruit; they remain a clear step up in quality and finesse from the fruitier ‘Reserve’ lines. Clos Ste.Hune is the estate’s finest Riesling, from a 1.67ha ‘clos’ within Grand Cru Rosacker; the provenance readily communicated but still absent from the label. So as winemaker Pierre Trimbach signs off his 34th vintage in charge, this is still very much an estate to watch. These wines are considered the benchmark for quality, consistency and style. The essence of Trimbach, with the obvious exception of the luscious Vendage Tardive and SGN wines, is the traditional dry style in which the wines are made.

Zind Humbrecht's 2007 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst, Selection de Grains Nobles shows an aromatic nose of rose water, intensely spicy, pineapple/grapefruit-scented nose that gives way to a palate of extreme elegance and well balanced sweetness. Concentrated flavours fill the mouth with lush lychee notes, honeysuckle, exotic spices and tropical fruits. Boisterously expressive yet graceful, this will hold for many years, gaining more layers of additional complexity and it will not begin to hit its plateau of maturity after 25-30 years. It is a candidate for perfection!

This Pinot Gris comes from Clos Windsbuhl, a terraced limestone & clay vineyard, which by many is considered to be producing Zind Humbrecht's greatest wines. The 2007 vintage displays toasty characteristics, tea leaves, chalk and plenty of fruit flavours. The finish is dry, long, intense and complex.

Zind Humbrecht's 2007 Riesling Clos Häuserer shows all the limestone/calcareous character this grape variety can acquire from a healthy, slow ripening vintage: lots of minerals, juicy acidity and good weight. The lower than usual alcohol level makes it a fantastic food wine and its delicate finish is more enhanced by its acidity and minerality than sheer power.

Showing a harmonious combination of smoke and flint flavours with hints of white fruit on the nose, the 2007 Pinot Gris Rangen is delectably balanced. This intricate wine inundates the palate with flavours of peaches, honey and poached pears. Sweetness shines through on the palate, but thanks to its vibrant acidity, it blends in very quickly. Pinot Gris Rangen should evolve and drink well for 15 years.

When one talks of Grand Cru status in white wines, we often fall into the habit of talking about Burgundy and the famed vineyards of Montrachet, Corton Charlemagne, etc.  Wines that often require a price tag easily into the mid to high hundreds and beyond.  There is an enclave of vines within a tiny region in Alsace that produces possibly one of the most age-worthy and complex white wines available – “Clos Ste Hune”, owned by the Trimbach family.  The 26ha of vines in Rosacker famously include a tiny 1.67ha vineyard that makes arguably the greatest Riesling in Alsace, Domaine Trimbach’s Clos-Ste-Hune.

This wine is complex and age-worthy. A dry expression of Riesling but with so much going on within its iron like grip that it’s hard to keep up. Always a touch richer and maybe less austere than its smaller sibling cuvee Frederic Emile, but far more complex with energy rich fruit and penetratingly long and persistent on the palate, full of grapefruit, quinine, Lemon pith, musk, the list goes on and on.
Stuart Rae - Private Account Manager