Condrieu
There are now plantings of Viognier worldwide but this grape’s spiritual homeland is in Condrieu – where the finest Viogniers are produced. The appellation was created in 1940, and today over 40 growers make wines from just over 100 hectares of vineyards. The wines are dry with a wonderful floral nose of peaches, apricots, violets and pears, and quite alcoholic, with low-ish acidity. Condrieus are best enjoyed when young.
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Domaine Georges Vernay,
Drink now,
From vines planted in 1959, the Chailles de lEnfer (a brand rather than a site) is sourced from the north of the commune, its grapes traditionally late-picked and its wine at the richer, more decadent end of the spectrum. The 2009 is no exception and seduces with its wonderful voluptuous texture and powerful finish.
Domaine Georges Vernay,
Drink now,
From the centre of the eponymous slope, this is probably the greatest wine in Condrieu. From 80 year-old vines, the wine is fermented and matured in wood for a period of just over a year. The palate is encyclopaedic and cerebral, dominated by dried fruits, spice and honey and with grippy, persuasive almost saline minerality on the finish.
Drink now,
From precipitous south-facing vines in the famous commune of Vernon, this well-named cuvée is aged for 18 months in barrique and is released almost a year after Yves’s other whites. This lavish élevage is reflected in a rich and spicy wine, with mirabelle plum and honeysuckle complemented by notes of brioche, vanillin and white tobacco.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Dynamic and energetic, Yves sometimes gives the impression of trying too hard: there is so much activity and so many wines, why can’t the message be clearer? Well, my message is clear and it underlines the overall quality of the range, proved once again by a recent (late 2014) Decanter tasting which put M Cuilleron's Côte Rôtie on its own at the very top of the tree. Pragmatism over the hot topic of destemming and a general inclination to harvest late are cited as two cornerstones of the Cuilleron philosophy. Yves praises the equilibrium of his 2013 whites, and is pleased with both the colour and the tannic structure of his reds.
For laying down,
From a plot right at the top of the hill, Rostaing has just over one hectare in Condrieu. Their Viognier flourishes on the granite soil, developing rich flavours while maintaining all-important acidity. A beautifully floral nose is framed by ripe apricot fruit. The wine sees no new oak, allowing a focus on the purity and complexity of flavour. The palate is cool and well-measured with a hint of ginger and a slight salinity on the long and concentrated finish. Drink now to 2024.
Oliver Barton, Buying Assistant
Oliver Barton, Buying Assistant
Showing 1-7 out of 7 items