Aloxe Corton

Bright intense purple, this is also extraordinarily intense on the palate, with vibrant black fruit almost bramble jelly, yet high acidity to maintain the necessary freshness. It should come together nicely in the medium term.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Thibault describes this wine as “light but not thin”. It is much finer-boned than other, sturdier, archetypal Aloxe-Cortons. It is a beautiful, pure, light red colour; really elegant and stylish, with sweet, ripe fruit. It is indeed light on its toes.

Thibault has made a fine and elegant range of 2014s, with little sign of the reduction which has sometimes prevailed here in the past. He has employed a fair proportion of whole-bunch fermentation, sending a crack team of pickers into the vineyards ahead of the rest to select the healthiest bunches. Another interest at the moment lies in finding the perfect toasting for his barrels, often choosing a minimal approach. We shall also be making a separate offer of Thibault’s brilliant 2014s from his Moulin à Vent estate.

Rich, imperial purple with a huge, generous nose, this is exciting. A vast bundle of ripe dark fruit, some plums, some cherries, really very stylish indeed, and excellent length.  Very good weight, still lively and very long. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The 2013 grapes were picked between 30th September and 11th October. The white skins were fragile so pressing was very gentle, the reds more robust and capable of a good proportion of whole bunch fermentation. Most wines are now in tank with bottling a little earlier than usual. An exceptional range of reds in particular from Bouchard this year.

The grapes for this are purchased, from parcels facing Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix and Pernand-Vergelesses, which gives a complete reading of the terroir of the vineyard. The nose has notes of stone fruit, a little pineapple and just a whiff of bacon fat. The palate is rich and dense with a warming ripeness, but all the while underpinned by a citrus core of acidity. An excellent Corton-Charlemagne. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long-aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power. Winemaker Franck Grux is very pleased with the quality of the 2016 vintage, although he explained that the frost damage caused grapes to ripen at different times, which required a great deal of patience and necessitated extending the harvest to three weeks, as opposed to the normal two. The Puligny vineyards were relatively lucky in terms of frost damage, giving good yields. Franck explained that he carried out more lees stirring in 2016 than in 2015 to give the wines more weight, feeling that 2016 is a vintage with comparatively modest body and ripeness. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

Rich purple with a lively, sumptuous dense fruit, this is very rich with a great crunch behind. Needs much more time. Massive with a good fresh finish but is just a bust a babe in arms at the moment.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Faiveley use three picking teams. Two started in the white wine vineyards on 28th September and were finished in four days. Then it was all hands to the red grapes. In general the harvest came in healthily, the hard work all year round in the vineyards paying dividends. We were once again very impressed.

All whole-bunch vinified, this year’s Clos du Roi is a lovely, clear pink-purple. The nose is very fresh and pure, more raspberry than strawberry, with an underlying spice and the sweet fruit bursting through. Magical on the palate, this is a vibrant, delicious wine.

Étienne de Montille began picking whites on 10th and reds on 13th September, relatively early. Despite the hail (worst in Pommard than Beaune, Volnay less) yields were slightly improved compared to 2013. The fruit was clean with small berries, and beautiful clusters, so they were able to continue with their usual programme of whole-bunch vinification in most instances. The details are given for each wine. They will be long lived wines.

Made from a blend of En Charlemagne and Le Corton, this has a fine, pale colour with a faint straw tint, and some green hints. The nose shows Grand Cru quality while remaining discreet. Subtle notes of ripe fruit, some peach and a little bit of banana give way to rich fruit and some powerful structure which does not yet quite knit together. There is a huge amount of weight here and this will all integrate.

This was a near-perfect harvest for Sylvain, with scarcely any need to sort the healthy grapes, and better volumes across the piece apart from a little hail in Ladoix. He has cut back on his négociant activities and all the wines below are from his own domaine. The whites are predictably beautiful this year and the reds much less reductive than in the past.

An excellent, medium deep colour heralds an elegantly fragrant nose, with a great deal behind. This is sensitively handled – it’s by no means a blockbuster and is very sensual in the mouth with a long finish. David’s deft touch with Corton continues.

Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.

The crop here was small, partly due to hail and partly because of the old vines. This is rich, dark purple with a sensational density of fruit on the nose, huge volumes in the mouth and good oak integration. There’s dark raspberry and some black cherry, with acidity woven in absolutely as it should be. Magical.

Erwan Faiveley believes that 2014 would be regarded as a great vintage – if only 2015 had not come along to trump it. He feels that the changes which have taken place in the cellar since 2007 have had a discernible effect on the quality of Faiveley wines, while similar qualitative changes in the vineyard are only now bearing fruit. Here, balanced but restricted yields are the key.

A rich, generous colour that’s full, yet bright purple, with very intense fruit and a touch of graphite. It continues to black cherries, with some bright red fruit notes, and a huge mouthful through the mid palate, leading to an exquisitely stylish finish with some oak and very good length.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The new era at Faiveley is now into its sixth vintage and the house style, which allows the fruit to express itself in a very seductive manner while enhancing the individual qualities of each terroir, has been safely established. Now the management is concentrating on reinforcing their supplybase with some crafty contracts and vineyard purchases in both Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. We may be able to offer more cuvées in the future, and though opportunities are clearly limited by the 2012 vintage circumstances, we have been well looked after this year.

With a typical imperial purple colour, this is most agreeably perfumed, elegant even, on the nose, then delivering Grand Cru density on the palate with beautiful balance. Perfumed light raspberry, this is very gracious yet with a steely thread. Drink 2022-2035.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

David Croix has used a small percentage of whole bunches this year which is unusual for him, but he likes this approach in years with darker, riper fruit. Yields were the same as in 2012, around 25 hl/ha. He began picking his reds on 7th September, bringing the whole crop in over just four days. The Corton vineyards, both planted with 50- to 60-year-old vines, provide a fascinating contrast in style.

The first vineyard to be picked, this is pale yellow in colour, with an orange blossom nose that is ripe and charming. Some stony elements appear underneath the floral notes. There is good acidity to the finish and certainly persistence. Drink 2019-2026.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

Full purple, and as ever, a magical nose promising so much. In the mouth it shows backward, brooding, weighty dense cherry fruit with very good acidity and there is huge energy throughout. Clos du Roi is a great vineyard and here it is in smart hands.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Winemaker and general manager, David Croix, has been grumbling that he feels he has the temperament of a grower rather than the deal-making knack of a born negoçiant, so he hasn’t found it easy to fill the cellar in 2012. We also find that tasting with him feels like being in a grower’s cellar, though Camille Giroud only owns a couple of vineyards. There are, nevertheless, one or two really exciting new wines here this year, notably the Volnay Santenots, and the whole cellar is on top form.

The brilliantly rich and dense bouquet of this Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru is well supported by a wonderful intensity of fruit on the palate that sits perfectly on the cusp of red and black flavours. This is a really fabulous wine.

Grown on the Pernand side of the appellation, this is a brilliant Corton-Charlemagne. It has an exceptional density of flavour, a bit like licking lemon infused stones, and is really vibrant and stylish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Director

Displaying exceptionally good acidity, this wine is refreshing, shows a lovely structure and great length. The lower part of the vineyard gives a solid base to support the high notes from the hillside sector, and together it makes a sublime version of Corton.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director The resurgence begun by the trio of Erwan Faiveley, Bernard Hervé and winemaker Jérôme Flous, who arrived in 2007, is very apparent in this brilliant series of 2011 wines. They began the harvest on 31 August and picked for 9 days. There are some new wines this year from a contract for the whole production of an estate in Chambolle-Musigny and the Faiveley white wines from totally healthy grapes are particularly successful in 2011, perhaps the best we have seen from the new regime.

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Lovely vivid purple and a really stylish nose, a beautiful definition of deep cherry fruit with a high raspberry note. Completely fills the palate, to a long refined finish. Silky, though not hugely ripe but it’s all there.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Patrick Javilliers south-facing holding of Corton-Charlemagne never has any trouble in ripening sufficiently to make superb wine. This Corton- Charlemagne is a rich, powerful, fleshy wine with an all-important mineral core lying just under the surface which will be revealed over the years to come.

A golden style Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine des Croix with attractive ripe fruit aromas, including traces of banana and coconut. This wine has a delightful freshness behind, followed up with attractive mineralty.