Aloxe Corton

Franck’s Aloxe-Corton has a dense purple core and some firmly concentrated fruit. Very promising: this should be a keeper. It offers concentrated, deep red fruit, a classical, firm structure and excellent persistence.

Franck Follin-Arbelet reports a relatively small crop, after a difficult flowering (too hot and dry) and some hail in Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. Nonetheless the grapes resisted the damp middle of the summer well and ripened properly at the end. Harvest began on 13th September and though the sorting table was needed to remove hail damage and dried grapes, the results here are very successful in 2014.

Bright intense purple, this is also extraordinarily intense on the palate, with vibrant black fruit almost bramble jelly, yet high acidity to maintain the necessary freshness. It should come together nicely in the medium term.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Thibault describes this wine as “light but not thin”. It is much finer-boned than other, sturdier, archetypal Aloxe-Cortons. It is a beautiful, pure, light red colour; really elegant and stylish, with sweet, ripe fruit. It is indeed light on its toes.

Thibault has made a fine and elegant range of 2014s, with little sign of the reduction which has sometimes prevailed here in the past. He has employed a fair proportion of whole-bunch fermentation, sending a crack team of pickers into the vineyards ahead of the rest to select the healthiest bunches. Another interest at the moment lies in finding the perfect toasting for his barrels, often choosing a minimal approach. We shall also be making a separate offer of Thibault’s brilliant 2014s from his Moulin à Vent estate.

Another glowing colour, with a tight nose, this wine is concentrated but backward. A great wine on the palate that is completely covered in fruit. The personality comes from the red soil full of iron oxide pellets.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The average yield across the domaine this year is 25 hl/ha, well below par, but not the catastrophe which was visited on some, and these 2012s are clearly David’s best wines yet. He found them easy to vinify, though they have required some careful management in barrel because they are so concentrated and compact. The grapes were completely healthy and showed the best analytical balance one could ask for, mostly between 12.5% to 13% alcohol and ideal acidity to preserve freshness.

Fine, bright medium pink-purple in the glass, there is good stuffing to this. It has a solid bouquet with a good concentration of red fruit. It starts strict but then the fruit swells on the palate, with a generous intensity, all held in place by a firm structure.

Franck Follin-Arbelet reports a relatively small crop, after a difficult flowering (too hot and dry) and some hail in Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. Nonetheless the grapes resisted the damp middle of the summer well and ripened properly at the end. Harvest began on 13th September and though the sorting table was needed to remove hail damage and dried grapes, the results here are very successful in 2014.

Another classic Camille Giroud cuvee, this is a brisk, fresh red-purple with a suave, silky yet powerful nose. Full of fruit on the palate, in a wide register, medium-bodied, notably satiny, a Corton of great finesse and breeding. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

David Croix picked relatively late for his reds, from October 3rd to 16th, but he wisely took the whites in first from 29th September to 2nd October. Overall he has been able to source more wine than for the pitifully small 2012 crop. These are beautiful wines, a marvellous expression of Pinot Noir, suited for medium term keeping.

Rich, imperial purple with a huge, generous nose, this is exciting. A vast bundle of ripe dark fruit, some plums, some cherries, really very stylish indeed, and excellent length.  Very good weight, still lively and very long. 
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

The 2013 grapes were picked between 30th September and 11th October. The white skins were fragile so pressing was very gentle, the reds more robust and capable of a good proportion of whole bunch fermentation. Most wines are now in tank with bottling a little earlier than usual. An exceptional range of reds in particular from Bouchard this year.

East-facing below the Charlemagne holding, this was one of the last wines to be picked. Intense purple in colour, this displays a fresh nose – clear cut and mineral. It is very intense but not too muscular, good with grape tannins and fresh hillside acidity. Very persistent.

Frédéric Weber has taken over prime winemaking responsibilities from Philippe Prost. He shares with his predecessor the ability to talk eloquently about his wines, with an excellent knowledge of each terroir. One change here is the increasing use of whole bunches during fermentation, though more in the Côte de Nuits than Côte de Beaune this year. Overall, these are excellent wines.

The grapes for this are purchased, from parcels facing Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix and Pernand-Vergelesses, which gives a complete reading of the terroir of the vineyard. The nose has notes of stone fruit, a little pineapple and just a whiff of bacon fat. The palate is rich and dense with a warming ripeness, but all the while underpinned by a citrus core of acidity. An excellent Corton-Charlemagne. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

After studying at business school, Olivier Leflaive headed to Paris to live a rather bohemian life during the 1970s, working in music and television. He returned to Burgundy in 1981 to manage Domaine Leflaive with his uncle Vincent and later his cousin Anne-Claude. Having long-aspired to work for himself, he set up his own négociant business in 1984 and, upon leaving the family domaine a decade later, he gave 15 years’ notice that he would take back his share of the family vines from 2009. Experienced winemaker Franck Grux now makes between 85 and 90 different cuvées, vinifying the equivalent of 120 hectares, of which 17 are estate. The focus here is on elegance and finesse over power. Winemaker Franck Grux is very pleased with the quality of the 2016 vintage, although he explained that the frost damage caused grapes to ripen at different times, which required a great deal of patience and necessitated extending the harvest to three weeks, as opposed to the normal two. The Puligny vineyards were relatively lucky in terms of frost damage, giving good yields. Franck explained that he carried out more lees stirring in 2016 than in 2015 to give the wines more weight, feeling that 2016 is a vintage with comparatively modest body and ripeness. Unless otherwise stated, all wines are domaine.

Rich purple with a lively, sumptuous dense fruit, this is very rich with a great crunch behind. Needs much more time. Massive with a good fresh finish but is just a bust a babe in arms at the moment.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Faiveley use three picking teams. Two started in the white wine vineyards on 28th September and were finished in four days. Then it was all hands to the red grapes. In general the harvest came in healthily, the hard work all year round in the vineyards paying dividends. We were once again very impressed.

An excellent, medium deep colour heralds an elegantly fragrant nose, with a great deal behind. This is sensitively handled – it’s by no means a blockbuster and is very sensual in the mouth with a long finish. David’s deft touch with Corton continues.

Tasting with David Croix at Camille Giroud is always a pleasure, especially so this year as the range of 2014s is delicious. David feels that the wines are all about drinkability and balance rather than exceptional power. His theory is that the great start to the growing season kept the vines healthy through the cool, damp summer.

A rich, generous colour that’s full, yet bright purple, with very intense fruit and a touch of graphite. It continues to black cherries, with some bright red fruit notes, and a huge mouthful through the mid palate, leading to an exquisitely stylish finish with some oak and very good length.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The new era at Faiveley is now into its sixth vintage and the house style, which allows the fruit to express itself in a very seductive manner while enhancing the individual qualities of each terroir, has been safely established. Now the management is concentrating on reinforcing their supplybase with some crafty contracts and vineyard purchases in both Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. We may be able to offer more cuvées in the future, and though opportunities are clearly limited by the 2012 vintage circumstances, we have been well looked after this year.

This is fine, bright, fresh and clear. It has a lovely weight of fruit with a little toast but there is huge energy too, with a soft fleshy coating. The natural stony vibrancy of this wine soon comes up to displace the toast and you can feel the sunshine. It will benefit from the next few months in barrel. Drink 2020-2027.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

After three miserable harvests (in size) and with the 2016 catastrophe to come, Patrick Javillier is very happy with 2015 which at last constituted a “normal” crop. He began picking on 28th August, deliberately very early, as the degrees were already there (around 13) but still with an excellent acid balance. His wines are suave, juicy and yet appealingly fresh in 2015.

The first vineyard to be picked, this is pale yellow in colour, with an orange blossom nose that is ripe and charming. Some stony elements appear underneath the floral notes. There is good acidity to the finish and certainly persistence. Drink 2019-2026.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

Dense deep purple, the 2015 Vercots has a very striking weight of fruit, with some delightful smoky notes in amongst the red fruit. A few whole bunches were incorporated here. Long, stylish finish. Drink 2019-2024.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

Franck Follin speaks cheerfully of very good harvest conditions, with useful rain in late July and occasionally in August. He started on 2nd September, but is less cheerful about the reduced crop after the hail from 2013 and ‘14. The wines have real stuffing yet with very good acidity and silky tannins. Franck thinks that the cool nights played a crucial role in keeping the wines fresh. 

Full purple, and as ever, a magical nose promising so much. In the mouth it shows backward, brooding, weighty dense cherry fruit with very good acidity and there is huge energy throughout. Clos du Roi is a great vineyard and here it is in smart hands.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Winemaker and general manager, David Croix, has been grumbling that he feels he has the temperament of a grower rather than the deal-making knack of a born negoçiant, so he hasn’t found it easy to fill the cellar in 2012. We also find that tasting with him feels like being in a grower’s cellar, though Camille Giroud only owns a couple of vineyards. There are, nevertheless, one or two really exciting new wines here this year, notably the Volnay Santenots, and the whole cellar is on top form.

Just two barrels were made this year, instead of six. It has a very attractive bouquet with some fresh pineapple notes and an impressive density, with ripe apples and a generous middle, leading to a fine-boned finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

As far as supply is concerned it’s a topsy turvy position in 2012. Overall, Ben has made plenty of wine but some cuvées are missing this year. The best volumes are with the Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus, which are always a strong point chez Benjamin. From a standing start in 2007 Benjamin has made truly exciting progress, and has grown his business a little more quickly than expected as great opportunities have come his way. Yet each year he still doesn’t seem to have quite enough wine to satisfy demand. Wines marked † are bottled under stelvin screwcap closures.

Rather more aromatic than the 2005 at the same stage, this has superb depth and an impressive breadth of fruit on the palate. Pale lemon and lime in colour, the muscular yet elegant texture could not be bettered. Fleshy, yet with a scintillating minerality, this will be an exceptional Corton- Charlemagne for the long term.