Aloxe Corton

Vibrant mid-purple in colour, there is a beguiling nose of cherry stone with some intriguing spice notes. The palate has good medium weight of red berry fruit and a pleasant, chalky structure that gives a long, palate- cleansing finish. Drink 2020-2025.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Franck Follin-Arbelet has created an estate in Aloxe-Corton where his ancestors used to have vineyards in the late 19th century, before they were subsequently sold off. As a child he spent holidays in the village, working part time in the vineyards and in due course marrying a local girl whose family had some vines – enough for Franck to set up as a vigneron in 1993, subsequently adding further vines through rental agreements. Franck Follin was caught between two emotions when we visited him in the autumn; his immediate thoughts were of the 2017 harvest, which represents the largest crop he has made, while we were there to taste his smallest ever vintage, 2016. With the exception of Corton- Charlemagne, Corton-Bressandes and Romanée-St Vivant, everything was very badly hit by frost. Despite this, Franck is delighted with the quality, declaring 2016 a classic vintage with good concentration and great ageing potential.

Hold the front page: Thibault managed to make half a barrel more of this than in 2015! Just below Maréchaudes, on the Ladoix border, this is a not-so- typical Aloxe with big tannins. All the fruit was de-stemmed, and 50 percent new oak was used; the result is pure and direct, frank and sincere. Drink 2020-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

In 2001 Thibault took over an old family property in Nuits-St Georges, reclaiming the vines which had been contracted out to various share-croppers. The family jewels ( his branch) consist of Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot and Nuits-St Georges Les St Georges, to which he has added further vineyards and a few cuvées made from purchased grapes. The vineyards are certified organic and farmed biodynamically, with horses used to plough the vineyards where possible. The oak regime is not to exceed 50 percent new barrels but also not to use any barrels more than three years old. Thibault has also developed several single-vineyard bottlings of Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais). In summer 2017 Thibault opened a new, environmentally friendly cuverie which harnesses geothermal and solar energy and recycles rainwater. Thibault Liger-Belair is a busy man. He has his fascinating project in Moulin-à- Vent (find his Cru Beaujolais wines on page 55) as well as overseeing the forestry and manufacture of the barrels for all his wines, and experimenting with very light toasting. Overall, he is quietly satisfied with this year’s results. He continues to work with varying levels of whole bunches and is trialling a refinement which involves removing the thick, central stalk of bunches, to leave mini-bunches. He was especially badly hit by frost in the Hautes Côtes and Chambolle but elsewhere this is a relatively happy cellar.

Very dense purple with vibrant, heartwarming fruit, real density of the palate, a little black fruit but more deep red, some acidity, crunchy minerals. Very well put together, a wine which should sing in the medium to long term.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

When purchased in 2004, the vineyard was planted with Pinot Noir but, being southeast facing and with a light and slightly gravelly soil, it was felt it would be a better suited to Chardonnay. Nevertheless, a vineyard capable of ripening red grapes will endow a white wine with a certain opulence and, against the stricter style from Corton-Charlemagne round the hill towards Pernand, this is veritably exotic. The vineyard wasn’t frosted and the wine is positive and direct. Drink 2020-2027.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

Domaine de Montille was developed by Hubert de Montille (1930-2014), a prominent Dijon lawyer, who inherited 2.5 hectares of vineyards in Volnay in 1947. Over the years he acquired further parcels in Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets. Today the business is run by his son Étienne who has extended the domaine by purchases of vineyards in Beaune, Corton and the Côte de Nuits, including some marvellous Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the red wines are increasingly vinified with whole bunches. Following the splendid successes here in 2015, this vintage provides a contrast in style, but with reasons to buy that are just as compelling. Volumes are down in certain appellations and winemaking has been tempered to release more of the vintage’s purity of fruit and definition of terroir. Use of whole bunches for the reds continues, but not by rote, with proportions being adjusted according to each cuvée’s requirements.

Made from a blend of En Charlemagne and Le Corton, this has a fine, pale colour with a faint straw tint, and some green hints. The nose shows Grand Cru quality while remaining discreet. Subtle notes of ripe fruit, some peach and a little bit of banana give way to rich fruit and some powerful structure which does not yet quite knit together. There is a huge amount of weight here and this will all integrate.

This was a near-perfect harvest for Sylvain, with scarcely any need to sort the healthy grapes, and better volumes across the piece apart from a little hail in Ladoix. He has cut back on his négociant activities and all the wines below are from his own domaine. The whites are predictably beautiful this year and the reds much less reductive than in the past.

Pure and pale in colour, with a magical glowing intensity of white fruit, some lemon and lime notes and a great stony purity – indeed the precision of the detail is spectacular. This has lovely flesh, perfect balance and is very fine indeed.

Franck Follin-Arbelet reports a relatively small crop, after a difficult flowering (too hot and dry) and some hail in Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. Nonetheless the grapes resisted the damp middle of the summer well and ripened properly at the end. Harvest began on 13th September and though the sorting table was needed to remove hail damage and dried grapes, the results here are very successful in 2014.

Bright intense purple, this is also extraordinarily intense on the palate, with vibrant black fruit almost bramble jelly, yet high acidity to maintain the necessary freshness. It should come together nicely in the medium term.
Jasper Morris, MW - Wine Buyer

Thibault is enthusiastic about his wines from the hill of Corton in 2012. This Aloxe certainly demonstrates a pure and sensual dark red fruit, with cherries and plums. The texture is seamless and the flavours persist admirably on the palate.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

Thibault’s two domaines, based in Moulin à Vent and Nuits-St Georges, both returned paltry yields of 16 hl/ha in 2012. Among the Côte d’Or appellations, the Hautes Côtes, Nuits and Gevrey-Chambertin suffered in particular. All of which is a great shame, given the quality of the wines which have been made. Even where Thibault purchases grapes (Aloxe-Corton and Chambolle- Musigny), Thibault makes the major decisions in the vineyard management. His own vines are farmed biodynamically, with ploughing by horse.

A rich, generous colour that’s full, yet bright purple, with very intense fruit and a touch of graphite. It continues to black cherries, with some bright red fruit notes, and a huge mouthful through the mid palate, leading to an exquisitely stylish finish with some oak and very good length.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

The new era at Faiveley is now into its sixth vintage and the house style, which allows the fruit to express itself in a very seductive manner while enhancing the individual qualities of each terroir, has been safely established. Now the management is concentrating on reinforcing their supplybase with some crafty contracts and vineyard purchases in both Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. We may be able to offer more cuvées in the future, and though opportunities are clearly limited by the 2012 vintage circumstances, we have been well looked after this year.

Glowing purple, with vigorous raspberry fruit, there is lots of energy here; the result of smart winemaking on fine terroir. There is good fruit-to-acid balance, and the wine is certainly very lively at the finish, with excellent fruit weight.

“A vintage of pure happiness,” enthuses Nicolas Potel. He rightly retains enthusiasm for Burgundy as a whole and his own wines in particular, though his life has been made more difficult by the explosion of prices for grapes on the open market. However these cuvées make sense to us: we tasted a wide range and picked out the plums.

The first vineyard to be picked, this is pale yellow in colour, with an orange blossom nose that is ripe and charming. Some stony elements appear underneath the floral notes. There is good acidity to the finish and certainly persistence. Drink 2019-2026.
Jasper Morris MW, Wine Buyer

This is a vintage to buy from Domaine de Montille without hesitation, whether it be the Bourgogne Rouge, a Grand Cru or indeed anything in between, such as his marvellous Volnays and Pommards. The whites are very smart, too. In common with other vignerons, Etienne and his cellar master, Brian Sieve, have opted for a higher proportion of whole bunches this year. The grapes were picked between 1st and 5th September, with alcohol levels coming in below 13 percent.

Just two barrels were made this year, instead of six. It has a very attractive bouquet with some fresh pineapple notes and an impressive density, with ripe apples and a generous middle, leading to a fine-boned finish.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director

As far as supply is concerned it’s a topsy turvy position in 2012. Overall, Ben has made plenty of wine but some cuvées are missing this year. The best volumes are with the Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus, which are always a strong point chez Benjamin. From a standing start in 2007 Benjamin has made truly exciting progress, and has grown his business a little more quickly than expected as great opportunities have come his way. Yet each year he still doesn’t seem to have quite enough wine to satisfy demand. Wines marked † are bottled under stelvin screwcap closures.

The Bressandes vineyard is a gently sloping, superbly placed site with deep clay/chalk soil delivering a sweet-fruit wine of real precision and fine structure. Drink from 2013.

Burgundy 2009 Best Buys – Grand Cru Wines
Giroud's Corton Grand Cru jumps out of the glass with a bolt of perfumed raspberries and cassis. It has lively fresh acidity and real staying power, is constant from start to finish, and is accompanied all the way on the palate by a core of powerful fruit flavours. This is delicacy and power, perfectly married.

David Croix has used 35% whole bunches in vinifying this Corton Grand Cru wine, whereas he normally de-stems entirely. The result is a gifted, perfumed nose with amazing length, and prime dancing qualities at the fore.
Jasper Morris MW, Buyer

Opinions within the Berrys team were evenly divided between this wine and the Corton Rognet. Some preferred the elegant touch of the former but others were adamantly in favour of the majesty of the Clos du Roi. It has rich red fruit, supported by oak, a touch of chocolate at the back of the palate, and perfectly ripe tannins. This is a seamless and complete wine from Maison Camille Giroud.

With intriguing banana and pineapple notes and beautifully plump fruit on the palate, this Corton-Charlemagne Le Charlemagne Grand Cru from la Vougeraie has a fabulous vibrating energy and a wonderfully long finish.

The brilliantly rich and dense bouquet of this Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru is well supported by a wonderful intensity of fruit on the palate that sits perfectly on the cusp of red and black flavours. This is a really fabulous wine.

Grown on the Pernand side of the appellation, this is a brilliant Corton-Charlemagne. It has an exceptional density of flavour, a bit like licking lemon infused stones, and is really vibrant and stylish.
Jasper Morris MW, Berrys' Burgundy Director