Volnay Les Caillerets

Four barrels from one parcel, this is a regal Volnay, flattering yet compelling at the same time. There were two-thirds whole-bunch this year, but Ben makes the decision for this vineyard based on the quality of the vines’ genetic material, mostly on the basis of its 70-year-old vines. Drink 2023-2029.

It is fair to say that Ben is very happy with 2017, describing it as the kind of vintage he would sign up for every year. The whites, he says, are beautiful, and not far from 2014 in style, with purity, finesse, great definition and balance. He describes the reds as pretty, appealing and with body to support ageing, while highlighting the importance of lower-yielding old vines for serious ageing. He eloquently explains that there is no “black sheep” in 2017, that no village has underperformed. For reason of space, the limited volumes of Grands Crus have not been included in this brochure. Since the 2014 vintage, all white wines are bottled under screwcap.

 In contrast to the jovial expressiveness of the prior wines this is much more reserved with its ripe yet cool aromas of dark berry fruit liqueur, spice and wet stone. The silky and equally cool and restrained middle weight flavors offer outstanding definition on the rich, energetic and hugely long saline-infused finish. This is one seriously impressive Caillerets but note well that it's built to age. Drink to 2023+
94/100 Allen Meadows, burghound.com

After six years managing the vineyard, the Lafarges have now got their Caillerets where they want it, as the quality of the 2009 abundantly shows. The fruit is astonishingly pure and really intense, and it lingers deliciously on the palate.