2004 Champagne Gosset, Célébris, Extra Brut
Critics reviews
The 2005 is 55% Chardonnay (from Chouilly, Cramant and Le Mesnil sur Oger) and 45% Pinot Noir (from Aÿ, Bouzy and Verzy).
Gosset's 2004 Extra Brut Celebris is a powerful, bracing wine. Pinot Noir-infused red stone fruits, dried leaves, mint, herbs, spice notes, and low dosage give the wine its distinctive combination of power, breadth, and raciness. The 2004 needs a bit of time for the bouquet to open up, but the wine is quite expressive when they do. Now 12 years after the vintage, the 2004 Celebris offers a good bit of aromatic and flavour intensity, with slightly mature notes typical for a wine of this age. Chamomile, honey and lightly roasted almond are some nuances that linger through to the creamy, expansive finish.
Drink 2016 - 2026
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (December 2016)
Tasted in August 2018 from lot L6125111 with five grams per litre dosage.
The 2004 Celebris Vintage Extra-Brut blends 55% Chardonnay from Chouilly, Cramant and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger with 45% Pinot Noir from Aÿ, Bouzy and Verzy. Intensely golden-yellow in colour, the reductive yet dense and immensely aromatic bouquet reveals herbal/floral and mineral rather than fruity aromas. There are flavours from ancient, very small pear varieties from the empty glass. Full-bodied, fresh and elegant, this is a round and well-structured 2004 whose finish is still a bit dryish. Minty flavours are displayed in the fresh and evolved but also (still) discreet aftertaste.
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate (October 2018)
A famously large harvest and one where the inverse relationship between quantity and quality did not really hold sway, as this terrific Célébris so eloquently demonstrates. In 2021, this wine has enjoyed seven years of post-disgorgement ageing and appears to have benefited from the experience by shunning any apparition of leafy seniority and by maintaining a crisp, honeyed, stone fruit freshness, vinous complexity after that and a cerebral, slightly salty finish which is beautifully rendered.
Drink 2022 - 2027
Simon Field MW, Decanter.com (July 2021)
About this WINE
Gosset
Gosset is the oldest wine-producer in Champagne, with a history stretching back to 1584 – when red, rather than sparkling wines were the region’s calling card.
Situated in the tiny Grand Cru village of Aÿ, five kilometres from Epernay, quality-focused Gosset has some rather famous neighbours, including Bollinger; its production, however, is much below that of the larger Houses, at around 1.3 million bottles (Moët & Chandon, for comparison, makes close to 30 million).
Gosset crafts truly artisan and gastronomic Champagnes, wines which are often seen in Michelin-star restaurants across the world. Newly appointed Chef de Caves Odilon de Varine (who took over in 2016) carries on the hallmark style of the House: extended aging “sur lees” in the cellars gives the wines extra richness and complexity in the finished glass, while the wines often don’tt undergo malolactic fermentation, to preserve the wines’ acidity and freshness. The results tend to be very creamy, dry and full, with rich, biscuit notes, framed by a trademark mineral freshness.
The House produces a range of different wines, including a range of non-vintage bottlings: the House’s flagship multi-vintage blend Grande Réserve, its Blanc de Blancs and Rosé. As for vintage wines, its Grand Millésime is joined by the “prestige” Celebris cuvées, which are only produced in the very best years.
Today the House is owned by the Renaud-Cointreau group, a family firm that also owns Cognac Frapin.
Brut Champagne
Brut denotes a dry style of Champagne (less than 15 grams per litre). Most Champagne is non-vintage, produced from a blend from different years. The non-vintage blend is always based predominately on wines made from the current harvest, enriched with aged wines (their proportion and age varies by brand) from earlier harvests, which impart an additional level of complexity to the end wine. Champagnes from a single vintage are labelled with the year reference and with the description Millésimé.
Non-vintage Champagnes can improve with short-term ageing (typically two to three years), while vintages can develop over much longer periods (five to 30 years). The most exquisite and often top-priced expression of a house’s style is referred to as Prestige Cuvée. Famous examples include Louis Roederer's Cristal, Moët & Chandon's Dom Pérignon, and Pol Roger's Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill.
Recommended Producers : Krug, Billecart Salmon, Pol Roger, Bollinger, Salon, Gosset, Pierre Péters, Ruinart
Champagne blend
Which grapes are included in the blend, and their proportion, is one of the key factors determining the style of most Champagnes. Three grapes are used - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
26% of vineyards in Champagne are planted with Chardonnay and it performs best on the Côtes des Blancs and on the chalk slopes south of Epernay. It is relatively simple to grow, although it buds early and thus is susceptible to spring frosts. It produces lighter, fresher wines than those from Burgundy and gives finesse, fruit and elegance to the final blend. It is the sole grape in Blancs de Blancs, which are some of the richest long-lived Champagnes produced.
Pinot Noir accounts for nearly 40% of the plantings in Champagne and lies at the heart of most blends - it gives Champagne its body, structure, strength and grip. It is planted across Champagne and particularly so in the southern Aube district.
The final component is Pinot Meunier and this constitutes nearly 35% of the plantings. Its durability and resistance to spring frosts make the Marne Valley, a notorious frost pocket, its natural home. It ripens well in poor years and produces a soft, fruity style of wine that is ideal for blending with the more assertive flavours of Pinot Noir. Producers allege that Pinot Meunier lacks ageing potential, but this does not deter Krug from including around 15% of it in their final blends.
When is a wine ready to drink?
We provide drinking windows for all our wines. Alongside the drinking windows there is a bottle icon and a maturity stage. Bear in mind that the best time to drink a wine does also depend on your taste.
Not ready
These wines are very young. Whilst they're likely to have lots of intense flavours, their acidity or tannins may make them feel austere. Although it isn't "wrong" to drink these wines now, you are likely to miss out on a lot of complexity by not waiting for them to mature.
Ready - youthful
These wines are likely to have plenty of fruit flavours still and, for red wines, the tannins may well be quite noticeable. For those who prefer younger, fruitier wines, or if serving alongside a robust meal, these will be very enjoyable. If you choose to hold onto these wines, the fruit flavours will evolve into more savoury complexity.
Ready - at best
These wines are likely to have a beautiful balance of fruit, spice and savoury flavours. The acidity and tannins will have softened somewhat, and the wines will show plenty of complexity. For many, this is seen as the ideal time to drink and enjoy these wines. If you choose to hold onto these wines, they will become more savoury but not necessarily more complex.
Ready - mature
These wines are likely to have plenty of complexity, but the fruit flavours will have been almost completely replaced by savoury and spice notes. These wines may have a beautiful texture at this stage of maturity. There is lots to enjoy when drinking wines at this stage. Most of these wines will hold in this window for a few years, though at the very end of this drinking window, wines start to lose complexity and decline.
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Description
The 2005 is 55% Chardonnay (from Chouilly, Cramant and Le Mesnil sur Oger) and 45% Pinot Noir (from Aÿ, Bouzy and Verzy).
Gosset's 2004 Extra Brut Celebris is a powerful, bracing wine. Pinot Noir-infused red stone fruits, dried leaves, mint, herbs, spice notes, and low dosage give the wine its distinctive combination of power, breadth, and raciness. The 2004 needs a bit of time for the bouquet to open up, but the wine is quite expressive when they do. Now 12 years after the vintage, the 2004 Celebris offers a good bit of aromatic and flavour intensity, with slightly mature notes typical for a wine of this age. Chamomile, honey and lightly roasted almond are some nuances that linger through to the creamy, expansive finish.
Drink 2016 - 2026
Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com (December 2016)
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