2020 Fleurie, Julien Sunier, Beaujolais
Nowadays Julien Sunier’s Fleurie is a bend of two plot, one higher and one lower on the slopes. Glowing fresh purple, the fruit lifts wonderfully on the palate, roses but essentially a really intense red fruit.
Jasper Morris MW, insideburgundy.com (Apr 2022)
Eye-poppingly bright, this Fleurie is brimming with spring-flower aromas and crushed red-berry character. Yet behind all this effusion is quite a serious tannin structure that makes the sleek finish pretty dry. Good aging potential. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
James Suckling, jamessuckling.com (Apr 2022)
About this WINE
Domaine Julien Sunier
Born in Dijon to a non-winemaking family, Julien Sunier decided in his teens to pursue a career in wine. His interest was fostered by Christophe Roumier, a friend of his parents. After studying oenology and viticulture at university, Julien did work experience with Roumier and with Jasper Morris MW (the leading Burgundy specialist), in Jasper’s days running Morris & Verdin.
Julien settled in Beaujolais to work for the large Boisset group, but always intended to establish his own domaine. In 2007 his purchased two hectares in Fleurie, which he farmed organically from the outset. Today his domaine extends to a little over five hectares – a small but perfectly formed property, with holdings in Fleurie, Régnié and Morgon. As well as wines from the crus, he makes a fabulous Beaujolais-Villages – Wild Soul – from bought-in grapes, grown in Lantignié.
Julien’s approach in the winery is hands-off: he uses only natural yeast, minimal SO2 and rarely filters his wines, which are characterised by scintillating floral aromatics, great freshness, and a sense of place and energy. He is now well-established as one of the region’s star producers, part of a wave of talented, ambitious young winemakers (many of those dedicated to organic viticulture) who are today redefining how Beaujolais is perceived.
Evocatively-named, Fleurie epitomises all that is good about the region with its perfumed, silky, moreish style. Its 800ha of vineyards produce some of the finest, popular and most expensive wines in the region. As its name suggests, this quintessential Beaujolais is fresh, floral, fragrant and feminine.
Despite initial impressions to the contrary, its silky fruit has suprising depth and concentration that allows the wine to age as well as any in the region. At the same time it is wonderfully approachable almost immediately, which may also explain its popularity. Its more powerful examples, like Michel Chignard's ‘Les Moriers’ come from close to the border with northerly neighbour Moulin-à-Vent.
Recommended Producers: André Colonge, Michel Chignard, Bernard Métrat .
A French variety planted predominately in Beaujolais where it is the grape behind everything from light and often acidic Beaujolais Nouveau through to the more serious and well-structured wines from the 10 cru villages. It takes its name from a hamlet just outside Chassagne-Montrachet and was at one stage widely planted on the Côte d`Or. However it was gradually phased out due to its poor yield and supposed poor quality of its wines.
The majority of Gamay wines in Beaujolais are labelled as Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages and are deliciously juicy, easy drinking, gulpable wines. Of more interest are the Cru wines from the 10 villages in the north of the region where the soil is predominantly granitic schist and where the vines are planted on gently undulating slopes. These can be well-structured, intensely perfumed wines, redolent of ripe black fruits and, while delicious young, will reward medium term cellaring.
Gamay is also grown in the Touraine region of the Loire where it produces soft, well-balanced, gluggable wines for drinking young.
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Julien Sunier’s Fleurie is always a pleasure to drink, and the 2020 vintage is no exception. This is a benchmark expression of the charm and seduction of Fleurie, with fruit sourced from two vineyards: one high on the slope, the other lower down on sandier soil, adding layers of complexity to the blend. The nose is wonderfully lifted, with potpourri-like floral notes and dense summer berries. Succulent redcurrant, strawberry and cranberry fruit flavours dominate a wonderfully juicy palate, which finishes off with a cleansing, mouthwatering finish. Drink now – 2026.
Adam Bruntlett, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Aug 2022)
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