Germany
The 102,000 hectares of German vineyards produce the world’s greatest Rieslings, the grape’s touch of sweetness underpinned by a racy acidity and a fresh purity from the fruit. Germany is the tenth largest wine producer in the world. Its vineyards are close to the major rivers and their tributaries, and the continental climate is perfect for late-harvest wines. White grapes make up 64 percent of plantings, with reds on the rise.
The 102,000 hectares of German vineyards produce some of the world’s greatest white wines from the Riesling grape. With a run of excellent vintages, top estate wines are at long last fashionable, with Riesling finally getting the acknowledgment it deserves. Its touch of sweetness is underpinned by a racy acidity and a fresh purity from the fruit.
Germany is the tenth largest wine-producer in the world. Its vineyards are centred around the major rivers – ie the Rhine and the Mosel – as well as their tributaries. The continental climate with its hot summers, cold winters and long, warm autumns is perfect for late-harvest wines. The finest examples are produced on steep, often terraced, south-facing vineyards close to the rivers. The maintenance and the harvesting of the vines are often done by hand.
White grapes make up 64 percent of plantings, with the proportion of red grapes increasing. Riesling has a knack of maintaining its varietal character while reflecting the terroir of its site, so while all German Rieslings have that balance of nerve-tingling pure fruit and refreshing acidity, there are definite regional differences.
The steep, slaty slopes of the Mosel Valley produce the lightest, most mineral Rieslings, with firm, steely examples coming from its tributaries, the Saar and Ruwer. The south-facing slopes of the Rheingau are drier and sunnier, so the wines there are fuller. The underrated Nahe lies in between the Mosel and Rheingau both stylistically and geographically, while the large Rheinhessen region can produce firm, full and racy Rieslings. The Pfalz further south is warmer, hence its wines are richer.
Traditional wines have a degree of sweetness but there has been a move towards dry and medium-dry styles (ie trocken and halbtrocken), which made up just over 65 percent of production in 2012.
In an effort to help consumers distinguish dry wines from sweet, the Association of German Prädikat Estates or Verband der Prädikatsweingüter (VDP in German), an organization of almost 200 wineries, decided to introduce a classification system. The objective was to restore the prestige of significant vineyards across Germany: Erste Lage (First Site) and Grosse Lage (Grand/Great Site) refer to the best of the best German wines, made with terroir, regionality and traditional taste criteria in mind. Wines at this level must adhere to a number of regulations, ensuring the quality of bottles bearing the name of an Erste or Grosse Lage.
If the Lage is made in a dry style, it will be classed as either Erstes Gewächs (Premier Growth) or Grosses Gewächs (Grand/Great Growth). Erstes and Grosses Gewächs are premium and super-premium dry wines produced according to strict high standards, handcrafted by Germany’s finest wine-growers. The term promises us fully-fermented, dry wines from the top vineyard sites across Germany. The wines of this exclusive category are from the finest parcels sites and are subject to even stricter production criteria. Grosses Gewächs are some of the greatest dry white wines in the world; powerful, concentrated and saturated with mineral complexity.
Prices:
Fiona Hayes, Wine Buyer
Bottle
£17.25
Bottle 12 x 75cl 51cs
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle
£19.50
Bottle 6 x 75cl 12cs
Bottle
£19.50
Bottle 6 x 75cl 27cs
Bottle
£22.50
Bottle 12 x 75cl 2cs
The soils are made up of grey slate, which is silt, sand and fossil-rich (fossilised shells and crustaceans can clearly be seen in rocks in the vineyard). Facing south-southwest, the vineyard covers 2.2ha. Some smokiness combines with florals and stony minerality on the nose, with a citrus backbone. Great intensity of acidity and fruit structure is somehow delicately wrought in. The wine has a saline finish with real purity and focus. A lightness of touch is particularly evident here and belies the incredible power this wine possesses.
Bottle
£22.85
Bottle 6 x 75cl 5cs
Bottle
£28.95
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle
£33.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 4cs
Bottle
£35.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 2cs
Bottle
£37.36
Bottle
£40.00
Bottle 12 x 75cl 1cs
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 26th April 2012
H/Bottle
£128.00
H/Bottle 1 x 37.5cl 3cs
The wine's prickly pungency is further reflected on the palate, yet along side is a suggestion of creaminess as well as salted caramel and honey from the subtle botrytis concentration that was present before these grapes froze. More viscous and superficially sweet than the A.P. #35, this simultaneously projects intense acidity, even if - as Donnhoff suggests - some acid fell out after the first day's freeze.
Perhaps that effect - or the wine's embryonic state - accounts for the absence of the vibratory intensity that rivets attention on A.P. #35. We have here the same 7.5% alcohol though from more than 20 additional degrees Oechsle because, explains Donnhoff, the yeasts simply couldn't manage any further conversion. For unifying botrytis with frost concentration, and for sheer palate persistence, the elixir in question here is nothing short of phenomenal. "In 20 years," contends Donnhoff with a wry smile and a nod toward this Eiswein, "Cornelius may be able to beat me."
96/100 points, Wine Advocate, Feb 2011 Until 31st August 2017 this product is discounted by 23%. Prices shown include discount; no further discount will be applied at checkout.
H/Bottle
£195.00
H/Bottle 12 x 37.5cl 6cs
The vines that contributed to this exceptionally rare wine are located adjacent to the River Nahe itself, partly obscured from the sun and in a relatively cool air pocket. This apparently unpromising scenario is, in fact, ideal for Eiswein in those rare years when the conditions are suitable. 2007 was such a year and 20th December was deemed to be the day. The wines rarity is matched only by its purity and length.
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 2cs
(David Berry Green)
H/Bottle 12 x 37.5cl 1cs
Magnum 1 x 150cl 1cs
Jeroboam 1 x 300cl 1cs
Laura Godwin - Private Account Manager
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Magnum 1 x 150cl 1cs
(David Berry Green)
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Magnum 1 x 150cl 1cs
Magnum 1 x 150cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl 1cs