Germany
The 102,000 hectares of German vineyards produce the world’s greatest Rieslings, the grape’s touch of sweetness underpinned by a racy acidity and a fresh purity from the fruit. Germany is the tenth largest wine producer in the world. Its vineyards are close to the major rivers and their tributaries, and the continental climate is perfect for late-harvest wines. White grapes make up 64 percent of plantings, with reds on the rise.
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Eva Fricke,
Ready, but will improve,
This is a classic expression of the Rheingau, with fruit blended from the villages of Lorch, Eltville Hattenheim and Kiedrich. A juicier style of Riesling in comparison to Eva’s single site wines, this is wonderfully accessible in its youth. Perfumed with hints of white blossom and stone-fruit on the nose, the palate is bursting with apple and peach, complemented by subtle flecks of slate and citrus fruit. The finish is refreshing with taut acidity. Perfect chilled with Thai curry or fresh fish. Drink now to 2023.
Daisy Gatt, Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
Daisy Gatt, Buying Assistant (spring 2019)
Eva Fricke,
Ready, but will improve,
Eva’s Riesling Verde is a nod to the classic Vinho Verde of Portugal: off-dry in style with light alcohol and feisty acidity. Delicate aromas of peach blossom and mandarin entice on the nose. On the palate fresh citrus aromatics mingle with plush stone-fruit. Bright and accessible, this is a charming summertime wine. Perfect as an apéritif, this would also pair well with pan-fried cod, squid or prawns. Ready to drink now.
Daisy Gatt, Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Daisy Gatt, Buying Assistant (summer 2019)
Ready, but will keep,
This has lifted aromas of apricot, lime pith and orange blossom. There is a generous concentration and weight to the palate, which is a definite nod to the old vines and extended time spent on lees. Subtle spice aromatics define the long and refreshing finish. This would pair well with spicy king prawns or Caesar salad. Drink now to 2023.
Daisy Gatt, Buying Assistant (summer 2018)
Daisy Gatt, Buying Assistant (summer 2018)
Donnhoff,
Ready, but will improve,
The 2016 Nahe Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese is bright, fresh and coolish-piquant on the nose, with flinty and slightly reductive aromas. Lush and piquant on the palate, this is a generous, mouth-filling Spätlese with a long, piquant and spicy-mineral finish. The Hermannshöhle is more dense and rich on the palate, the Brücke more light, delicate and finessed.
Stephan Reinhardt - 28/02/2018
Stephan Reinhardt - 28/02/2018
Donnhoff,
Ready, but will keep,
We couldn't harvest all of the frozen grapes in a day,-" explains Donnhoff in a continuation of his Eiswein narrative and an account of his 2009 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein A.P. #36. "But I was ok with that - it didn't matter to me now. In the afternoon came the news -you can fly out tonight- (to Paris for a vacation). The next morning, it was even colder. Now it was my son's chance, and so there is an Eiswein Helmut and an Eiswein Cornelius," namely this A.P. #36. One whiff makes the hairs in my nostrils stand on end.
The wine's prickly pungency is further reflected on the palate, yet along side is a suggestion of creaminess as well as salted caramel and honey from the subtle botrytis concentration that was present before these grapes froze. More viscous and superficially sweet than the A.P. #35, this simultaneously projects intense acidity, even if - as Donnhoff suggests - some acid fell out after the first day's freeze.
Perhaps that effect - or the wine's embryonic state - accounts for the absence of the vibratory intensity that rivets attention on A.P. #35. We have here the same 7.5% alcohol though from more than 20 additional degrees Oechsle because, explains Donnhoff, the yeasts simply couldn't manage any further conversion. For unifying botrytis with frost concentration, and for sheer palate persistence, the elixir in question here is nothing short of phenomenal. "In 20 years," contends Donnhoff with a wry smile and a nod toward this Eiswein, "Cornelius may be able to beat me."
96/100 points, Wine Advocate, Feb 2011
The wine's prickly pungency is further reflected on the palate, yet along side is a suggestion of creaminess as well as salted caramel and honey from the subtle botrytis concentration that was present before these grapes froze. More viscous and superficially sweet than the A.P. #35, this simultaneously projects intense acidity, even if - as Donnhoff suggests - some acid fell out after the first day's freeze.
Perhaps that effect - or the wine's embryonic state - accounts for the absence of the vibratory intensity that rivets attention on A.P. #35. We have here the same 7.5% alcohol though from more than 20 additional degrees Oechsle because, explains Donnhoff, the yeasts simply couldn't manage any further conversion. For unifying botrytis with frost concentration, and for sheer palate persistence, the elixir in question here is nothing short of phenomenal. "In 20 years," contends Donnhoff with a wry smile and a nod toward this Eiswein, "Cornelius may be able to beat me."
96/100 points, Wine Advocate, Feb 2011
Donnhoff,
Ready, but will improve,
The vines that contributed to this exceptionally rare wine are located adjacent to the River Nahe itself, partly obscured from the sun and in a relatively cool air pocket. This apparently unpromising scenario is, in fact, ideal for Eiswein in those rare years when the conditions are suitable. 2007 was such a year and 20th December was deemed to be the day. The wines rarity is matched only by its purity and length.
Donnhoff,
Ready, but will keep,
This time on grey slate from the village of Norheim, closer to the Rhine & so warmer. As a result the wine is broader, fleshier, pulpier with distinct soft citrus fruit appeal & character while at the same time being delicate & spring water fresh. One for earlier, midterm drinking.
(David Berry Green)
(David Berry Green)
Donnhoff,
Ready, but will keep,
One of Helmut’s favourite vineyards, the 2ha Krotenpfuhl site in the village of Kreuznach nearby always seems to show a delicate, spring-water like character; especially in 2010 with the 35 grams of residual sugar balancing out the highly detailed fruit. Drinking now or will develop till 2020 at least.
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)
Donnhoff,
Ready, but will improve,
While Brücke’s character is favoured by Helmut’s mother, Hermannshöhle is very much his father’s; female versus male. Hermannshöhle has prime position overlooking Oberhäusen, on free-draining grey slate. Helmut also favours it, seeing it as the region’s primary vineyard; their original plot planted in the year he was born: 1949. Focussed and filigree there’s a smoky linearity that streaks ahead, underpin by a cool rocky fruit. Drinking from 2020.
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)
Donnhoff,
Ready, but will improve,
The Leistenberg vineyard benefits from being south-east facing, enabling the morning dew to be quickly dried, so avoiding botrytis and facilitating a long hang time till the November harvest in 2010. As the result the wine’s spotlessly clean; the porous grey slate enabling the soil’s calcareous minerality to be felt. Soft, gentle, pulpy lemon and feminine. Drinking now or will develop till 2020.
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)
(David Berry Green, Berrys' Germany Buyer)
Katherine Dart MW, Wine Buyer (autumn 2018)