1998 Champagne
Learn more about 1998 Champagne
1998 in Champagne, like, say, 2004 in Spain, is a vintage that has continued to grow in reputation with the passage of time. For some its putative progress has been the reverse of that of vintage 1996, so lauded in the early days and now causing a little concern as some of the wines appear to lack inherent balance, some still with searing acidity and yet others oxidising quickly………..not all I hasten to add.
Anyway, 1998 is the vintage for which one takes out and polishes either the cliché helter-skelter or the cliché roller-coaster. Both are equally apt to describe this extraordinary year; a sunny winter, then a very rainy April, then an early summer which alternated between extremes of temperature ( there was even frost late in May) and then a heat wave in August to threaten yields. Rainstorms in early September and sunshine at harvest time complete the picture. Empiricism and patience have been the only way to judge, although the matching high levels of both sugar and acidity from the outset were good omens. Now the wines seem to get better and better. Outstanding examples were made by Billecart Salmon, Mailly and Dom Ruinart.
Simon Field MW, BBR Champagne Buyer
The blend is shared between with 75% Pinot Noir , which dominates benevolently and lends rich savoury notes, and a balance of Chardonnay which is effortlessly elegant, floral and poised. Characteristic and seductive notes of acacia, ginger and cinnamon complement the usual descriptors of brioche, pear and blossom, lending complexity and fascination, qualities which are underlined yet further by the subtle nuances bequeathed by fifteen years of lees ageing.
Simon Field MW, Champagne Buyer
There are three plenitudes in the life of a given vintage: the first plenitude spans between seven to eight years after the vintage, which is when Dom Pérignon Vintage is released, while the second one arrives between 12 and 15 years – which was previously the first oenothèque release, but from now will be branded as P2. The third window comes after around 30 years, when the Champagne has spent more than 20 years on its lees, which will now be termed as P3.
For a 16 year old wine this is very youthful in appearance and certainly belies its age. The nose is very well endowed with sweet yellow fruit and as intense a shortbread and brioche character as I’ve seen in any mature Champagne for years. This concentration continues onto the palate where it is elegant yet rigorous and well proportioned. There is a notable and refreshing salinity immediately on the front of the palate which tapers all the way through to the finish. The finish, as with all Dom Perignon is firm and long. This would make a wonderful match for Scallops & Lardo di Colonnata.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager
This is a very stylish wine which (as usual) has gained a lot by the deferred disgorgement. This is a velvety, mineral-embossed aristocrat that sounds loud and clear like a symphony by Dvôrak"
Richard Juhlin, Champagneclub.com - 95/100 points
For the second plenitude (P2), we’re looking for the peak of energy, intensity and vibrancy, showing the wine in high-definition.
Richard Geoffroy, Dom Perignon, Chef de Cave