1998 Champagne

1998 Champagne Mailly, Magnum Collection, Grand Cru @ £330 per 3 magnums in bond The gifted winemakers at Mailly Grand Cru, Hervé Danton and his protégé, Sébastien Moncuit, have made a definitive statement of intent with their outstanding Magnum Collection Range. Mailly produces some of the most powerful and long-lived wines in Champagne, and this superb magnum from 1998 is one of the very best that they have ever made .

The blend is shared between with 75% Pinot Noir , which dominates benevolently and lends rich savoury notes, and a balance of Chardonnay which is effortlessly elegant, floral and poised. Characteristic and seductive notes of acacia, ginger and cinnamon complement the usual descriptors of brioche, pear and blossom, lending complexity and fascination, qualities which are underlined yet further by the subtle nuances bequeathed by fifteen years of lees ageing.
Simon Field MW, Champagne Buyer

I tasted the 1998, alongside the 1996 and was surprised to find myself preferring the 1998. A vivid and lively champagne, the 1998 Krug was remarkable approachable. The typical notes of brioche, white apples and apple strudel on the nose followed seamlessly onto the palate. On the palate layer upon layer of flavours ranging from crisp apples to roasted hazelnuts and minerally chalkiness gently developed into a noticeably long finish with a touch of smoke. Very impressive.

Champagne from 1998 has, over the last couple of years, been re-appraised in an upwards direction. What was always seen as very good year is now regarded as excellent. The wines are ripe, not overly ripe, fleshy but with structure to repay cellaring. Dom Ruinart have produced one of the very best.

Elegance abounds, the nose is of citric fruit with notes of freshly cut bread and Spring flowers to the fore. On the palate the wine is long, its stone fruit beautifully balanced by hints of bergamot and honey. Finesse with quiet power, this is an archetype of Grand Cru Chardonnay from the very best vineyards of the Cte Des Blancs.

Since 2014 Dom Pérignon has no longer been using the term oenothèque for its late-release Champagnes, but the word Plenitude. This style represents Dom Pérignon champagne that is left in contact with its lees and does not evolve in a linear fashion, but ages in a series of stages, producing “windows of opportunity, or plenitudes” when the Champagne can be disgorged and released to bring consumers a different expression of the same vintage.

There are three plenitudes in the life of a given vintage: the first plenitude spans between seven to eight years after the vintage, which is when Dom Pérignon Vintage is released, while the second one arrives between 12 and 15 years – which was previously the first oenothèque release, but from now will be branded as P2. The third window comes after around 30 years, when the Champagne has spent more than 20 years on its lees, which will now be termed as P3.

For a 16 year old wine this is very youthful in appearance and certainly belies its age. The nose is very well endowed with sweet yellow fruit and as intense a shortbread and brioche character as I’ve seen in any mature Champagne for years. This concentration continues onto the palate where it is elegant yet rigorous and well proportioned. There is a notable and refreshing salinity immediately on the front of the palate which tapers all the way through to the finish. The finish, as with all Dom Perignon is firm and long. This would make a wonderful match for Scallops & Lardo di Colonnata.
Gary Owen, Private Account Manager

This is a very stylish wine which (as usual) has gained a lot by the deferred disgorgement. This is a velvety, mineral-embossed aristocrat that sounds loud and clear like a symphony by Dvôrak"
Richard Juhlin, Champagneclub.com -  95/100 points

For the second plenitude (P2), we’re looking for the peak of energy, intensity and vibrancy, showing the wine in high-definition.
Richard Geoffroy, Dom Perignon, Chef de Cave

This exquisite Champagne will age for decades to come, but why deny yourself the sumptuous, yeasty fruit and vanilla pod aromas now?

"...While I don't doubt this wine will age perfectly for twenty years, it is disarmingly delicious right now.... It is the most forward vintage for years and it is stunning."
(Matthew Jukes - The Wine List 2006 - The Top 250 Wines Of The Year)