Taittinger’s 2004 Brut Comtes de Champagne Rosé is showing brilliantly, bursting from the glass with an expressive bouquet that mingles aromas of rhubarb compote, red plums and spices with notions of dried white flowers, pastry cream and toasted brioche. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, broad and vinous, with impressive depth and chalky structure, succulent acids and a long, precise finish.
While the 2004 Comtes Rosé is drinking beautifully today, it is evolving comparatively slowly by the standards of this classically balanced but somewhat rapidly evolving vintage, and it should offer immense pleasure for the better part of two decades.
Drink 2017 - 2035
William Kelley, Wine Advocate (August 2019)
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay (100% from grand cru vineyards). 8 years' ageing on lees before disgorgement. Dosage 10 g/l.
Aroma of Victoria plums and a touch of spice and cedar. Very powerful – the power almost overrides the flavour, but there is also great tension and a fine structure. Bold and needs time.Drink 2018 - 2026
Julia Hardin MW, jancisrobinson.com (July 2014)
About this WINE
Taittinger is one of the few family-owned independent Champagne houses in Reims. It produces a very classy Non-Vintage blend and complex Vintage Champagnes as well.
Its top Champagne is Comtes De Champagne - first produced in 1952, it is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes from 6 Grand Cru sites in the Côte de Blancs. This is finely aromatic, rich, creamy Blanc de Blancs at its best, though patience is required as the wine should not be approached for at least ten years.
Rosé wines are produced by leaving the juice of red grapes to macerate on their skins for a brief time to extract pigments (natural colourings). However, Rosé Champagne is notable in that it is produced by the addition of a small percentage of red wine – usually Pinot Noir from the village of Bouzy – during blending.
Which grapes are included in the blend, and their proportion, is one of the key factors determining the style of most Champagnes. Three grapes are used - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
26% of vineyards in Champagne are planted with Chardonnay and it performs best on the Côtes des Blancs and on the chalk slopes south of Epernay. It is relatively simple to grow, although it buds early and thus is susceptible to spring frosts. It produces lighter, fresher wines than those from Burgundy and gives finesse, fruit and elegance to the final blend. It is the sole grape in Blancs de Blancs, which are some of the richest long-lived Champagnes produced.
Pinot Noir accounts for nearly 40% of the plantings in Champagne and lies at the heart of most blends - it gives Champagne its body, structure, strength and grip. It is planted across Champagne and particularly so in the southern Aube district.
The final component is Pinot Meunier and this constitutes nearly 35% of the plantings. Its durability and resistance to spring frosts make the Marne Valley, a notorious frost pocket, its natural home. It ripens well in poor years and produces a soft, fruity style of wine that is ideal for blending with the more assertive flavours of Pinot Noir. Producers allege that Pinot Meunier lacks ageing potential, but this does not deter Krug from including around 15% of it in their final blends.