2010 White Burgundy

Caroline l’Estimé (née Gagnard) has been ploughing her vineyards since 2000 to avoid the use of herbicides and switched to full organic farming from 2010 with certification beginning from 2011. Noted soil scientist Claude Bourguigon is consulting. The 2010s were picked quickly (not many grapes alas) between 21st and 24th September, with any rot resulting from the famous storm having dried out or turned noble.

Production has recently moved to a new facility on the outskirts of Beaune, which is making life much easier for the Roche de Bellene team. The philosophy stays the same: work with excellent grape sources and get the wines out into the market at competitive prices. The reds have had an excellent following for many a year now, while recently the whites have shown the same impressive price to quality ratio that makes this such a good address.

The brand new winery is now fully up and running which will make life much easier for Benoît and Jean-Baptiste Bachelet who used to make their wine in a series of ramshackle cellars scattered around the hamlet of Gamay. The basic principles remain the same however. The wines see very little new wood and spend two winters in barrel, before being racked into tank in the spring and bottled in June or July of the second summer which is several months later than most producers. These are fine and stylish wines.

The wizard of the Mâconnais has produced a great range of wines in 2010 from his 14 hectare domaine, supplemented by some purchased grapes from certain appellations such as Pouilly-Fuissé. There are few more reflective and meticulous producers in the Mâconnais than the Merlins, who form a great partnership with Olivier’s nervous energy supported by Corinne’s unflagging calm.

The old order changeth slowly at Maison Louis Jadot. Veteran winemaker Jacques Lardire is still very much in charge, but his eventual successor Frdric is starting to play a more prominent role. Dont expect a revolution, but a little evolution is doubtless possible. The acidity of 2010 very much suits the Jadot white wine style, while their fullish extraction of Pinot Noir has worked notably well in several red cuves such as the Volnay, Clos de la Barre which we have selected for the first time this year. Where the wines come from one of the various Jadot domaines we supply the relevant information in brackets.

The domaine is thriving in the hands of three generations: Michel Niellon himself, his son-in-law Michel Coutoux and his grandson Mathieu. They had their work cut out with the storm which ravaged the Chassagne-Santenay border in September 2010, but fortunately only the village wine was much affected, with a significantly reduced yield. They began picking the Grand Crus on 16th September and the domaine is also benefitting from its new facilities being close to the town of Chagny.

The former Domaine René Manuel has been purchased by investors, the vineyards being split between Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Domaine Roulot while Dominique Lafon himself has moved production of his own label wines to the Manuel cellars in Meursault, as well as gaining some Bourgogne Blanc vines. Though Dominique operates officially under the status of negociant, all the wines are domaine grown and bottled except the Bourgogne Blanc, which will be next year.

Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau started picking early on 17th September in 2010, continuing over the following nine days as the vineyards ripened. His wines maintain their traditional status as excellent value for money, while the move to his new cellars two years ago has improved the consistency of the range and purity too. The aromatics of this 2010 vintage remind Jean-Baptiste of 2002, but perhaps with greater flesh.

Philippe Prost, long-time winemaker at Bouchard Pre & Fils, is less flamboyant than his veteran opposite number at Jadot, but he still has firm opinions and he knows the detail of all his vineyard sites inside out. He clearly prefers his 2010 whites to the previous vintage, though we rather liked those too, while the fresh finish of the vintage has brought his excellent 2010 reds to life.

Antoine Jobard started picking on Sunday 19th September and hurried through so as to finish before the rains, announced for the following Friday, arrived. The wines have the same concentration as in François Jobard’s time but a greater purity. There is little emphasis on new oak, with an average of 20% new barrels across the range, leaving the wines to speak for themselves. Everything was fully ripe in 2010 but nothing exceeded 13.3% alcohol, so the balance is certainly there.

Benjamin Leroux has managed to produce almost as much wine in 2010 as he did in 2009. Some of his grape contracts were short because of the low crop in 2010, but he has been able to compensate with some new sources of supply. 2010, Benjamin’s fourth vintage, looks to be a great success in both colours here. Included in this selection is a cuvée of Volnay Santenots from the Hospices de Beaune whose élévage we entrusted to Benjamin.

Benjamin Leroux has managed to produce almost as much wine in 2010 as he did in 2009. Some of his grape contracts were short because of the low crop in 2010, but he has been able to compensate with some new sources of supply. 2010, Benjamin’s fourth vintage, looks to be a great success in both colours here. Included in this selection is a cuvée of Volnay Santenots from the Hospices de Beaune whose élévage we entrusted to Benjamin.

Arnaud Ente is always one of the first to pick. His meticulous vineyard work and low yields encourage early ripeness, so in 2010 he could start on 15th September. The yield is much the same as 2008 and Arnaud notes similar acidity readings, but with much more flesh on the palate and finer aromatics. The label has also been fine-tuned this year and is now exceptionally handsome. Overall, these are breath-taking wines.

Arnaud Ente is always one of the first to pick. His meticulous vineyard work and low yields encourage early ripeness, so in 2010 he could start on 15th September. The yield is much the same as 2008 and Arnaud notes similar acidity readings, but with much more flesh on the palate and finer aromatics. The label has also been fine-tuned this year and is now exceptionally handsome. Overall, these are breath-taking wines.

Arnaud Ente is always one of the first to pick. His meticulous vineyard work and low yields encourage early ripeness, so in 2010 he could start on 15th September. The yield is much the same as 2008 and Arnaud notes similar acidity readings, but with much more flesh on the palate and finer aromatics. The label has also been fine-tuned this year and is now exceptionally handsome. Overall, these are breath-taking wines.

After several years surrounded by building works, David Croix now has a smart new cellar to play with, as well as the three new vineyards from the hill of Corton which arrived just in time for the 2009 vintage. This year all the vineyard work has been done by Davids own team which has made a difference. It is a beautiful range of wines overall, everything delivering just a little bit more than the appellations suggest. The Beaunes were picked from September 21st to the 23rd, the Cortons the following week.

Arnaud Ente is always one of the first to pick. His meticulous vineyard work and low yields encourage early ripeness, so in 2010 he could start on 15th September. The yield is much the same as 2008 and Arnaud notes similar acidity readings, but with much more flesh on the palate and finer aromatics. The label has also been fine-tuned this year and is now exceptionally handsome. Overall, these are breath-taking wines.