Stéphane Usseglio, Raymond’s son, now runs this 30-hectare estate. It is managed biodynamically, and his vineyards are divided equally between the galet-strewn parcels around Orange and Courthézon, and the sandier, chalkier soils heading south towards the Crau plateau and the village of Bédarrides. Two-thirds of the vineyards fall within the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. His wines are now every bit as good as his distant cousins at Domaine Pierre Usseglio, and are steadily receiving more attention – yet they remain excellent value. Stéphane continues to innovate, using small oak barrels alongside the traditional foudres, and experimenting with concrete and terracotta amphorae. His 2019 wines have the power and concentration you might expect from such a warm vintage, but enough clarity of fruit to ensure balance and, no doubt, longevity.