Wines in the Press

The producer behind our own-label Australian Shiraz, Elderton, is run by the Ashmead family (currently Allister and Cameron). The winery is located on the banks of the Barossa Valley`s North Para River, just outside the town of Nuriootpa. The fruit is drawn from 31 hectares of high-quality vineyards in the Barossa Valley. Aged between 40 and 102 years old, coupled with minimal irrigation, the vines produce rich, concentrated fruit showing off classic varietal flavours.

Barossa Shiraz is all about texture: smooth, chocolate-rich liquid that glides across the palate. This is a prime example of the style but incorporates an added lift of crunchy red fruit, bringing a welcome freshness to this very drinkable wine.

Domenic Torzi and Tracy Matthews were going to grub up their Frost Dodger Riesling vineyard – until we persuaded them to continue making the wine, exclusively for the Berry Bros. & Rudd Own Selection range. Our Buyer Catriona Felstead MW has worked closely with them to create this thrilling Eden Valley Riesling.

Aromas and flavours of classic lime fruit move through to a peach-stone core and are followed by an immaculate, wet-stone finish. The real beauty of this wine, however, lies in its impressive weight and texture, which combines with a porcelain freshness, invigorating the palate. This is a fantastic example of what Eden can achieve and is also a thoroughly refreshing wine.

Our best-selling wine for many decades, GOC, as it is known, brilliantly highlights the sheer drinkability of modern red Bordeaux. The wine is made for us by Dourthe, which owns several leading châteaux, but most importantly is brilliant at blending fruit from around the region to create undeniably classic styles of red and white Bordeaux.

Bright, medium ruby in colour, with a siren-like nose of black cherries, bramble fruit and wood smoke, it is instantly appealing. The palate follows through with delicious, juicy, black fruit and a long, velvety finish. Equally at home with a weekday supper or a grand Sunday roast, it is the perfect wine for all occasions.

Made for us by Andrea Mantengoli of La Serena, whose vineyards are located on Montalcino’s eastern flank, this is an example of true Brunello at its best. Stylistically La Serena’s wines echo those of its neighbours, such as the more celebrated Cerbaiona next door. The wines display a great drinkability even when young, all while respecting the identity of their piece of Montalcino terroir.

Bright in appearance, with ripe red cherry and herbal aromas on the nose. The palate is ripe and poised, with fresh acidity that adds definition to the mid-palate. As is characteristic of this wine, the tannins are finely wrought.

Made for us by Davide Rosso, this Barolo offers classic Nebbiolo character and structure. Since first bottling his family’s Serralunga d’Alba fruit in the late 1990s, Davide has rightly gained a reputation as one of the region’s finest (Nebbiolo) winemakers. He may not have the name or history of some of his famous neighbours but perhaps as a result he’s further incited to prove himself. That he is surely doing, with a range of peerless Serralunga Baroli, traditionally and expertly made.

The fine yet densely packed tannins are enveloped in scented cherry and cranberry fruit, with florals that hint at dried violets. The opulent texture is balanced by refreshing, racy acidity and a core of chalky minerals. Accessible and seductive, this is a pleasure to drink now, but the sophistication, refinement and concentration will allow it to age further in bottle. It will benefit from being decanted.

The Oremus wine estate has a long and colourful history, with Tokaji being produced there as early as 1620 by a Calvinist priest called Mate Szepsy Lacko. In 1993, the 33-hectare estate was bought by a Spanish consortium headed by David Álvarez, the owner of Vega Sicilia. The aim at Oremus is to produce Tokaji wines of elegance and balance with perfect harmony between the sweet fruit and natural acidity.

The 2011 vintage has yielded a more elegant and floral interpretation of this Tokaji Aszú wine. The nose has notes of orange blossom and peach, interspersed with honeysuckle and acacia. The palate is beautifully poised with the trademark acidity acting as counterpoint to the noble-rot sweetness. The long finish is fresh and vibrant.

The re-emergence of Ferraton as a great producer has taken awhile, and for a year or so I felt that the quality of the wines actually merited greater plaudits than those hitherto garnered. That changed with the 2009s when a commentator who shall remain nameless, offered lavish praise, a praise which I suspect is equally merited with the excellent range of 2010s.Damien Brisset has some very well located vines and is now exploiting their potential with real skill.